A bit dissapointed, best run of the day was 14.485 @ 98.30 with a 2.300 60ft

Mods at the time are AEM CAI, XS Header, UR SS Pulleys, 2.5in Catback and a AFC tune with the NEO.

I think my 60ft is messing my times up, is 2.3 about right?

Track veterans please chime in, im brake torquing at 2k with practically no spin just grabbing, gateshifting at 7000rpm.

 

hmmm

 

is that it? LOL hmmmmm

 

try no brake torqueing. i always felt that worked better in my few runs at the track.

 

If you don't brake torque you dont get that big of a jump... btw my trap is 98.3mph, I should be running 14.1-14.2 with a trap that high right?

 

2.3 is bad. Lower that 60 & your times will improve. Your exhaust may also be robbing the car of low end power.

 

I know they will improve but I have no idea how to get a better 60ft, my launches were perfect? I stalled at 2k and barely spun at the launch, 1st gear felt so long even though I had it to the floor.... like my car has no torque AT ALL!

Another thing that is bugging the shit out of me is my transmission, the previous owner said it was replaced by one of his friends at the Acura dealership so I assume that I have the new PCM that is less aggressive and that was robbing me of my power but I called the local Acura dealership and they said it has never been changed before...... I WANT MY OLD PCM BACK! even my dyno numbers seem low hinting that my car isn't making the power that it should from the factory... what to do...

 

maybe the rims are slowing you down? you still ran decent though having an auto, and basic boltons. definately wouldnt torque brake your car though. it makes the tranny go crrrrazy...lol...try just gunning it with the vsa off and sport shift and see what happens

 

meh torque breaking seems the most efficient though... gunning it at a stop with VSA off = 3 second 60ft times.

 

exactly.
dont gun it.

 

i always stalled it to 3K... BTW zero wheel spin is required for the optimal run... ive done 1.9 60's on street tires

 

6spd typeR? what mods 1.9 is crazy, my buddies evo8 gets 1.8

And I wasn't gunning it at the launch until I knew that the tires grabbed.

 

try to re-tune,maybe they did not do their job right?

 

Nah they did, dyno sheets prove it. Theres not very much they can do tuning with a AFC.

 

Track & weather come into play as well. What pressure were your tires at? & what size/brand are they? Those 18's may be slowing you down if they weigh a lot. Just cause they are SSR copies don't mean they have the same SSR weight(light)

 

Im running Bridgestone S0-3 Pole Positions 225/40/18 and the tire pressure was lowered after a few runs resulting in a .3 drop in time. Im not quite sure of the weight on these 18s, they are made by Exel though.

 

Well how do you think I feel running 14.3's with a 102.X trap Traction kills

Part of your problem is the sidewall stiffness and lack of flex. Those 40 sidewall tires wont get you down the track quicker, trya thicker sidewall on a smaller rim. Ther have been times on the street when I managed to launch well on 205 tires on 16" steelies, back when the tires were new

 

How about some 225/45/17s with some lighter rims? what do you guys think... im prepping for next season.

 

he's auto goofy...

He has a built 3.5L...check his sig in his profile.

 

how the hell can you get a 1.9 60ft with street tires... what tires exactly? tips please typeR

 

Yeah definitely don't do the VSA off and gun, that way is guaranteed suck. When I had the 3G TL, a couple times having fun with other people at stoplights I left the VSA on, gunned it, and as soon as I felt no hop or spin turned it off. That seemed to produce fairly quick and full traction launches...could be worth a try? In my opinion torque-braking seems to bog things down whether VSA is on or not.

 

typeR do you torque brake the 3.5L beast?

 

You really should be running 235-40-18 or 235-45-17 to keep your stock rolling diameter.
Those tires may be messing with your gearing a little.

 

Wow you're right I totally forgot about that, what about 225/50/17 or 225/45/18? thats still the stock rolling diameter right? 235 might not fit

 

Stock diameter for 215/50/17 = 25.46in
Closest to stock in a 18" wheel is 235/40/18 = 25.40in

or

225/45/18 = 25.97in

or

225/40/18 = 25.08in

Anything larger than stock (within 0.5in) is gonna throw your speedo off by about 1-1.5mph (larger diameter = speedo reading < actual speed)

 

FYI, the actual formula is:

[(cross section width x 0.aspect ratio) x 2 divided by 25.4] + wheel diameter = overall tire diameter in inches

 

Remember real word may differ since not all tires are the same.

 

235/45/17 toyo T1-S on the SSR comp 17/8 +48 flash stalled to 3K

 

God I miss those T1S tires
Stupid toyo

 

anyone try the T1-R

 

koni shocks and comptech springs will help w/the short times. ask steve or mattg for some driving lessons

 

weigh one of your tires. i'll bet they're pretty heavy.

 

Just get Nitto 555's or BF Goodrich KDW's

 

Think its time to add light weight tires/rims to the winter mod list.

 

use them only on track, NOT on street. lighter rims make your car unstable on turns during wet/winter season...

try brake torqueing around 3k. when you hear your tire peeling a bit, gently let go off the gas. Once you gain traction push the gas pedal to the metal...

street tires psi should be 28-32 at the F and 40psi at the back. depend how sticky. if you have coilovers, put the F&R on stiff and raise the back a tad.

 

so if this guy has a good launch with a good suspension what do you think he could run?

 

If I could get a 2.0 i'd be running a 13.9 easy, my trap is 98 mph

 

Most people don't know that you can end up with less HP/TQ on the lowend with headers. And adding even more exhaust capacity with a higher flow CAT and or backend exhaust system will hurt even more.

As far as power braking goes, every car is different, so you will have to play around with it. Sometimes you can end up loading up the plugs. When you power brake you are putting more fuel in to the cylinder that you would otherwise. Meaning for the same throttle position you have when power braking at 2000rpm, the engine rpms might actually be closer to 3000 or better.

I know this is how it worked when I built engines and raced years ago, so I don't know how much it applies to these engines.

Ruf

 

doubtful that you'll be running 2.0 60 foots w/o suspension mods.

 

When you say suspension mods do you bean a coilover setup on the stiffest setting? Im on S-Techs with stock shocks and my cars front end lifts up a decent amount on WOT.