For bry_lee --> here is a VTEC answer of sorts...
07-11-2001 | 12:16 AM
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Suzuka Master
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From: Ninth Gate & So Cal
For bry_lee --> here is a VTEC answer of sorts...
In case that last thread gets killed, here is a 2nd posting of some VTEC info you wanted. You may want to get a Helms...
1. If you just want a toggle switch to turn the VTEC to on, you would do well to add a diode. The control signal goes from 0 volts (no VTEC activation) to the nominal battery voltage (around 13 volts) when the computer signals the VTEC Solenoid Valve to actuate.
(See page 6-11 in Helms manual). It is clear that the one side of the connection is ground. The +13 Volts activates the VTEC.
I would think the safest "start" would be to add a diode in the high side lead from the computer and add a high side lead with diode from your switch. Your switch would need to go to a high side connection.
Something like this:
<pre>
<font size=+1>
switch diode
+12 ------------o \o-------->|-----+
|
diode |
CPU ------------------>|-----------+
|
V
To VTEC (+)
To VTEC GRD
^
|
GROUND ----------------------------+
</font>
</pre>
Look, you may be able to get around the diodes, but without knowing the type of driver the computer is using to "drive" the VTEC solenoid, you could fry it (I don't know).
2. There is a reason the VTEC engages at the current "high" point that it does. In the old days (pre-VTEC) a single cam was a compromise between good low-speed performance and good high-speed performance. Without sending you to cam school, taking a high lift cam with a lot of overlap into the lower speeds just makes for bad air flow (it gets more complicated, but generally has to do with the speed of the air in the intake and the mass of the air).
[ 07-10-2001: Message edited by: EricL ]
Originally posted by bry_lee:
<STRONG>I was thinking the simple toggle switch. Would it be easy to do? For racing purposes wouldnt it be best to have VTEC on as early as possible. IF that were true, i think a simple switch would be the best way to go. Still not quite sure how it would work though, still need help
</STRONG>
<STRONG>I was thinking the simple toggle switch. Would it be easy to do? For racing purposes wouldnt it be best to have VTEC on as early as possible. IF that were true, i think a simple switch would be the best way to go. Still not quite sure how it would work though, still need help
</STRONG>
1. If you just want a toggle switch to turn the VTEC to on, you would do well to add a diode. The control signal goes from 0 volts (no VTEC activation) to the nominal battery voltage (around 13 volts) when the computer signals the VTEC Solenoid Valve to actuate.
(See page 6-11 in Helms manual). It is clear that the one side of the connection is ground. The +13 Volts activates the VTEC.
I would think the safest "start" would be to add a diode in the high side lead from the computer and add a high side lead with diode from your switch. Your switch would need to go to a high side connection.
Something like this:
<pre>
<font size=+1>
switch diode
+12 ------------o \o-------->|-----+
|
diode |
CPU ------------------>|-----------+
|
V
To VTEC (+)
To VTEC GRD
^
|
GROUND ----------------------------+
</font>
</pre>
Look, you may be able to get around the diodes, but without knowing the type of driver the computer is using to "drive" the VTEC solenoid, you could fry it (I don't know).
2. There is a reason the VTEC engages at the current "high" point that it does. In the old days (pre-VTEC) a single cam was a compromise between good low-speed performance and good high-speed performance. Without sending you to cam school, taking a high lift cam with a lot of overlap into the lower speeds just makes for bad air flow (it gets more complicated, but generally has to do with the speed of the air in the intake and the mass of the air).
[ 07-10-2001: Message edited by: EricL ]
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