Break brakes
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Break brakes
I heard I metallic squealing sound today so I figured my pads are on its way out (I have 108k on the car). Bought some ceramic pads and pulled the caliper off... still have over half of the pad so the noise was something else. But whatever, I decided to install them anyways. Did the usual, clean, antisqueal, push piston down, remount. I also removed some extra fluid from the reservoir.
Thought I was a pro for doing it so fast but when I started driving, I noticed that the pedal sunk down more when I hold it. Doesn't bottom out but gets pretty close. Just to make sure, I bled the front brakes twice (no bubbles) and it still feels different.
I'm stumped, only thing I can think of is a bad master cylinder. Maybe pushing the piston back fucked it up. Don't know, anyone have any suggestions?
Pads the Satisfied Pro Ceramics btw
Thanks
Thought I was a pro for doing it so fast but when I started driving, I noticed that the pedal sunk down more when I hold it. Doesn't bottom out but gets pretty close. Just to make sure, I bled the front brakes twice (no bubbles) and it still feels different.
I'm stumped, only thing I can think of is a bad master cylinder. Maybe pushing the piston back fucked it up. Don't know, anyone have any suggestions?
Pads the Satisfied Pro Ceramics btw
Thanks
#2
Blown is Best
Did you also check the back pads? For some reason, these cars go through rear pads faster than the front. After you replaced the pads, do you still get the squeal?
Also, bleeding sequence is actually backwards from what I'm used to per Helms. Honda/Acura bleeds their systems from closest to Master Cylinder first and rotates out to farthest last.
Whenever I push a piston back in, I bleed that cylinder just to get the gunk out that has settled in the cylinder and was dislodged when the piston was pushed back in.
If you've bled the system, I'm not sure why your pedal would not firm up. Disk brakes are not adjustable and pedal firmness/height is usually an air/bleed issue. I would suggest re-bleeding the system.
Also, bleeding sequence is actually backwards from what I'm used to per Helms. Honda/Acura bleeds their systems from closest to Master Cylinder first and rotates out to farthest last.
Whenever I push a piston back in, I bleed that cylinder just to get the gunk out that has settled in the cylinder and was dislodged when the piston was pushed back in.
If you've bled the system, I'm not sure why your pedal would not firm up. Disk brakes are not adjustable and pedal firmness/height is usually an air/bleed issue. I would suggest re-bleeding the system.
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Allout
Did you also check the back pads? For some reason, these cars go through rear pads faster than the front. After you replaced the pads, do you still get the squeal?
Also, bleeding sequence is actually backwards from what I'm used to per Helms. Honda/Acura bleeds their systems from closest to Master Cylinder first and rotates out to farthest last.
Whenever I push a piston back in, I bleed that cylinder just to get the gunk out that has settled in the cylinder and was dislodged when the piston was pushed back in.
If you've bled the system, I'm not sure why your pedal would not firm up. Disk brakes are not adjustable and pedal firmness/height is usually an air/bleed issue. I would suggest re-bleeding the system.
Also, bleeding sequence is actually backwards from what I'm used to per Helms. Honda/Acura bleeds their systems from closest to Master Cylinder first and rotates out to farthest last.
Whenever I push a piston back in, I bleed that cylinder just to get the gunk out that has settled in the cylinder and was dislodged when the piston was pushed back in.
If you've bled the system, I'm not sure why your pedal would not firm up. Disk brakes are not adjustable and pedal firmness/height is usually an air/bleed issue. I would suggest re-bleeding the system.
I bled front left then front right twice. I'll dig through my helms manual to see if I can find anything.
#4
MP90 uninstalled
My last car was a 95 honda accord and at about 110000 miles I brought it to the honda dealer and had them flush the brake fluid. I had never changed it before and had the car for four years. who knows when it was changed before(previous owner)? Anyway, I hopped into my car andthe second I stared to drive I coud tell something was up with the brakes just like you described above. I went back to the dealer and they bled the brakes again. still crappy brakes. Then he said that my fluid was so bad and the master cylinder seals had become used to the bad fluid and worn out. It is only when you bleed in the new fluid that the new brake fluid is able to penitrate the worn seals thus causing the pedal to be mushy and go down further. they replace my master cylinder for about 120 and it was perfect again. yours may be worn out as well. jim
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by jproy
My last car was a 95 honda accord and at about 110000 miles I brought it to the honda dealer and had them flush the brake fluid. I had never changed it before and had the car for four years. who knows when it was changed before(previous owner)? Anyway, I hopped into my car andthe second I stared to drive I coud tell something was up with the brakes just like you described above. I went back to the dealer and they bled the brakes again. still crappy brakes. Then he said that my fluid was so bad and the master cylinder seals had become used to the bad fluid and worn out. It is only when you bleed in the new fluid that the new brake fluid is able to penitrate the worn seals thus causing the pedal to be mushy and go down further. they replace my master cylinder for about 120 and it was perfect again. yours may be worn out as well. jim
#6
Dragging knees in
iTrader: (2)
Fill the master cylinder back up with brake fluid?? You said you removed some from the MC.
Air is more compressible than hydraulic fluid. When there's less fluid, it will require more pressure within the MC from the booster to apply the same amount of braking force than with more fluid.
Just a thought.
Air is more compressible than hydraulic fluid. When there's less fluid, it will require more pressure within the MC from the booster to apply the same amount of braking force than with more fluid.
Just a thought.
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
I had to remove some fluid because I had to push the cylinder in for the thicker pads. Shouldn't affect the master cylinder unless air go into it. I didn't remove that much and brakes were re-bled too.
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