[DWI]

Okay you all talk about brake upgrades. Let me ask a question. How do they work? Assuming all that they do is increase the friction between the Rotor and the pads by whatever way (replacing or modifing whatever) this should cause the brakes to brake harder with less force applied to the brake pedal. So since the tries will still loose traction at the same point should the ABS kick in at less preasure on the pedal (with the upgrades as opposed to without) and counter act the beifits of better brakes? Is the only reason you would get them for pedal feel and not having to push the pedal all the way down or am I missing something? The only situation I can see a brake upgrade being helpful is when you can push the pedal to the floor and not Kick in the ABS. Sowhat am I missing here? Obviously there wouldn't be a market for brake upgrades if they didn't have some effect but I don't see the logic behind that effect.

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2001 Acura CL Type S "Claire" non-navi No spoiler. Bone stock, for now.
~Member of the Scratched Rim Club.~

FDao

DWI,

Look at it this way. With more power for a car weighing >3000 lbs, you'll eventually need something to bring this behemoth to a respectable stop. Perhaps adding a header/intake/exhaust system may not justify a brake upgrade, but think of adding a forced induction modification to the existing mods and you'll have a fast heavy object hurtling down the road at fast speed. Now try stopping that with the stock set up....hmmm brake fade comes to mine, as well as insufficient heat dissipation and collapsing of the brake line.

So by upgrading to a larger disk or slotted/cross drilled disk, as well as better pads, you'll be able to combat the added heat generated by dissipating it faster, as well as providing more grip with the improved pads.

Anyone else with further thoughts?

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Frank
01-S White/Parchment
Comptech Sways & Springs

frederix

As FDao said, brake upgrades usually involve larger rotors which increase stopping power because they have a greater surface area. Rotors are sometimes cross drilled or slotted to improve heat dissipation. You can also upgrade the brake calipers to ones that have more pistons and use larger brake pads. You can upgrade to better brake lines and fluid too. The way the brakes feel (whether they fade or not) has a lot to do with the material the brake pads and brake lines are made of.

astro

I think the brakes on this car are it's weakest link....I have experienced fade many times when not even driving that spiritedly...I am going to get the brembo upgrade kit, but I want to know first of the front calipers and rotors will work on the rear of our car....anyone know?



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Astroboy out...
2001 Acura CL Type S: Comptech: Headers, filter, sways, springs, koni shocks, goodridge braided brake lines, full kicker system
1996 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo: H&R Springs and sways, Bilstein shocks

frederix

The stock brakes seem to stop the car OK (60-0 in 120-130ft) but the feel leaves much to be desired. Did you notice much of a difference with the new brake lines? I think the brembo kit may require different rims.

astro

the lines make a HUGE difference in pedal feel, but the car still doesn't stop all that well...

Brembo makes 2 kits, one that you need new rims and one that will work with the stock rims..I would get the one that needs bigger rims, cuz I have the rims already...



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Astroboy out...
2001 Acura CL Type S: Comptech: Headers, filter, sways, springs, koni shocks, goodridge braided brake lines, full kicker system
1996 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo: H&R Springs and sways, Bilstein shocks

EricL

The tires really help the braking.

I do think that 11.9" is a bit small for a car as heavy as ours.

I would also love to know how the Bremo's actually work in repeated 70..0 stops.

The stock brakes seem fine on level roads and stop well. I just wouldn't want to race around a track or race like a maniac downhill with them.

Who is going to be the "pioneer" on this one?

BTW -- If I ever need new stock rotors, I would get the slotted ones, not the cross-drilled ones. I just don't think our car has enough air flow to the front rotors to deal with the possible cracking and loss of swept area, bulk heat sinking of the stock ones (It would be different if we had really cool ducted air.)



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2001 Satin Silver Cl-S w/ NAVI

• Mud Guards
• Wheel locks
• Toyo 235/45ZR17-97W* T1S Proxies on Stock 17" CLS wheels
• Gtech 1/8th tank 40F ~=6.1
• Zaino magic
• Sways, headers, CAI comming soon

tel1sps

Better tires and larger brakes would benefit everyone, but if you race or plan on going to the track you should consider it strongly. Our brakes are smaller than the lighter 3 Series brakes.

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2001 Silver 3.2CLS
-Muds, Spoiler, Hardwire 8500, Prolarg M-6 lamps
Planning: Comptech Headers, Sways, CAI

CLpower

astro whats the difference between the 2? Why not go for the smaller ones so you can still sell the car when it comes time? Eh, fuck it..go bigger, i'm just rambling and PWing