CL 3.5

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Old 01-08-2001, 12:18 AM
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CL 3.5

I read somewhere there was a CL with a 3.5 L engine. Whats this about, and where do i find out about them.
Old 01-08-2001, 12:20 AM
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impossible right?cause 3.5L engine is not so powerful than our type s engine...

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Old 01-08-2001, 12:24 AM
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its not impossible. It would not be as fast as the CL-S. But better then the regualar. Think if they came out with a 3.5L CL-S
Old 01-08-2001, 03:08 AM
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the RL has a 3.5L motor in it...to make our motor that big you'd have to bore the cylinders and increase the stroke...it would prolly be more expensive than it's worth though...

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Old 01-08-2001, 03:12 AM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Astroboy:
the RL has a 3.5L motor in it...to make our motor that big you'd have to bore the cylinders and increase the stroke...it would prolly be more expensive than it's worth though...

</font>

Hey Astroboy, whats your 1/4 mile in your 911?

Old 01-08-2001, 03:14 AM
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no idea till spring when I get to track it...but be sure that I'll let you guys know

my mechanics car runs in the 10's though



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1996 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo: H&R Springs and sways, Bilstein shocks
Old 01-08-2001, 11:29 AM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Astroboy:
the RL has a 3.5L motor in it...to make our motor that big you'd have to bore the cylinders and increase the stroke...it would prolly be more expensive than it's worth though...

</font>
Right up my alley.

Well first of all, the RL engine is a C35, not much in common with a J32. The best way to achieve 3.5 Liters is to borrow parts from the MDX, which is a J35, much the same with our J32's. The bore is exactly the same, 89 mm. But the stroke is increased significantly. Which would mean Honda changed the rods and the crank to achieve the extra .3 liters displacement.

The Price of an MDX crank from Acura Parts is $500 and some change. (Be thankful, and Integra GSR crank is a Grand) And I forget how much each rod is, its not too terribly much, BUT the worst part is the install. Getting to the bottom end of the engine is no simple task by any means. I would guess at LEAST $500 in labor if not up to $1000.

Also don't forget that your redline will DROP because of the increased inertia the pistons have to overcome to change direction. Since the rod is longer, it has to move farther, thus faster. But not as fast as it once could because it had shorter travel... if you can picture that.

But the benefit is having your very high tech high compression head, with dual stage intakes and having a considerably more low end torque (provided by the higher displacement).

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Old 01-08-2001, 11:52 AM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by F=ma:
Right up my alley.
But the benefit is having your very high tech high compression head, with dual stage intakes and having a considerably more low end torque (provided by the higher displacement).

</font>

so you think it might be viable to do this Kenny?

I'm not sure if I would brefer more low end torque or more hp up high though...I think for me I'd rather have some more top end HP but that would certainly be more expensive I imagine...




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1996 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo: H&R Springs and sways, Bilstein shocks
Old 01-08-2001, 12:58 PM
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Robb, I think that its an interesting route to consider, though I dont think I would do it myself. A racy engine is a high revving engine with the way that ours are setup. I'd just be patient with modding the car. We'll have more options soon enough.

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Old 01-08-2001, 08:41 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by F=ma:
I'd just be patient with modding the car. We'll have more options soon enough.

</font>
I sure hope so



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1996 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo: H&R Springs and sways, Bilstein shocks
Old 01-08-2001, 11:32 PM
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Some food for thought,the MDX has a 3.5 litre engine and it's based on the TL/CL engine and drivetrain.Some parts swapping anyone?????

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1992 mazda Miata lowered with Eibach springs KYB AGX adjustable struts Sparco racing buckets 4 point safety harnesses Momo steering wheel lo profile headlite system with PIAA superwhite bulbs Custom audio system Custom gauges Jackson racing supercharger with header and Greddy cat back exhaust and a ton of other stuff 2000 Honda Civic on APEX coilovers Full Alpine Audio system factory fogs with Piaa bulbs Catz ZETA headlamp system tinted custom taillites and on and on
Old 01-09-2001, 12:22 AM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Jens Heydel:
Some food for thought,the MDX has a 3.5 litre engine and it's based on the TL/CL engine and drivetrain.Some parts swapping anyone?????
</font>
Whats up man, nice Miata in the sig.

Check 4 posts before yours. The MDX is a J35A1, CL/TL engine is a J32

Heads are quite similar, Bottom end is somewhat different.

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Old 01-09-2001, 12:44 AM
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The sad truth is the MDX motor is a version of the Odessy MINIVAN (UGH) engine. I was afraid to admit it, but I to am a miata owner. I wish I could get the handling of my miata with the power of my CL-S. Has anyone else noticed a "push" condition with the CL. It seem to want to push out in right handed turns. Would lowering help? The problem seems to be no warning before handling limits are reached (JENS knows what I mean).

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Old 01-09-2001, 07:54 AM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by KyCl-S:
The sad truth is the MDX motor is a version of the Odessy MINIVAN (UGH) engine.
</font>
I hate to break this to you... but your CL-S engine is a version of the Odyssey engine. The Odyssey have a J-series powerplant. Accord V6's, Odyssey's, TL's, CL's, and MDX's all share J-series engines and the Global Midsize Platform. Surprise!

Oh and about your handling, do this, first find a set of springs and lower your car. (or coilovers) Then get a set of Suspension techniques front and rear adjustable swaybars. Set the front to soft and the rear to stiff. Now go try your car out. Take a turn too hard and you'll complain that it OVERsteers to much instead of understeers.

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Old 01-09-2001, 08:02 PM
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Kenny,
Have you tried these suspension mods? If so on what car, and with what results? What was the total investment in time and money, and was it worth it? The problem isn't so much the push as it is the lack of warnings at upper limits and too much isolation from handling feel.

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Old 01-09-2001, 08:47 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by KyCl-S:
Kenny,
Have you tried these suspension mods? If so on what car, and with what results? What was the total investment in time and money, and was it worth it? The problem isn't so much the push as it is the lack of warnings at upper limits and too much isolation from handling feel.

</font>
I put springs and 225/40's on at the same time, so I really don't know which had the effect, but the combined result was better road feel and more confidence over the mushy stock feel. Try it out for yourself. I would recommend coilovers, stiffen em up all the way, all-out handling baby.


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Old 01-10-2001, 06:50 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by F=ma:
I hate to break this to you... but your CL-S engine is a version of the Odyssey engine. The Odyssey have a J-series powerplant. Accord V6's, Odyssey's, TL's, CL's, and MDX's all share J-series engines and the Global Midsize Platform. Surprise!

Oh and about your handling, do this, first find a set of springs and lower your car. (or coilovers) Then get a set of Suspension techniques front and rear adjustable swaybars. Set the front to soft and the rear to stiff. Now go try your car out. Take a turn too hard and you'll complain that it OVERsteers to much instead of understeers.

</font>
Oh man, I gotta sell this thing right now. I HATE the Odysey. I figured the name said it all!

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Old 01-10-2001, 09:38 PM
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As a matter of design most cars seem to be designed to understeer at the very edge of adhesion,this is most most likely done I suppose as a safety measure.I say this only because the average driver when confronted with a loss of grip in a corner will hit the brakes,this in turn forces weight onto the front tires regaining some grip and then the driver can countersteer to correct the drift in the back.This is what most of us learned at driver ed.Granted a car that oversteers at the limit can be fun (Porsche Turbos where notorious for this in the early days) but for the average driver a car that understeers is the safer bet.If you feel that your car is suddenly losing adhesion try a different set of tires with more predictable characteristics at the limits of adhesion.This combined with the other suspension mods already listed should make the CL CL/S a considerably more capable machine.Remember Honda is a very conservative company and designs it's cars accordingly but with some well chosen suspension upgrades chasing down beemers should be easy much to the chagrin of their drivers.In a recent comparison test Between our CL and a BMW 330 our car did very well so a few tweaks here and there and that 330 would have been left panting in the dust.

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1992 mazda Miata lowered with Eibach springs KYB AGX adjustable struts Sparco racing buckets 4 point safety harnesses Momo steering wheel lo profile headlite system with PIAA superwhite bulbs Custom audio system Custom gauges Jackson racing supercharger with header and Greddy cat back exhaust and a ton of other stuff 2000 Honda Civic on APEX coilovers Full Alpine Audio system factory fogs with Piaa bulbs Catz ZETA headlamp system tinted custom taillites and on and on
Old 01-14-2001, 06:27 PM
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Kenny and Jens,
Thanks guys, I'll keep you posted. I want to get the handling right, THEN add power.

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