In case no one's paying attention to the other IMRC thread, MY ACTUATOR BROKE AGAIN!!
#1
hater
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Join Date: Jan 2001
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In case no one's paying attention to the other IMRC thread, MY ACTUATOR BROKE AGAIN!!
Only FOUR MONTHS and 5K miles after the first time, I'm driving a CL-P again.
Make actuator has failed for the second time now in 12 months of ownership.
I haven't spoken to my dealer yet, but will be calling first thing tomorrow. Fortunately, I was the first case at my dealership and subsequently had to *prove* the existence of the problem just like scalbert. I shouldn't have any problems getting it fixed a second time.
If you're feeling down on power, or your 1/4 mile times suck, CHECK YOUR GODDAMN ACTUATORS, KIDDOS!
------------------
'01 CL-S|Sundance Gold|Spoiler|35% Tint|Bridgestone Potenza RE730 225/45/17
a study in pimp daddy gold
![](http://www.acura-cl.com/ubb/wink.gif)
![](http://www.acura-cl.com/ubb/mad.gif)
If you're feeling down on power, or your 1/4 mile times suck, CHECK YOUR GODDAMN ACTUATORS, KIDDOS!
------------------
'01 CL-S|Sundance Gold|Spoiler|35% Tint|Bridgestone Potenza RE730 225/45/17
a study in pimp daddy gold
#2
Suzuka Master
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by droideka:
Only FOUR MONTHS and 5K miles after the first time, I'm driving a CL-P again.
Make actuator has failed for the second time now in 12 months of ownership.
I haven't spoken to my dealer yet, but will be calling first thing tomorrow. Fortunately, I was the first case at my dealership and subsequently had to *prove* the existence of the problem just like scalbert. I shouldn't have any problems getting it fixed a second time.
If you're feeling down on power, or your 1/4 mile times suck, CHECK YOUR GODDAMN ACTUATORS, KIDDOS!
</font>
Only FOUR MONTHS and 5K miles after the first time, I'm driving a CL-P again.
![](http://www.acura-cl.com/ubb/wink.gif)
![](http://www.acura-cl.com/ubb/mad.gif)
If you're feeling down on power, or your 1/4 mile times suck, CHECK YOUR GODDAMN ACTUATORS, KIDDOS!
</font>
Is the actuator dead in the sense that it:
a. Just doesn't move at all
b. Something wrong with the cable, interface, etc.
c. Did you get a test lamp in there, and verify that the unit was getting an actuation signal (+12, gnd), but has an internal fault
d. Any other tests -- I've followed the Helms and have traced the line from the PGM/ECU to the active pull-down (NPN transistor -- ground referenced, with collector connected to a pull-up resistor), but haven't had a look at the "module" they are using to drive the actuator (Did they make something too feeble to drive the actuator *or* with too little snubbing/back EMF protection?)
I'm curious in case I ever have to point the way for the dealer.
And some mechanics seem to need some extra help in the pointing department!
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Silver 2001 CL-S with NAVI
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- 9 coats of Zaino magic
[This message has been edited by EricL (edited 04-27-2001).]
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