so i noticed a loss of power and an old thread came to mind...

watched the video (thank you very much for the FAQ) and then i checked out my car and the actuator wasnt moving.

so i call santa monica dealership and describe to them what the actuator was and took my lap top and showed the service manager and the tech the video of the working actuator then my car w/ a broken actuator


so allmotor, maybe we need to have a lil rematch and video tape that ....

for now i get to drive a chevy colorado (mini suburban) ... its a cool lil truck, friday i get my type s back

oh and the service manager laughed @ me when i told them where i got the video and that i frequent the acura-cl.com forum and was about to say something but refrained...

 

can you post the link to that video? i think mine might be broken as well..is it an extreme change in power?

 

no not extreme, i would still take the car WOT and it would never give me any kind of nasty problems.. i just noticed it kind of lagged in the mid rpm range...

http://www.geocities.com/gamesmgr/chod/acura/#Driving6 if ur still under warranty they will cover it but you have to first explain to them whats up with the part and show them how they can tell its broken, they are kinda in denial about the actuator i think...

 

so exactly what does it do when it's working properly? (spin?) and i'm assuming if it's broken then it doesn't move? and the actuator is that black box with a metal round thingy on top of it correct?

 

It doesn't pull the cable when it's broken. At around 4K, it will pull the cable to change the resonance mode in the plenum of the CL Type-S. (CL doesn't use it).

The RPM engagement point will vary from car to car (either do to tach error or variation in driver or actuator).

You can easily see it yourself with the help of a friend to push on the gas for you. It's easy to feel it working from the passenger side of the hood (at least it's easy for me. I actually put my finger on the cable.

Not working ~= 20 less HP at high RPMS.

 

it is the stock intake that uses this correct? i can add any kind of cai and negate this problem?

 

Other than the clunk when rotating the actuator when the engine is cold, is there a audible change in engine noise (car on) when the BVA is working/not working?

Does the BVA click or slowly engage?

How drastic is the power loss? ~20hp, yea... But is there a noticeable "oh my god, my car is freaking taking 10 years to reach redline" feeling?

Sorry, all my friends are off at work....

 

yes there kind of is a 10 years to redline feel, but overall it was not that noticable, i only noticed it when i went up against my buddys 92 sc300 and he was pullin up to me :ghey: and we had gone @ it in the past and he was eatin my dust

 

After reading this thread I had to go out to the parking lot with a co-worker to check my actuator. All is well

 

A CAI (cold air intake) and/or stock intake are really not directly involved in the internal operation (modes) in the CLS/TLS plenum.

If you change to a Comptech, AEM, Injen, or other (home brew?) intake, you're going to find that a broken actuator impacts high-end power just as much -- or more -- than the stock intake.

The S/C and/or Turbo may be different (ask Scalbert/Allmotor), but in general you want the IRMC (the actuator) working.

It changed the internal geometry of the plenum and causes the resonance and "air charging" to be modified depending on RPM.

There is no mechanical feedback (signal) to inform the computer how it is working. IOW, there is nothing to hanging on the plenum side of the cable (or even on the actual actuator) to inform the user via the computer that the unit is working (you will never get a MIL lamp if the actuator isn't moving).

 

if I do recall, scalbert has his IMRC left open at all RPMs. I guess because of the increased air mass that the blower creates?

Quick question: I just went outside and tested mine. If it is broken, will it move a little bit or just not at all? Mine moves but I'm not sure if it moved as much as its supposed to.

 

lol big time paranoia starter thread...

if ur actuator is broken it wont move @ all.
if it works it will pop open quickly @ higher rpms and shut completely when the rpms are dropped back down to idle.

 

i just need a friggin picture of what is exactly supposed to move...

 

How 'bout a movie (look for the little silver object that is the center of focus)?

Real One Player required

http://wizardsworks.org/chod/acura/pics/faq/actuator.rm

AND picture of the actuator. The part that "articulates" (moves) is the silver part. (Look to the right of the round looking black object and you will see a shaft connecting the actuator's motor with the pulley [silver goodie]) The view is from the driver's side. (I “usually” let my wife or buddy gas the car in "P" to above 4K and stick my figure right at the actuator from the passenger side to actual feel the motion. Feel free to do what you want. From here, I don't know what else to tell 'ya.)

 

EDIT - EricL is quicker on the draw.

This is where it is:



Closer view Open/Close

 

you always come through, eric! thank you very much.....thank you as well Chaptorial!

 

It works, just checked it.

 

i got my car back, actuator is fixed... car feels so good, so quick, i'm glad to have my type s back :blaze:

 

Chap, which view is open which view is closed?

And by open, you mean AFTER 4K RPM right? and closed would be below 4K?

 

2nd pic is closed, 3rd pic is open.

And yeah after 4k it opens. You know this.

 

nice to hear u got your cl-s back brian now lets see u run it again against ram

 

i asked him, he hast responded yet, maybe hes scared (lmao yea right)

 

Hey... I just checked my actuator and it isn't moving either!!! Man... I need to go dyno again!

 

This time I will put 103 octane gas and advance timing!!

 

ahhh dood!

please dont hurt me

seriously though, ur actuator is broken? lol does it even matter