well just recently my car started to idle at little werid. its hard to describe..but when my car is at a stop and i let go of the brake a little the car just shakes a goes away. this happens each time. anyone know what the problem is?

 

Oxygen sensor?

 

Did you try fuel injector cleaner? I had that happen to me six months ago... Used fuel injector which solved it...

 

could be a slight misfire, timing problem.

 

Spark plugs?

 

If it was a misfire, your CEL light would throw a code. Adjust your idle screw?

 

Try also shooting some Air Intake System Cleaner in the TB. This also might help.

 

Did anyone find a cure for this? My car has recently started doing this. IT's not a violent shake, but I can hear it and feel it. I just recently got the oil jet kit installed but my shifting is just fine, no slips or flares.

 

i'm guessing the sparkplugs, but to check if they are fading drive at a abt 60mph speed and barely press the gas down and if the acceleration shakes...and feels like a cutting off and on really fast...it will be the spark plugs...same thing w/ mine, but i jst dont want to change them until my 30K mile service

 

I agree with the person that siggested carbon build-up fixed by FI cleaner. Get some Techron (2-3 bottles at Costco for 9.97) and use it for 2-3 tanks in a row. It will smooth it out. I use it at every oil change. You'd be amazed how much carbon sits on the back of the intake valve after only 10k miles.

 

my car use to do this till I replaced the IACV

 

If your idle speed is fluctuating or surging, like mine does intermittently, it's probably a bad or dirty idle air control valve. Seems to be quite a common problem....

 

I have a SIMILAR problem...but not the same...

Whenever I start my car...after it has been sitting for usually the night, the car idles funny for a minute or two. The RPM's will go from 750...to like 900...down to like 600, back and forth, and the gauge lights fade in and out a little bit as the engine rpm's decrease. It almost sounds like the engine's exhausted after doing a long sprint or some shit? Any ideas?

 

Dem1K, you are describing exactly what mine does (although mine can do it any time it's idling, cold or warm), and I believe I have a dirty IAC valve. But, as I haven't found step by step instructions with photos on how to clean it, I haven't tackled it yet....

 

isn't it a pain in the ass? I feel like my car is going to die out

 

I agree with the idle air control valve however your ECu would throw a code. Is your check engine light on?

 

I have this exact problem. It doesnt happen all the time but its happening more frequently now. When ever i come to a complete stop whether at a stop light or in park, i get surging. When i pump the gas to try to smooth it out, it surges more and feels like its going to die. The RPM goes as low as like 100. From the AZ searching i've done, it seems like its the IAC valve.

I've know thers a screw that can adjust it, do i turn it clockwise or counterclock wise. Which way gives more air and vice versa? I recently just changed my oil and switch from dino to full synthetic iwth a bottle of Pro-Blend. Maybe somewho that threw the amount of air needed at idle off a bit? I mean i noticed the rough idle before but its more frequent and pronounced after the oil change. Or it has nothing to do with it and it just got worse with time.

Anyways, I found this thread also:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...+control+valve

but i dont want to replace it unless i have to. Where do i look to get one cheaper, most of the usual part sites dont carry this IAC valve. I checked ebay too.

Also, my maintanence required light (not the engine light) flashes on during the heavy surges.

TIA

 

I think I have the same problem. But my engine light is on.... just recently though. The idle issue has been about a couple of months now.

I think I will go replace the IAC valve now.

 

i just found a new tsb on this exact problem, published on july 6th 06.

it tells to replace the front lower engine mount (50800-S0K-A81) with a new part (50800-S0K-A82)

 

I briefly had a rough idle right problem right around the time the fuel refineries moved off of MTBE and over to 10% ethanol blending. The ethanol is a stronger solvent and can losen up old petroleum deposits in the fuel system. Mine cleared up by the next fill up. It hasn't happened since. The car's computer may also need time to make adjustments to the new fuel.

Might want to try fuel injector cleaner and replace the fuel filter. Just a suggestion... Seems more likely than an IAC valve epidemic.

 

its the oxygen sensor ive had mine go twice and i experieced all the same problems...it gets progressively worse for months before the cel comes on

 

yep. that IACV is one of those damned faulty parts for our cars.

 

That sucks, mine does it too =( It started to do it worse after I installed the CAI.

 

oh man, ditto. i had all that shit disconnected for awhile since i installed both the Icebox and TB spacers at the same time. right after installation, it pulled like a mother. but then after, it started getting a rough idle.

 

When I saw the list of things that are wrong with the car after I bought it, I was like

 

i have seen this type of problems one to many now, lots of thread regarding "rough idle, etc..." many posted their testimony here, but still without a direct answer i'm getting the same shit too. rough idle, hesitation and cutting off @ 5500RPM (i have 6spd.) i'll go to Autozone tomorrow morning for codes...hope to close this deal once and for all... i'll keep you guys posted.

 

yup, my IACV is shot. replaced it, and the car move again. thanks typeR and Cocoa for the info.

 

where is the idle control valve located inside the engine bay

 

it is attatched directly underneath thr throttle body. it is everything in the box under item #2 in the illustration below.

 

Thankyou

 

check out post " can you over rev a cls 6spd" for a real horror story. be careful with F. I. cleaner and rpms as you might be looking at a $4000. repair job.

 

How much to do the repair?

 

Bent valve in left head $3200 and some change to install new head ,replace anti freeze @oil. I hope this includes trouble shooting original problem of check engine light. I'm not getting any help from acura because acura of clevelands "expert" mechanic says so even without any codes on the ecm recorded. Acura of cleveland has only been here for about two years so i'm wondering if this "expert" has even worked on a 03 cls before. Hopefully they find the real problem in that price.