BBK question
10-17-2006, 09:00 PM
#1
9.5 lbs o' Boost!!!!
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BBK question
Hey guys,
I finally got my BBK and other goodies that I orded a month ago. I am going to the shop this week to install everthing and as you can imagine I cant WAIT!
when everything is installed and Im ready to go, how and what is the proper way to embed the pads to the rotors? I want to make sure that i do it correctly as I do not want to have anything fail on me. Is there anything special that I have to be aware of and/or do? Tips would be nice! Thanks guys.
Daniel Son-
I finally got my BBK and other goodies that I orded a month ago. I am going to the shop this week to install everthing and as you can imagine I cant WAIT!
when everything is installed and Im ready to go, how and what is the proper way to embed the pads to the rotors? I want to make sure that i do it correctly as I do not want to have anything fail on me. Is there anything special that I have to be aware of and/or do? Tips would be nice! Thanks guys.
Daniel Son-
10-17-2006, 09:16 PM
#2
Hey sorry for the delay on the kit again. I hope the shirts and promo material stuff I sent fit. I can't find my ROTORA link right now but this bed in theory is very similar to ROTORA's:
For a typical BBK setup using street-performance pads (which yours does), perform a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph. Each of the ten partial braking events should be done moderately and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.
The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.
For a typical BBK setup using street-performance pads (which yours does), perform a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph. Each of the ten partial braking events should be done moderately and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.
The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.
10-18-2006, 03:44 PM
#4
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alright. Thanks a lot Excelerate. I appreciate the deal and understand the delay. Yes the shirts are cool and I thank you for them. Now I got to make this embeding thing work....
10-18-2006, 10:42 PM
#5
Blown is Best
Originally Posted by italiaCLs
alright. Thanks a lot Excelerate. I appreciate the deal and understand the delay. Yes the shirts are cool and I thank you for them. Now I got to make this embeding thing work....
When you do the bedding process, you'll know if you got them hot enough when you can smell them.
10-18-2006, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Allout
Keep in mind that even after you go through the "Bedding" process, the brakes can become "Un-Bedded" if not driven aggressively enough. I've had to do a partial bedding process again to transfer brake material back to the rotor. You'll know if you feel like you've got warped rotors.
When you do the bedding process, you'll know if you got them hot enough when you can smell them.
When you do the bedding process, you'll know if you got them hot enough when you can smell them.
10-18-2006, 11:04 PM
#7
Blown is Best
Originally Posted by superfob
So can you fix warped rotors by rebedding the pads?
The two can be confused is the point that I was trying to make when you're running an aggressive stree/track pad. I've had that problem on mine occasionally and also on my wife's TL-P that's running Rotora slotted/drilled rotors and Porterfield R4S pads. I originally thought that the rotors were warped but I read the white papers on Stoptech's site to understand the purpose of Bedding, everything became more clear. Once I did the re-bedding of the pads, all was good.
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10-19-2006, 11:58 AM
#8
Originally Posted by Allout
No. Not if you truly have warped rotors.
The two can be confused is the point that I was trying to make when you're running an aggressive stree/track pad. I've had that problem on mine occasionally and also on my wife's TL-P that's running Rotora slotted/drilled rotors and Porterfield R4S pads. I originally thought that the rotors were warped but I read the white papers on Stoptech's site to understand the purpose of Bedding, everything became more clear. Once I did the re-bedding of the pads, all was good.
The two can be confused is the point that I was trying to make when you're running an aggressive stree/track pad. I've had that problem on mine occasionally and also on my wife's TL-P that's running Rotora slotted/drilled rotors and Porterfield R4S pads. I originally thought that the rotors were warped but I read the white papers on Stoptech's site to understand the purpose of Bedding, everything became more clear. Once I did the re-bedding of the pads, all was good.
10-19-2006, 06:49 PM
#9
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hey I just realized that I am missing a washer that goes on the brake lines. I only have three and the picture shows that two go on each line. Correct me if im wrong. Do I only need two washers but the third is an extra? (im talking about the washers that are copper and go on the end of the brake line that ataches to the caliper. PLEASE HELP!!!
10-19-2006, 11:31 PM
#11
Originally Posted by italiaCLs
hey I just realized that I am missing a washer that goes on the brake lines. I only have three and the picture shows that two go on each line. Correct me if im wrong. Do I only need two washers but the third is an extra? (im talking about the washers that are copper and go on the end of the brake line that ataches to the caliper. PLEASE HELP!!!
10-20-2006, 08:16 PM
#13
Blown is Best
Originally Posted by Excelerate
I think what you're referring to is the glazing of the rotor rather than a warping of the rotor. Pad material has built up on the rotor causing a vibration so re-bedding the pads can eliminate this. I think that is what you meant, right?
10-20-2006, 08:22 PM
#14
Blown is Best
Originally Posted by italiaCLs
hey I just realized that I am missing a washer that goes on the brake lines. I only have three and the picture shows that two go on each line. Correct me if im wrong. Do I only need two washers but the third is an extra? (im talking about the washers that are copper and go on the end of the brake line that ataches to the caliper. PLEASE HELP!!!
1) Banjo Bolt
2) Copper Washer
3) Brake Line
4) Copper Washer
5) Attach to Caliper.
Remember to torque down.
10-21-2006, 09:46 AM
#15
Originally Posted by Allout
Wrong - not "glazing". Bedding brakes transfers a layer of brake material to the rotor face. If this layer is worn off inconsistently, braking will be inconsistent giving the feeling that the rotors are warped. Re-bedding the pads transfers the material again to the rotor braking surfaces.
10-21-2006, 02:51 PM
#16
Blown is Best
Originally Posted by Excelerate
Calm down. I was asking you if that was what you were referring to, not telling. I guess I should have specified more what I meant. I meant an uneven build up or lack of.
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