body roll technical q?
#1
body roll technical q?
If you increase the grip with better tires and rims. I am assuming that you will increase the body roll of the car? If so what is the next upgrade to reduce the roll? Sways or (Srings and shocks). I was hoping to just get the tires, wheels, and sways. Sound reasonable? Thanks in advance.
#2
Re: body roll technical q?
Originally posted by i81monkey
If you increase the grip with better tires and rims. I am assuming that you will increase the body roll of the car? If so what is the next upgrade to reduce the roll? Sways or (Srings and shocks). I was hoping to just get the tires, wheels, and sways. Sound reasonable? Thanks in advance.
If you increase the grip with better tires and rims. I am assuming that you will increase the body roll of the car? If so what is the next upgrade to reduce the roll? Sways or (Srings and shocks). I was hoping to just get the tires, wheels, and sways. Sound reasonable? Thanks in advance.
Springs do, too a certain degree, but they handle more of the up/down motion, whereas the sways limit the side to side rocking. In order for springs to have more of an effect, they have to be stiffer, and that makes the ride harsher.
Swap the sways, and enjoy a night/day driving difference with the CL!
#3
AS mentioned, the tires, wheels, and sways do wonders...
I run Toyo 235/45-17 T1S with SSR Comps. 17x8" +48 (13-14lbs each) and Comptech sways (front/rear). The difference in balance, handling, acceleration is profound.
The car already rolls too much (for my tastes stock) and just does more of it with sticky tires. The sways work well and you might even consider an additional strut bar in the front for a few more bucks if you go with tires, wheels, and sways...
I run Toyo 235/45-17 T1S with SSR Comps. 17x8" +48 (13-14lbs each) and Comptech sways (front/rear). The difference in balance, handling, acceleration is profound.
The car already rolls too much (for my tastes stock) and just does more of it with sticky tires. The sways work well and you might even consider an additional strut bar in the front for a few more bucks if you go with tires, wheels, and sways...
#4
EricL
Are you saying to remove the stock strut bar or add an additional one somewhere? Also you say that your acceleration has improved with those thicker tires? I thought acceleration would suffer but handling would be improved? Also since you were swapping your wheels did you consider 18'' I was thinking of 235/45/18. Sorry for all the questions. Thanks again.
#5
Re: EricL
Originally posted by i81monkey
Are you saying to remove the stock strut bar or add an additional one somewhere? Also you say that your acceleration has improved with those thicker tires? I thought acceleration would suffer but handling would be improved? Also since you were swapping your wheels did you consider 18'' I was thinking of 235/45/18. Sorry for all the questions. Thanks again.
Are you saying to remove the stock strut bar or add an additional one somewhere? Also you say that your acceleration has improved with those thicker tires? I thought acceleration would suffer but handling would be improved? Also since you were swapping your wheels did you consider 18'' I was thinking of 235/45/18. Sorry for all the questions. Thanks again.
You can add the Neuspeed strut bar in addition to the factory bar (things might have changed, but I have one and opinions vary on how well it works). I removed mine after a few weeks and put it right back on after a run to see if I was full-of-it and it helps on turn in and tight corners.
The tires are 23.8 lbs vs. 26lbs. The 235/45-17s have less deformation losses from the lowered front-to-rear footprint. They are stickier, so gas mileage goes down and there is additional drag from sticky issues (wider tires of the same construction have lower deformation losses for a given diameter [215/50-17 vs. 235/45-17]). They tires are very hard to break loose and the total weight loss on the 17x8” SSR Comps + Toyos works out to about 50+ lbs for all four tires and wheels (compared to the stock MXM4 tires and wheels). The stock rims are cast and are pretty thick at the outside of the rim. The SSRs are very thin there and the weight at the outside is important (tires weight too)!
The acceleration gain is mainly due to better stick and an large reduction in rotating mass.
They didn’t make the SSRs in 18” at the time; I think the 18s look better, but I’m happy with the acceleration issues.
IMO, if you go with 18”, you would want 225/45-18 or 235/40-18. (The 235/45-18’s diameter is too high).
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