Attn: Folks with Helms Manual and a Couple Min to Spare.
#1
Honkey
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Attn: Folks with Helms Manual and a Couple Min to Spare.
Dear Acura Enthusiast,
I was curious if anyone would be so kind as to scan a couple pages from their Helms repair manual for me. I'm looking for directions on replacing the outer CV boot on the passenger side of a 2001 Acura CL-P. Thank you for your time.
-Aaron
I was curious if anyone would be so kind as to scan a couple pages from their Helms repair manual for me. I'm looking for directions on replacing the outer CV boot on the passenger side of a 2001 Acura CL-P. Thank you for your time.
-Aaron
#2
Racer
Hey Aaron, a friend has my camera, so can't snap pics for you. You need pics of the remove & installation. What about rebuilding the shafts? Or are you just getting a new one?
Here's the steps for removal:
1) Raise vehicle, remove wheel.
2) Raise the locking tab on the spindle nut, then remove the nut. (That's the big one in the center of the rotor, it will be fairly tight. May need to loosen it up before you jack up the car, by removing the center cap in your wheel.)
3) Drain transmission fluid (note: I didn't have to do this in my friend's Accord, but it had the same instruction...)
4) Remove the self-locking nut and 10mm flange bolts, then remove the damper fork. (That's the piece that holds the bottom of the strut, and goes around the drive shaft)
5) Remove cotter pin from the lower arm ball joint castle nut and remove the nut. (Below the rotor you can see where the spindle attaches to the control arm)
6) Separate the ball joint from the lower arm with the 'special tool' (Can use just a good 2 or 3 jaw puller to pop the ball joint off.)
7) Remove the driveshaft outboard joint from the front wheel hub using a plastic hammer. (Tap the drive shaft out of the spindle from the middle of the rotor.)
8) Pry the inboard joint with a prybar and remove the driveshaft from the differential case or bearing support as an assembly. Do not pull on the driveshaft, because the inboard joint may come apart. Draw the driveshaft straight out to avoid damaging the differential oil seal or the immediate shaft outer seal.
I should be getting the camera back tomorrow, so if you still need them, let me know...
Here's the steps for removal:
1) Raise vehicle, remove wheel.
2) Raise the locking tab on the spindle nut, then remove the nut. (That's the big one in the center of the rotor, it will be fairly tight. May need to loosen it up before you jack up the car, by removing the center cap in your wheel.)
3) Drain transmission fluid (note: I didn't have to do this in my friend's Accord, but it had the same instruction...)
4) Remove the self-locking nut and 10mm flange bolts, then remove the damper fork. (That's the piece that holds the bottom of the strut, and goes around the drive shaft)
5) Remove cotter pin from the lower arm ball joint castle nut and remove the nut. (Below the rotor you can see where the spindle attaches to the control arm)
6) Separate the ball joint from the lower arm with the 'special tool' (Can use just a good 2 or 3 jaw puller to pop the ball joint off.)
7) Remove the driveshaft outboard joint from the front wheel hub using a plastic hammer. (Tap the drive shaft out of the spindle from the middle of the rotor.)
8) Pry the inboard joint with a prybar and remove the driveshaft from the differential case or bearing support as an assembly. Do not pull on the driveshaft, because the inboard joint may come apart. Draw the driveshaft straight out to avoid damaging the differential oil seal or the immediate shaft outer seal.
I should be getting the camera back tomorrow, so if you still need them, let me know...
#3
Honkey
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I appreciate the directions Mr EricS, however, a kind gentleman going by the alias "tinman" is letting my borrow his helms manual. The whole process looks pretty easy, but I may need to buy a couple special tools. Thanks again
-Aaron
-Aaron
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