Look at it as 500 points, not money value. Safety equipment costs no points, but performance parts do. Lemons and Chumpcar are nice to have. This gives ppl with smaller budgets the chance to do endurance racing on great tracks. Only other way without this would be becoming a pro driver, and good luck with that.

I wanted to race karts when I was very young, but my mom would not let me. That was the end of my dream to be pro driver.

Karting is fun, but not same as taking corner on real track at high speeds, going down straightaway at 120-150 mph, and breaking at that speed hoping brakes never fail.

You aren't really putting yourself at risk of serious injury or death karting. The adrenaline rush is not as good.

Building your own car and parts, then using that car to beat cars people tell you isn't possible is also an amazing feeling karting doesn't give you.

You also don't get the elevation changes karting like you do on real tracks, or having to take blind corners or crests.

 

yep, not too many ways out there to get 3 days in a row (20 hours) of track time at a place like Laguna Seca unless you have deep pockets...good example of your elevation changes...I had no idea there was that much elevation change until we pulled up to the track...tv and playstation do not do it justice. (and we won 2 of the three days-that makes it that much sweeter)

 

You must be referring to USA. I'm referring to world karting where they use regular circuits since they have 250cc etc.

Bro, no way man. I have said kart w/a Honda 250. It's a Tony Kart Mitox shifter kart & it will do well over 100.

Been there. I've been building every car I've owned & I'm now 41 so I get bro.
You are right.
Having said that, I'm just saying (once again this is MY opinion only) that I prefer karting b/c when using rentals (not mine) you can grab a bunch of buddies (some of whom don't have fun cars like us but can drive) & have a freaking blast racing wheel to wheel at about 60+mph. True, half the speed we talked about but being on the ground on a kart literally grabbing distance w/a buddy is siiiick & feels faster than what you are actually doing.

This is just me dude. I get it about racing cars. I'd love to be in a 919 Hybrid hitting the Dunlop Curves. I get it.
Just depends on the track.

Dude, this is in NO way a bash on what any of you prefer to do. Like I said, racing is racing & it's f*cking killer what we all do around here. I was just throwing it out there about a sometimes forgotten way to bust a nut w/some speed, that is all. I did not mean to offend anybody while doing what we all love which is going fast!

On another note ... it's Friiiiidayyyy!

 

upper ball joints just arrived along with radius arm bushings...I am goinG to 'clock' the pressed in section slightly to give a small amount of positive caster when I add camber.....got a seat today as well

 

also got a 'new to me' rad...it s from a nissan sentra spec -v but the dimensions are the same just need a custom (read-find one out in the yard) upper hose as the top hose position is off a couple inches

 

I'm shocked at the pictures but impressed by the level of dedication to weight removal. I've raced only stock supercars, but this level of detail is truly a herculean effort.


Kudos sir. subscribed as well

 

figured while I was playing with the rad I might as well put in the cooler t-stat and fan switch.....got the clutch slave on the bench-tomorrows project-pull out the dampening valve

 

rad is in!...perfect size...lower locating pins off about an inch...a little zip disc work on the lower tie bar and it fits in snug..."custom" rad hoses needed...2009 chevy malibu hoses fit nice with a little trimming...needed to use the nissan fan (removed 1-just running a single)

threw in the plug I picked up while I was at it.

Clutch dampener and check valve removed...just need to bleed it out fully and then on to other projects

yesterdays suspension project complete as well...glad I yanked it all apart, right lower ball joint was completely toast, torn boot from who knows when was probably the culprit

 

2005 dodge hemi durango tranny cooler now mounted in place to keep the power steering happy...bumper going back on...shoul look like a real car again tomorrow

 

new header just arrived...$145 shipped...how can they make this stuff so cheap??...might not give me the world beating performance increase a big $$ header would, chrome might discolor quicker as well...internal welds were cleaned up pretty nicely and welds look good...hopefully fit is ok...it has the bend for the 6spd mount...all gaskets ect...whole package only weighs 23 pounds...should at least take some weight off the front end

 

Which headers are those and where did you get them, that's a great price?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/120775387355?_trksid=p2060353.m2763.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
fingers crossed

 

Heavy appreciation for making that Koyorad fit my dude

 

took a break from working on the CL this week...took the old civic down to Pacific Raceways in Seattle for a double-7 endurance race...small field but the old girl took home 3rd on a roll-over plagued weekend

 

Congrats, cool trophy.

 

W00t!! Good job!

Siiick trophy!

 

Congrats, have you posted pics of the civic?

 

Is there any good DIY header install threads for our cars? I have been searching but cant find Sh*t.. Would love to know where you got such a good deal on those headers also haha

 

really???.....ok...
this was at Laguna Seca last July (we won 2 of the 3 days in this jalopy-funny watching the guys in the mustangs and bmws watching you pick up your trophies)

 

when I tackle it I will try to post up some pictures as I go (I hope they fit)

 

Congrats on the race. I have wanted to build a low buck race car for some time now.

How close was the fit of the radiator? I've been looking for an aluminum up grade for my TL. Did you ever see if the MDX calipers fit?

 

MDX calipers are a no-go for sure...it was worth a shot.....

the koyo rad for the 02-06 sentra spec-v has the same overall dimensions...hoses are on size larger so I used a double gear clamp at the engine...nothing will get by them...hoses are a but odd but 2009 malibu with 4 cyl is what I used...pisser tube points to the right instead of the left-loop a longer hose....hardwired in the sentra fans-easy peasy...only right lower peg lines uo with rad support...slot the left peg hole and the rad will drop right in...top mounting pegs line up perfect

 

The link you gave for the header states that it does NOT fit the 6-speed, but it looks like one side header has the "kink" to clear the motor mount. Is this true?

 

has the kink for sue...hopefully it will be enough to clear...if not the amount of grinding required should be at the least minimal...going to be a while before i get to put them on unfortunately.

 

Also, did you start with a CLS6? I read that they didn't have he clutch slave check valve. If my CLS6 has this I'll be removing it shortly - I've always wondered why the clutch never seems to engage quickly.

 

yap...is factory cls6...I did as the little tutorial of the check valve removal showed and sure enough there is a little plastic restrictor in there...tossed it over my shoulder...also removed the dampener in line...over the shoulder...clutch feels the same...hopefully on the track it will last longer from a more instant grab and release...have to wait and see

 

abs unit off


6.1 lb off the nose

new prop valve in place...only .1 lb....just need to build a little bracket to support it...a little more will be shed when prop valve under master gets eliminated.....I want it to be my fault if the wheels lock/don't lock not some computer controlled valving system

 

Looking good. You could free up some hp and shed weight with an underdrive crank pulley. Ralco I believe makes one for pretty cheap.

 

the underdrive pulley on ebay is less than $50

i cant find mine but here is a cheap one
I could tell the car reved better even with a auto
OBX Underdrive Crank pulley 99-03 Acura TL CL V6 Blue - Mega Tuning

 

found mine
Underdrive Crank Pulley Fits Honda Accord 98 02 Acura CL 97 02 V6 3 0L Silver | eBay

 

I have that exact one on the car...can't really see it in the pics....new brake rotors are standing by...about to put in an order with Portefield brakes for some raybestos st-43 compound pads....amazing stuff,but pricey...one thing I don't skimp on is safety-and being able to stop is safety

 

Would be interested to see stopping distance differences with and without ABS. How are you dealing with deleting prop valve and connecting lines?

Am thinking running Carbotech XP8 on all corners might not be best. Wonder if rear brakes get up to temp enough or if I'd be better running something more like EBC yellows in rear. What do you think my rear end squirming under brakes is from? Thinking Brake pads, weight distribution, aero, or maybe that is how Honda brakes are.

Watched video of new civic type R vs Megane and driver complained about rear end squirm under braking for Honda.

Will you be running halo seat, window net, neck restraint system, 6 point harness, and fire suppression system?

I would run those, but then I'd have to wear helmet etc. driving on street and visibility would be bad.

 

using steel flare-flare connectors...car is not DOT but I know they will work fine...integra prop valve should be fine to deal with the front/rear balance...works for them, CL just has bigger brakes front and rear....should require similar balance...actually will probably run ST42 compound in the rear-a little less bite,more progressive. Our civic runs a different compound in the rear to compensate for the lighter back end under braking...we try to do our braking before the corners and roll into the turns otherwise the potential for a snap loose rear end is very possible...harder to do in autocross when the corners are so close together.

we have a Cobra Sebring halo seat in the civic we may be moving over... visibility is not the best but the safety and comfort level is excellent...in our racing it really isn't the issue of the driver to worry about what is behind them and trying to pass...it is more important to race your race and hold your line...it is up to the passing car to ensure they can make the pass safely.....that said we might use the sparco seat that I posted a couple weeks ago...it is lighter..both of us drivers use a hans with a 5 point harness

 

Will you be running a Brake bias setup with knob by driver? I want to do this, but not sure what all is involved. Need to do more research.

I've had my rear end snap loose and spun 3 times at autocross. 2 of those 3 I blame on the rear sway bar being preloaded to one side.

On track I just did braking in a straight line, then turn in. My car is very predictable and confidence inspiring.

What are your thoughts on trail braking fwd car?

 

we don't currently run an adjustable brake bias control...we are allowed with in the rules and they are cheap enough but it isn't something I really played with ....we may be leaving something on the table by not using what is within the rules....I prefer to landmark for braking zones (probably impossible on an autocross but after a few laps on a road course you get to know the zones-and typically they stay the same year after year,weather dependent) and use the throttle to make the turns ...keep in mind that the corners are much more progressive (although faster) than a typical autocross, as you found on your track day.... think that is why you can get away with less spring and sway bar..the weight shift/transfer is not so immediate and the body roll actually helps the tire limitations we have

 

headers wrapped

 

Nice, need to wrap or coat mine still.

Seems like you can release brakes before turn in, trail Brake to apex to try and shift weight to front tires, or Brake early and use throttle around corner (was watching Jackie stewart movie where he explained this technique, but seems more suited to rwd cars to me).

At autocross, I try to just jab the brakes right before turn in to transfer weight to front.

 

header I picked up on e-bay that I posted up a while ago is on!...it fits for the manual car BUT....very tight...too tight for it to be wrapped and fir without some dinking around....dream fit for these would be-no wrap and if the exhaust studs on the head were 1/4" shorter then the rear header would slide right on....stil that said there is alot of crap on the back side of the engine that makes it 'uncomfortable' to do the install-lots of knicks and cuts reaching down behind the motor.

ground a bit off the mount to make it easier and realistically, if you remove the rear bracket and THEN put the header on and replace the bracket it would be an easier fit.

I removed the front and rear engine dampers and brackets as I am welding the mounts solid, no need for this stuff (will scale them later for an accurate savings).

with this header, I would recommend (I am going to do it)...replace the rear flange on the j-pipe if you arer doing a custom exhaust...it is restrictive as it reduces down the pipe size to bolt up to the factory catalyst...I will be hacking it off and welding a larger flange over the outside diameter of the pipe and then running straight pipe with 2 large glasspacks back-to-back










tighten the j-pipe to header flange bolts a bit per bolt at a time or the flange will sit crooked and not crush the o-ring gasket properly like the picture above (loosened them off and retightened and all was good)
this is all I ground off the mount...not needed if you don't wrap header...all in all $145 well spent I think

 

8 more pounds that don't need to go back on...about 1 pound of plate and weld to take their place.....also building custom front mount that should be lighter than the factory oil filled thing

 

appears that the weight of the manis and j-pipe are a wash between stock and the header...23.1lb for the wrapped header and 23.8lb for the stock stuff....hopefully their will be enough of a power gain to make it worth while.