ATTN JENS: Rotor question
ATTN JENS: Rotor question
I just recently installed Rotora Rotors with Axxis Ultimate pads on the front and rear of my TL-S. I went throught the break-in period and they are great. Only problem is the rear squeal when I apply light or moderate pressure. They don't squeal when I brake hard. Any suggestions as to why this is happening and what I can do to fix it.
Thanks
-Rich
Thanks
-Rich
that is somewhat normal, i'd expect squeeking to go away after a few hundred miles, when you installed the rotors, did you spray any anti-squeel on them? i did this and have not received any squeel during braking
you can still spray them, just take your wheels off and lightly spray the rotor surface
you can still spray them, just take your wheels off and lightly spray the rotor surface
Originally Posted by Shawn S
Unfortunately, Jens doesn’t visit the Forum any more.
Maybe someone else will be able to help you though.
Maybe someone else will be able to help you though.
Originally Posted by Edward
Was it his dealership or Honda that prohibits him from doing so ?
Thats what he told me last time i spoke with him when i was at PAA.
That low speed brake squeel is a result of the pads. They might be a bit too hard. It might go away in a few hundred miles. I had a set of hard pads on another car & all 4 wheels had that squeel.
I have this set up w/no problems,,, now that you have a couple hundred miles on them try a couple of panic stops 70 to 20 mph do this back to back,,, this will seat them up nicely and I bet your problem will go away.
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Originally Posted by typeSb00st
i have this problem to this day! with stock rotors though. thought it was the stock pads so i changed them for the axxis. and it still squeeks like a bitch stopping slow.
If you don't break them in, your can have trouble...
And, something that is important and also well documented in the Acura CL service manual (page 19-12 of 2001 CL/CLS Service manual AKA Helms):
10. Apply Molykote M77 grease or Daikalube 528D grease to the pad side of the shims (A), and the back of the pads (B), and other areas indicated by the arrows. Wipe excess grease off the shim. Contaminated brake disks or pads reduce stopping ability. Keep grease off the disks and pads.
BTW, did you grind or lathe the rotors when you swapped your pads?
i installed my rotors and pads myself and didn not grease the areas around the pads
all we did was spray the rotor surface with a light coat of anti-squeel, but once we were finished i followed a very strict break in procedure:
-pump the brake about 10 times nice and hard while the car is on
-do about a dozen medium braking from 35-5 but do not come to a full stop
-stop from about 60-10 with harder pressure about a dozen times
-try not to come to a complete stop, when stopping, just slowly apply pressure until you stop, no hard stops to 0
-while on the highway apply light pressure for an extended period of time
-then after a few hundred miles give some of those really hard stops
i know it sounds complicated but it wasn't that bad when i did it, and i had a tiny bit of squeen aroudn 20 mph for a little bit, but not its gone and my brakes are really good, but it has probly been a while since you got your brakes upgraded
all we did was spray the rotor surface with a light coat of anti-squeel, but once we were finished i followed a very strict break in procedure:
-pump the brake about 10 times nice and hard while the car is on
-do about a dozen medium braking from 35-5 but do not come to a full stop
-stop from about 60-10 with harder pressure about a dozen times
-try not to come to a complete stop, when stopping, just slowly apply pressure until you stop, no hard stops to 0
-while on the highway apply light pressure for an extended period of time
-then after a few hundred miles give some of those really hard stops
i know it sounds complicated but it wasn't that bad when i did it, and i had a tiny bit of squeen aroudn 20 mph for a little bit, but not its gone and my brakes are really good, but it has probly been a while since you got your brakes upgraded
Originally Posted by CleanCL
i installed my rotors and pads myself and didn not grease the areas around the pads
all we did was spray the rotor surface with a light coat of anti-squeel, but once we were finished i followed a very strict break in procedure:
-pump the brake about 10 times nice and hard while the car is on
-do about a dozen medium braking from 35-5 but do not come to a full stop
-stop from about 60-10 with harder pressure about a dozen times
-try not to come to a complete stop, when stopping, just slowly apply pressure until you stop, no hard stops to 0
-while on the highway apply light pressure for an extended period of time
-then after a few hundred miles give some of those really hard stops
i know it sounds complicated but it wasn't that bad when i did it, and i had a tiny bit of squeen aroudn 20 mph for a little bit, but not its gone and my brakes are really good, but it has probly been a while since you got your brakes upgraded
all we did was spray the rotor surface with a light coat of anti-squeel, but once we were finished i followed a very strict break in procedure:
-pump the brake about 10 times nice and hard while the car is on
-do about a dozen medium braking from 35-5 but do not come to a full stop
-stop from about 60-10 with harder pressure about a dozen times
-try not to come to a complete stop, when stopping, just slowly apply pressure until you stop, no hard stops to 0
-while on the highway apply light pressure for an extended period of time
-then after a few hundred miles give some of those really hard stops
i know it sounds complicated but it wasn't that bad when i did it, and i had a tiny bit of squeen aroudn 20 mph for a little bit, but not its gone and my brakes are really good, but it has probly been a while since you got your brakes upgraded
Not lubing up the backing plate, shims, pins, etc (as applicabe)
Getting a hard glaze. And, the bed-in procedure (as in repeated stops) won't help -- or might help for a few tries making it seem like it helps.
I've gotten rid of more than a few squeel episodes by pulling the pads out and doing a good cleaning with some fresh brake pad lube.
The other issue is having the pads "ride" on the rotors -- a great way to build up glaze.
BTW, the bulk of the anti-squeal products are meant to go on the BACK of the pads, not the front...
Brake squeal
Often a misunderstood problem. Squeal is high frequency vibration often between pad and disc. Most pads have built in "anti squeal shims" or as well as on the calliper. "Anti Squeal" paste or fluid can be used, but resist applying to the friction surface, as it is then also anti brake! It is simply often a way to absorb the vibration. Machining the disc can often rectify the fault. OR in some cases, a big long HEAVY brake, as it may be poor surface, or be careful a situation where the pad has become shiny like a mirror and loses its grip. To fix this, removal of the pad to remove this shiny layer is needed.
Often a misunderstood problem. Squeal is high frequency vibration often between pad and disc. Most pads have built in "anti squeal shims" or as well as on the calliper. "Anti Squeal" paste or fluid can be used, but resist applying to the friction surface, as it is then also anti brake! It is simply often a way to absorb the vibration. Machining the disc can often rectify the fault. OR in some cases, a big long HEAVY brake, as it may be poor surface, or be careful a situation where the pad has become shiny like a mirror and loses its grip. To fix this, removal of the pad to remove this shiny layer is needed.
I'm sorry to hear Jens is no long a participating member. A moment of silence... he will be greatly missed!!! :smitty:
I did not apply any anti-squeal spray on the surface of the rotors. To me, it seems a thin film on the rotor will diminesh brakeing. I did, however, put some ant-squeal gel on the back side of the rotor. Don't know if I put too little because it really didn't help.
What I did do, and this seemed to help a little, is swap the left and right pads. Not sure if this really matters, but I do notice a little less squeal.
As for the bed in process, I believe I properly broke in the pads and rotors. I have about 1k miles thus far on these pads. Is it too late to follow the strict bed in process?? To date, I have yet to really STOMP on the brakes.
Thanks
-Rich
I did not apply any anti-squeal spray on the surface of the rotors. To me, it seems a thin film on the rotor will diminesh brakeing. I did, however, put some ant-squeal gel on the back side of the rotor. Don't know if I put too little because it really didn't help.
What I did do, and this seemed to help a little, is swap the left and right pads. Not sure if this really matters, but I do notice a little less squeal.
As for the bed in process, I believe I properly broke in the pads and rotors. I have about 1k miles thus far on these pads. Is it too late to follow the strict bed in process?? To date, I have yet to really STOMP on the brakes.
Thanks
-Rich
Originally Posted by Scrib
You should really put some squeak goo on...
Like:

Eventually it'll go away as the pads bed themselves more.
Like:

Eventually it'll go away as the pads bed themselves more.
-Rich
You shouldn't have to use a lot...
Give the pads some time. I have 4500 miles on my pads, and they still squeak. Performance pads and rotors tend to me a lot more noisy than others. It's part of the price you pay for performance.
Give the pads some time. I have 4500 miles on my pads, and they still squeak. Performance pads and rotors tend to me a lot more noisy than others. It's part of the price you pay for performance.
Originally Posted by rmarin2
I just recently installed Rotora Rotors with Axxis Ultimate pads on the front and rear of my TL-S.
I'm going to have to do this, too.
Are the "strict bedding procedures" universal (meaning if I google on it and print off instructions I won't screw up these pads or rotors?
As an aside, I'll be picking up my car at rush hour (from the shop doing the install) is stop and go traffic for the first 10 miles going to hurt anything?
Thanks!
Are the "strict bedding procedures" universal (meaning if I google on it and print off instructions I won't screw up these pads or rotors?
As an aside, I'll be picking up my car at rush hour (from the shop doing the install) is stop and go traffic for the first 10 miles going to hurt anything?
Thanks!
Try the link at the bottom...
Originally Posted by sundance_gold
I'm going to have to do this, too.
Are the "strict bedding procedures" universal (meaning if I google on it and print off instructions I won't screw up these pads or rotors?
As an aside, I'll be picking up my car at rush hour (from the shop doing the install) is stop and go traffic for the first 10 miles going to hurt anything?
Thanks!
Are the "strict bedding procedures" universal (meaning if I google on it and print off instructions I won't screw up these pads or rotors?
As an aside, I'll be picking up my car at rush hour (from the shop doing the install) is stop and go traffic for the first 10 miles going to hurt anything?
Thanks!
The bed in procedure varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. They basically follow a similar approach.
You should be able to call the brake pad vendor, distributor, or manufacturer and get the factory recommended bed-in procedure for the pads.
In the case of the stock Acura pads -- and there are the early ones and late ones -- you should just grab one of the bed-in procedures from Google and use that.
I basically took it easy on the pads for 1000 miles (I just tried to avoid stomping on the brakes and the 1000 miles was my choice.)
I then ran a series of stops from 70-80 to 40 MPH. I stepped on the pads pretty hard out on some open road. I did this about a dozen times and never let the car stop. I let the pads completely cool down each time and then repeated the process a number of times.
Some pads want you to "fade" them during the bed in process and some others will give off a bit of “stink”, but you need to check with the manufacturer. If your brake fluid is "stale," you could end up getting fade from old brake fluid filled with water; it does like to absorb a ton of it, and every day that goes by means more water mixed-in with the brake fluid. (So, if your brake fluid isn’t flushed or relatively new, you might be cautious about using any fade-driven technique.)
Recommendation:
Check with the manufacturer, or do a Google search with "Bed in" + "name of your pad here"
AND
LINK: http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/...rocedures.html
YMMV
Just a note about pads and noise. Jens installed the EBC "Greenstuff" pads, front Comptech cross-drilled rotors and SS brake lines and have not had any squeal from them since new.....believe they are Kevlar based, perhaps that's why....
Originally Posted by blader
^^um ..... comptech manufactures drilled rotors? not that I see in the products list of their site.
http://www.comptechusa.com/store/4306015cl.html
I'm not aware of any "rotor" only packages...
And, while many have suffered squeals, warps, and other problems with their Acura brakes, I've been spared and the brakes do NOT squeal and have not warped. They do like to leave plenty of dust on the front wheels...

OTOH, I don't take them to the track and get the to glow red and try to keep idiots with impact guns set to 1000 pounds away from the wheels.
^^I know they sold the Brembo kit, however I am not so sure if they still do. If you go to the main www.comptechusa.com site, then click Products, then click 3.2 CL, then click Brake Upgrades, it is no longer listed there.
My stock brakes left little to no dust. However my axxis pads leave alot. I'm not sure why your stock brakes left so much dust?
My stock brakes left little to no dust. However my axxis pads leave alot. I'm not sure why your stock brakes left so much dust?
OK...I was just out on the web looking for bed in procedures for Axxis Ultimates and Rotora rotors. Is there any validity in Axxis's claim that their Ultimate pads are pre-treated and therefore don't require bedding-in?
Originally Posted by blader
^^I know they sold the Brembo kit, however I am not so sure if they still do. If you go to the main www.comptechusa.com site, then click Products, then click 3.2 CL, then click Brake Upgrades, it is no longer listed there.
My stock brakes left little to no dust. However my axxis pads leave alot. I'm not sure why your stock brakes left so much dust?
My stock brakes left little to no dust. However my axxis pads leave alot. I'm not sure why your stock brakes left so much dust?
Hmmm....
Here is my link process *and* they are still listing the kit. Now as to weather they will actually sell something that they still show on their website is something that a phone call will reveal.
So, here's the link trail (from last to first)
Brake Kit, Brembo 13", Front (01-03 CL-S)
Brembo Evolution Brake Kits
Acura 3.2CL
http://www.comptechusa.com/products.html
http://www.comptechusa.com/
So, it's still up on their web pages. Was at 1:39PM PST and was at around 3AM in the morning...
Just the facts…
Originally Posted by blader
^^I know they sold the Brembo kit, however I am not so sure if they still do. If you go to the main www.comptechusa.com site, then click Products, then click 3.2 CL, then click Brake Upgrades, it is no longer listed there.
My stock brakes left little to no dust. However my axxis pads leave alot. I'm not sure why your stock brakes left so much dust?
My stock brakes left little to no dust. However my axxis pads leave alot. I'm not sure why your stock brakes left so much dust?
It is no longer listed there because it has moved to its own link. hehe
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