jipper

I only have 68k miles on my cls and the clutch has started slipping. If i understand correctly you have to pull the engine to install the clutch. I want to install the ct icebox and maybe headers. Are there any other mods or general maint. that should be done while they pull the engine?

jipper

oh yeah and i just bought it with 65k. How did the clutch fail at such low miles?

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

First off all i would check the clutch fluid and bleed it remove the check valve from slave cylinder and damper if that doesnt help there is no need to pull whole engine out to do this but i like that idea more than droping the tranny you can install the headers at the time and replace the engine mounts that tends to go this car. I would go with new Oem clutch and new oem flywheel if it has heat spots on it but if it slips then 100% it has them.

SimonCL-S6

What do you mean how did it fail obviously improper driving

jipper

Thats what you would think but 68k miles is pretty low for our clutches to fail huh.

ivan06106

Im on the process of putting a new clutch, i would be installing a new OEM Kit with a P2R 6 puck clutch, an the flywheel would be getting resurface.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Jacob went through a stock clutch in under 3k miles from never breaking it in. My brother had to replace his clutch in his 350z with only 2000 miles on car because he bought a manual without knowing how to drive it.

jipper

what is the benefit of a p2r 6puck clutch?

jipper

wow

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

You do not have to remove the engine. If you want to make an improvement though I would recommend installing an upgraded clutch though that can hold more torque and last longer. You can see some of the options on our website if interested. The most popular option would be the Clutchmaster's setup.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Its much much easier to remove the entire engine. You wont run the risk of hanging the tranny on the clutch disc and damaging it.

Get the rear main seal while its apart. Its a good time to clean up the engine bay if you choose to.

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

+1

I did clutch both ways and pulling the entire engine out is not that hard and you have plenty of room to do anything else. I prefer pulling entire engine out.

jipper

I will try this soon!

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

My first clutch was done at 65k but it was sliping the day i got it with 49k miles. Im pretty sure previous owner didnt know how to drive it... Second clutch was still good at 114k but i decided to replace it anyway since i had to swap the transmission. Few members got over 200k on the clutch so its the way you drive it

A418t81

iTrader: (1)

I replaced my stock clutch and flywheel with another stock setup all around. Mine was only slipping on full throttle, redline shifts. It turns out the dual mass flywheel had failed and the support springs on the inner friction disc had fallen away on 1/2 of the inner plate. The clutch was basically only engaging on one half of the flywheel. The factory original clutch and PP looked fantastic, but I already had the parts so I replaced everything.

Just a note on aftermarket clutch setups. I've had a lot of modded cars, many needing upgraded clutches and not a SINGLE one of them has ever driven just like stock. There has ALWAYS been some small (or not so small) annoyance. If you are looking to keep it stock, or just bolt-ons...factory all the way.

jipper

yea i just want to do intake, headers, & maybe (Cat back, TB spacers, light weight pulley). From what I have read I think I will stick with stock clutch.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Definitely do the lw pulley.

A418t81

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I have headers and an intake on my car. Perfectly happy with my setup. BTW, I just noticed you are in Mobile. I lived down there for 4 years while I was in med school.

jipper

nice. what headers did you go with?