A while back I posted an article about a Comptech and H&R sport spring comparison. Following that I noticed many questions arose on the necessity of a camber kit.

In theory, any adjustment in suspension will throw off the camber or toe unless a correction kit is applied. What i noticed was that neither springs ever threw off the camber to the extent that one was needed.

The following picture was taken during a wheel rotation and is the tread of a 235/40/ZR18 Pirelli P7000 supersport.

- purchased new, COMPTECH SPRINGS ON AT ALL TIMES

- 8,000 miles in front
- 8,000 miles in rear
- 8,000 miles in front
- picture taken while rotating back to rear



I always stood ground that a camber kit was not needed for those with Comptech, and H&R OE/Sport springs, but many still insisted that one was needed. I'll leave it up to you.

 

The rears camber more than the fronts when lowered. What do the other tires look like, the ones that have more miles in the rear?

 

hasn't it been the general consensus on this board that you will NOT need a camber kit with comptech springs? you'll need an alignment to get back to spec, but that's a given.

 

while you will not need a camber kit, you WILL need an alignment, after you install it, and again, after the springs have settled.

 

I've had the comptechs on for about 6000 miles with no significant wear on the tires. I didn't even get an alignment. I probably should though.

 

I did got an aligment with my H&R sports, and it shows that my rear were -1.7 degrees, which is off spec. the front is -0.7 degrees which is still in spec.

On the rear tire you can see that there is uneven wear. NOt a MAJOR MAJOR difference, but you can tell, and my rear tires were affected.

 

i have eibachs, which have a more pronounced drop and i have rotated the tires twice, each at 7500 miles. they now show no uneven wear. unless you have a 2" or more drop, a camber kit is not necessary with proper intervals of tire rotation. alignment however is necessary regardless of the drop.

 

If you have a camber issue, having your tires rotated won't help. If you hace camber issue, the inside of the tire will wear faster then the outside, so if you rotate it to the other side, the inside will still wear faster than the outside

 

but the inside will now be the outside if the tires are rotated properly!

 

So you mean to tell me you spend $30 a wheel every 5k miles to remove and mount the tire off the rims? Unless you physically seperate the tire from the wheel, the inside will ALWAYS be the inside, regardless if you cross rotate or not.

 

do you have directional tread on your tires? if you do, i hope when you rotate your tires they remove it from the rim or you will be sucking. and lifetime rotation is free where i buy my tires.

 

What are you talking about? No matter if you rotate the tires properly or improperly, the inside will be the inside on either side of the car, and the outside will be the outside on either side of the car.

When you remove the tire from the rim/wheel, it's not called rotating. U are REMOUNTING the tire. Rotating is just taking the tires from the left side and swap with the right side.

Rotation is usually $10 or less at local tire places or FREE with Costco Membership no matter if you buy ur tire their or not. Remounting is not FREE. They charge you $40 or more, and then you to have re-balance them.

I did this once with my H&R for $50 , and i deemed it not worth it, and just got a $100 camber kit and installed it myself to save me the time and trouble that i would run into later.

 

Put the crack pipe down. If remounting/balancing a tire is considered rotating, then you are one lucky mofo to get that service for free...unless you were an idiot and paid uber premium when you first bought the tire?!

 

With Eibach's and Konis my rear camber on the right was just over max. I'm at work so don't recall the numbers. Finally broke down and put camber kits front and rear and now have much more adjustment capability!