Balancing Build on a Budget
01-27-2011, 02:04 PM
#1
Cruisin'
Thread Starter
Balancing Build on a Budget
Greetings All,
First off I'd like to say this is a great forum. I've done a lot of researching and studying various threads and posts. Last October my wife and I picked up our 2003 CL-P. It had 55,000 grandmother miles on it. I have been very happy with it and love how it drives. It's gold, not my first choice, but it looks good. Oddly enough, it's about the same color as my truck. We wanted to dump our high car payment and came across the Acura. Our other car was a very nice 2006 Accord EX-L V6 with nav and a 6-speed manual. We loved it, but actually like the CL better.
Here's what I'm looking to do. I already through on some wheels and tires. Next step is B&G suspension with a rear Progress bar. I want to tighten up the handling and stance.
From there I'm looking at brakes. Nothing too expensive, but the Stop Tech wave, cross drilled rotors with good pads. I hate warped rotors.
After that I settled on performance bolt-ons. I know that this is not the S-Type, but I figured a few things should help. I was looking at CT axleback, some headers and an intake. Has anyone noticed any difference on the P with some bolt-ons making any decent improvement?
The last item is drive train. It's really only a matter of when the transmission fails in my mind. I've done some research and am looking at the most budget friendly approach.
My thought was to purchase a 2004 Odyssey 3.5L and auto out of a low mileage salvage. After some research I was planning to put in the RL pistons. My contemplation is cams. Should I leave it stock, look at after market cams, or pick up RL cams?
In the end this is the first sporty coupe in a long time. The posts have given me the itch to scratch and make this a really fun car with some decent power.
Any input or experience on the mods would be appreciated. I'll have to work some overtime to come up with funds.
First off I'd like to say this is a great forum. I've done a lot of researching and studying various threads and posts. Last October my wife and I picked up our 2003 CL-P. It had 55,000 grandmother miles on it. I have been very happy with it and love how it drives. It's gold, not my first choice, but it looks good. Oddly enough, it's about the same color as my truck. We wanted to dump our high car payment and came across the Acura. Our other car was a very nice 2006 Accord EX-L V6 with nav and a 6-speed manual. We loved it, but actually like the CL better.
Here's what I'm looking to do. I already through on some wheels and tires. Next step is B&G suspension with a rear Progress bar. I want to tighten up the handling and stance.
From there I'm looking at brakes. Nothing too expensive, but the Stop Tech wave, cross drilled rotors with good pads. I hate warped rotors.
After that I settled on performance bolt-ons. I know that this is not the S-Type, but I figured a few things should help. I was looking at CT axleback, some headers and an intake. Has anyone noticed any difference on the P with some bolt-ons making any decent improvement?
The last item is drive train. It's really only a matter of when the transmission fails in my mind. I've done some research and am looking at the most budget friendly approach.
My thought was to purchase a 2004 Odyssey 3.5L and auto out of a low mileage salvage. After some research I was planning to put in the RL pistons. My contemplation is cams. Should I leave it stock, look at after market cams, or pick up RL cams?
In the end this is the first sporty coupe in a long time. The posts have given me the itch to scratch and make this a really fun car with some decent power.
Any input or experience on the mods would be appreciated. I'll have to work some overtime to come up with funds.
01-27-2011, 02:33 PM
#2
Since your on a budget, check out the BM for used parts from members at a good price.
You will get gains from performance mods no matter if you have the type-s or not.
Right now I would start saving for the 105k service and the tranny. Both of those would cost you about 3k together.
CT items are pricey. I say pick up a CAI (or resonator removal + K&N filter for a real budget mod) and just get a pair of universal mufflers.
I would refrain from getting drilled rotors. You cant resurface them most times and they will still warp. Most members suggest DBA rotors or slotted rotors. I personally get cheap-o rotors, resurface them when they are warped then toss them when they are done. Most rotors will warp anyways so there's no use in getting much of anything else.
You will get gains from performance mods no matter if you have the type-s or not.
Right now I would start saving for the 105k service and the tranny. Both of those would cost you about 3k together.
CT items are pricey. I say pick up a CAI (or resonator removal + K&N filter for a real budget mod) and just get a pair of universal mufflers.
I would refrain from getting drilled rotors. You cant resurface them most times and they will still warp. Most members suggest DBA rotors or slotted rotors. I personally get cheap-o rotors, resurface them when they are warped then toss them when they are done. Most rotors will warp anyways so there's no use in getting much of anything else.
01-27-2011, 02:36 PM
#3
Congratulations on your CL! Your list of modifications sounds good and all, but from prior experience with modifiying cars its best to come up with a goal for the car first. Once you have that goal in mind plan out your modifications to best get you to that goal based on what your budget allows.
If you are just looking to have a decent driving car I'd lose all the engine swap goodness. It all sounds fine in theory but once you get the car in there are always issues that come along unplanned that can be very discouraging. Especially if you aren't able to do it all yourself; labor time (and the cost therein) adds up really fast. If you want a blazing fast highway rocket then you're on the right track.
I dont want to sound all fatherish and stuff but looking back at my first few projects from my younger days I wish I had approached it in a more planned manner otherwise I would have had a car that was much more to my liking. In stead I spent money in several directions just to find out in the end it wasn't what I really wanted.
/3 cents
Ultimately, I hope you enjoy your CL! When the modification bug bites it usually bites real hard. If you go in with a clear goal you will be much more satisfied with the end product (since there is a clearly defined end). Having a "never done" project gets old eventually.
If you are just looking to have a decent driving car I'd lose all the engine swap goodness. It all sounds fine in theory but once you get the car in there are always issues that come along unplanned that can be very discouraging. Especially if you aren't able to do it all yourself; labor time (and the cost therein) adds up really fast. If you want a blazing fast highway rocket then you're on the right track.
I dont want to sound all fatherish and stuff but looking back at my first few projects from my younger days I wish I had approached it in a more planned manner otherwise I would have had a car that was much more to my liking. In stead I spent money in several directions just to find out in the end it wasn't what I really wanted.
/3 cents
Ultimately, I hope you enjoy your CL! When the modification bug bites it usually bites real hard. If you go in with a clear goal you will be much more satisfied with the end product (since there is a clearly defined end). Having a "never done" project gets old eventually.
01-27-2011, 02:38 PM
#4
Your Friendly Canadian
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Hope you sold the Accord for a damn good price. 6MT with nav is a hard find 
I would double check to see if the timing belt has been replaced, those are good for 7 years or 105k miles, and it's just over 7 years, so might be worthwhile.
I wouldn't do the cross-drilled rotors if you want to avoid warpage. They're prone to cracking too. Why not a good set of Brembo blanks? If you're looking for good pads, check out Hawk and EBC, but I hear they dust quite a bit.
Best of luck and 
I would double check to see if the timing belt has been replaced, those are good for 7 years or 105k miles, and it's just over 7 years, so might be worthwhile.
I wouldn't do the cross-drilled rotors if you want to avoid warpage. They're prone to cracking too. Why not a good set of Brembo blanks? If you're looking for good pads, check out Hawk and EBC, but I hear they dust quite a bit.
Best of luck
and
01-27-2011, 04:20 PM
#5
Senior Moderator
Greetings All,
First off I'd like to say this is a great forum. I've done a lot of researching and studying various threads and posts. Last October my wife and I picked up our 2003 CL-P. It had 55,000 grandmother miles on it. I have been very happy with it and love how it drives. It's gold, not my first choice, but it looks good. Oddly enough, it's about the same color as my truck. We wanted to dump our high car payment and came across the Acura. Our other car was a very nice 2006 Accord EX-L V6 with nav and a 6-speed manual. We loved it, but actually like the CL better.
Here's what I'm looking to do. I already through on some wheels and tires. Next step is B&G suspension with a rear Progress bar. I want to tighten up the handling and stance.
From there I'm looking at brakes. Nothing too expensive, but the Stop Tech wave, cross drilled rotors with good pads. I hate warped rotors.
After that I settled on performance bolt-ons. I know that this is not the S-Type, but I figured a few things should help. I was looking at CT axleback, some headers and an intake. Has anyone noticed any difference on the P with some bolt-ons making any decent improvement?
The last item is drive train. It's really only a matter of when the transmission fails in my mind. I've done some research and am looking at the most budget friendly approach.
My thought was to purchase a 2004 Odyssey 3.5L and auto out of a low mileage salvage. After some research I was planning to put in the RL pistons. My contemplation is cams. Should I leave it stock, look at after market cams, or pick up RL cams?
In the end this is the first sporty coupe in a long time. The posts have given me the itch to scratch and make this a really fun car with some decent power.
Any input or experience on the mods would be appreciated. I'll have to work some overtime to come up with funds.
First off I'd like to say this is a great forum. I've done a lot of researching and studying various threads and posts. Last October my wife and I picked up our 2003 CL-P. It had 55,000 grandmother miles on it. I have been very happy with it and love how it drives. It's gold, not my first choice, but it looks good. Oddly enough, it's about the same color as my truck. We wanted to dump our high car payment and came across the Acura. Our other car was a very nice 2006 Accord EX-L V6 with nav and a 6-speed manual. We loved it, but actually like the CL better.
Here's what I'm looking to do. I already through on some wheels and tires. Next step is B&G suspension with a rear Progress bar. I want to tighten up the handling and stance.
From there I'm looking at brakes. Nothing too expensive, but the Stop Tech wave, cross drilled rotors with good pads. I hate warped rotors.
After that I settled on performance bolt-ons. I know that this is not the S-Type, but I figured a few things should help. I was looking at CT axleback, some headers and an intake. Has anyone noticed any difference on the P with some bolt-ons making any decent improvement?
The last item is drive train. It's really only a matter of when the transmission fails in my mind. I've done some research and am looking at the most budget friendly approach.
My thought was to purchase a 2004 Odyssey 3.5L and auto out of a low mileage salvage. After some research I was planning to put in the RL pistons. My contemplation is cams. Should I leave it stock, look at after market cams, or pick up RL cams?
In the end this is the first sporty coupe in a long time. The posts have given me the itch to scratch and make this a really fun car with some decent power.
Any input or experience on the mods would be appreciated. I'll have to work some overtime to come up with funds.
Last edited by typeR; 01-27-2011 at 04:25 PM.
01-27-2011, 04:41 PM
#6
with all my mods I only got 229whp intake, tb spacer, thermal gaskets, ct headers, p2r plenums, and underdrive pulley ... there's no way a pulley and intake will net 20hp... no offence more like 13-15.
but it's a whole different feel once u put the intake and pulley on... you'll think it's 20hp for sure.
I dunno what a base line run woulda got me but I think all them mods only got me 30 whp or so.
but it's a whole different feel once u put the intake and pulley on... you'll think it's 20hp for sure.
I dunno what a base line run woulda got me but I think all them mods only got me 30 whp or so.
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01-27-2011, 06:24 PM
#8
Senior Moderator
with all my mods I only got 229whp intake, tb spacer, thermal gaskets, ct headers, p2r plenums, and underdrive pulley ... there's no way a pulley and intake will net 20hp... no offence more like 13-15.
but it's a whole different feel once u put the intake and pulley on... you'll think it's 20hp for sure.
I dunno what a base line run woulda got me but I think all them mods only got me 30 whp or so.
but it's a whole different feel once u put the intake and pulley on... you'll think it's 20hp for sure.
I dunno what a base line run woulda got me but I think all them mods only got me 30 whp or so.
01-27-2011, 09:28 PM
#9
Cruisin'
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the suggestions so far. My first priority is the suspension. After that it's intake and exhaust. I have been looking at the BM for deals, like was suggested.
I would only intend on putting a 3.5L in if I have a transmission failure. My thoughts were that I might as well do the motor since it's gotta come out to replace the transmission. Back in the day I used to rebuild and pull my motors. Of course they were 350 small block Chevy's. It was fun, but work and always something came up.
Until the day of possible tranny failure, a 3.5L swap isn't a priority. I appreciate the feedback on the exhaust. CT is spendy. I thought about MagnaFlow. Anyone have any part or model numbers of what they used? I found some headers on fleabay at a great deal too.
On another note... I loved the Accord! We got about $17K for it with about 33K miles on it. My only regret was not finding a CL-S. On the other hand, most I found were over 100K and lucky not to have a salvage title.
I have a co-worker that is a mechanic on the side. He's going to do my timing belt service. I'm taking it in shortly for a transmission service. Low miles, but 8 years old makes me nervous.
I would only intend on putting a 3.5L in if I have a transmission failure. My thoughts were that I might as well do the motor since it's gotta come out to replace the transmission. Back in the day I used to rebuild and pull my motors. Of course they were 350 small block Chevy's. It was fun, but work and always something came up.
Until the day of possible tranny failure, a 3.5L swap isn't a priority. I appreciate the feedback on the exhaust. CT is spendy. I thought about MagnaFlow. Anyone have any part or model numbers of what they used? I found some headers on fleabay at a great deal too.
On another note... I loved the Accord! We got about $17K for it with about 33K miles on it. My only regret was not finding a CL-S. On the other hand, most I found were over 100K and lucky not to have a salvage title.
I have a co-worker that is a mechanic on the side. He's going to do my timing belt service. I'm taking it in shortly for a transmission service. Low miles, but 8 years old makes me nervous.
01-28-2011, 05:55 PM
#12
Three Wheelin'
My old 2000TL ran a 15.4 stock, then with headers, CAI and a UR crank pulley it ran a 14.98. So yes those three mods really help. You'll be close to type-S output.
01-28-2011, 07:59 PM
#13
Three Wheelin'
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first remove lower resonator and buy a K&N drop in ...55$ about 10 hp ... get a cheapy crank pulley off ebay 5-$ or so another 30 for belts ... another 10 hp ... springs like H&R o.e sports which advertise .75/.50 drop really lower the CL about 1.0 to 1.25 inches all four corners ... 150$ or so and add a type S sway bar of BM if they can be had for id guess 50$ and obx headers or ebay equivilants for about 150$
Couldn't of suggested anything better myself.
01-29-2011, 02:39 PM
#14
Cruisin'
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the suggestions. I've settled on my direction. Keeping things simple, affordable and reliable is my priority. This spring I'll get the springs, struts and RSB installed. After my 105K service I'll get exhaust and intake done.
There was a lot of good threads on the MagnaFlows, cats and resonators. I'll live with opening up the intake and exhaust for the perfomance end of things. Those are very affordable options.
I've already fabbed a mesh grill. I'm just waiting for weather to warm up. It has the gold emblems... can't stand that color against naples gold metallic. I'm going to pick up a chrome A for the front and rear trunk lid for simplicity.
I've ditched my desire for swapping a 3.5L.... it's so easy to keep spending more and more money. I've got other projects besides the car to put money on.
There was a lot of good threads on the MagnaFlows, cats and resonators. I'll live with opening up the intake and exhaust for the perfomance end of things. Those are very affordable options.
I've already fabbed a mesh grill. I'm just waiting for weather to warm up. It has the gold emblems... can't stand that color against naples gold metallic. I'm going to pick up a chrome A for the front and rear trunk lid for simplicity.
I've ditched my desire for swapping a 3.5L.... it's so easy to keep spending more and more money. I've got other projects besides the car to put money on.
01-30-2011, 04:53 AM
#15
Ultra Negro
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Thanks for all the suggestions. I've settled on my direction. Keeping things simple, affordable and reliable is my priority. This spring I'll get the springs, struts and RSB installed. After my 105K service I'll get exhaust and intake done.
There was a lot of good threads on the MagnaFlows, cats and resonators. I'll live with opening up the intake and exhaust for the perfomance end of things. Those are very affordable options.
I've already fabbed a mesh grill. I'm just waiting for weather to warm up. It has the gold emblems... can't stand that color against naples gold metallic. I'm going to pick up a chrome A for the front and rear trunk lid for simplicity.
I've ditched my desire for swapping a 3.5L.... it's so easy to keep spending more and more money. I've got other projects besides the car to put money on.
There was a lot of good threads on the MagnaFlows, cats and resonators. I'll live with opening up the intake and exhaust for the perfomance end of things. Those are very affordable options.
I've already fabbed a mesh grill. I'm just waiting for weather to warm up. It has the gold emblems... can't stand that color against naples gold metallic. I'm going to pick up a chrome A for the front and rear trunk lid for simplicity.
I've ditched my desire for swapping a 3.5L.... it's so easy to keep spending more and more money. I've got other projects besides the car to put money on.
but the exhaust piping behind the cat is actually pretty free flowing.
01-30-2011, 10:15 AM
#16
Cruisin'
Thread Starter
Thanks for the information. I was searching on cat back solutions and performance. My plan was headers and CAI after suspension for sure. If there isn't enough performance gain opening up from the cat back, I'll probably skip it. For the money I was looking at Magnaflow 14832's and an 18" Magnapack resonator with 2 1/2 or 2 1/4 piping. My impression from reading was that it sounded nice and that was about it. There wasn't much mention on performance benefits.
01-30-2011, 10:36 AM
#17
Senior Moderator
Thanks for the information. I was searching on cat back solutions and performance. My plan was headers and CAI after suspension for sure. If there isn't enough performance gain opening up from the cat back, I'll probably skip it. For the money I was looking at Magnaflow 14832's and an 18" Magnapack resonator with 2 1/2 or 2 1/4 piping. My impression from reading was that it sounded nice and that was about it. There wasn't much mention on performance benefits.
01-30-2011, 05:51 PM
#18
first remove lower resonator and buy a K&N drop in ...55$ about 10 hp ... get a cheapy crank pulley off ebay 5-$ or so another 30 for belts ... another 10 hp ... springs like H&R o.e sports which advertise .75/.50 drop really lower the CL about 1.0 to 1.25 inches all four corners ... 150$ or so and add a type S sway bar of BM if they can be had for id guess 50$ and obx headers or ebay equivilants for about 150$
which one is the lower resonator.
is that same as going with a straight pipe ( which i dont think adds power on NA)
That is actually d first time i hv heard off removing lower resonator = more power. I was always under the impression u loose low end torque and gain it on top so tht it sorta evens out ( just a shift in the power band)
sb let me know if i am wrong.
01-30-2011, 07:50 PM
#19
Whats up with RDX owners?
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01-30-2011, 08:05 PM
#20
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Rims
Hey Guys,
I have a 07 TL Type S that didn't come with Type S rims. Don't really know why it didn't come with the Type S rims, but I didn't want to pass up the deal. Does anyone know where I can get Type S rims a lot cheaper then what the dealership is offering? Thanx!!!!
I have a 07 TL Type S that didn't come with Type S rims. Don't really know why it didn't come with the Type S rims, but I didn't want to pass up the deal. Does anyone know where I can get Type S rims a lot cheaper then what the dealership is offering? Thanx!!!!
01-30-2011, 08:07 PM
#21
Whats up with RDX owners?
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Craigslist, the Black Market, eBay... What wheels are on it?
01-30-2011, 08:09 PM
#22
Hey Guys,
I have a 07 TL Type S that didn't come with Type S rims. Don't really know why it didn't come with the Type S rims, but I didn't want to pass up the deal. Does anyone know where I can get Type S rims a lot cheaper then what the dealership is offering? Thanx!!!!
I have a 07 TL Type S that didn't come with Type S rims. Don't really know why it didn't come with the Type S rims, but I didn't want to pass up the deal. Does anyone know where I can get Type S rims a lot cheaper then what the dealership is offering? Thanx!!!!
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/
Black Market Classifieds
https://acurazine.com/forums/black-market-8/
01-30-2011, 10:28 PM
#23
Ultra Negro
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got pics or any illustartions ?
which one is the lower resonator.
is that same as going with a straight pipe ( which i dont think adds power on NA)
That is actually d first time i hv heard off removing lower resonator = more power. I was always under the impression u loose low end torque and gain it on top so tht it sorta evens out ( just a shift in the power band)
sb let me know if i am wrong.
which one is the lower resonator.
is that same as going with a straight pipe ( which i dont think adds power on NA)
That is actually d first time i hv heard off removing lower resonator = more power. I was always under the impression u loose low end torque and gain it on top so tht it sorta evens out ( just a shift in the power band)
sb let me know if i am wrong.
01-31-2011, 01:21 PM
#25
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Regional Coordinator
(Mid-Atlantic)
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ballin on a budget isn't easy, but it can be done
02-01-2011, 08:42 PM
#27
Cruisin'
Thread Starter
Intake resonator off... always a pain the first time you dive into something. Mesh grill installed. That was actually a pretty fun project. All thanks to the great information.
My next step is getting the B&G springs and struts with a progress bar. After that I'll post up a pic.
My next step is getting the B&G springs and struts with a progress bar. After that I'll post up a pic.
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