I did a couple of searches but all I found were comparisons between OEM, aftermarket, and Raxles. The job looks pretty straightforward but a post from someone who has done it would be helpful.

 

I did both axles back in 2010. There was some difficulty getting my driver side axle out as discussed in the thread below:

https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...ration-794328/

Otherwise it was a straight forward operation. At the time I went with Raxles because the OEM replacements from Acura where priced in the $600 range each. In 2010 the raxles ran about $400 shipped, if they had them. If you go raxles, you will have to send the OEM cores back to get the core charge credit. Now the OEM's are competitively priced and you can get them for about $156-$200 each, last time I checked.

If you go to the cheaper China knockoffs at your local Autozone, o'Riely, Advanced auto you may find yourself redoing the job 3,5,10K miles down the road due to potential failure; however, usually they come with a lifetime warranty, so the cost of the replacement would be zero should that happen.

Acura Parts @ AcuraOEMparts.com - Genuine Acura OEM Parts from Delray Acura

If you don't have a service manual handy, you can get a pdf download from the website below for cheap:

Acura CL 3.2 2001, 2002, 2003 Service Repair Manual PDF Download | AutoManualSource

 

fastest way is to jack car up or lift it
remove wheel
remove axle nut
remove ball joint
turn wheel and slide axle out

reverse to install

 

YouTube ericthecarguy's axle replacement DIY video. Best to replace the castle nuts, pins, and axle nuts.

 

I have a pdf of the TL but there were no 6MT TL's right? I bought new seals to replace any seals that looked like they might be necessary.
I did buy aftermarket and I will be disappointed if I only get 3000-10000 miles out of them. I'm new to FWD but everything I've read about CV axles is that a torn boot is the root of all evil.
Wait... I've already removed the wheel

And ericthecarguy rocks.

 

Correct, no 6MT TL's. That manual should give you the general process.

You are referring to the axle seals at the tranny case?

In regards to the aftermarket axles, make sure they are the same length for each respective side. They probably will not have the 'dynamic damper' #16 & 17 on the Delray parts link above, so beware.

There are mixed reviews, to say the least. Since you have already purchased them, they should be fine. If you have any problems like differences in the lengths of the axle assemblies or subsequent vibrations after install down the road, be sure to update your thread.

https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...v-axle-862023/

Good Luck!

 

Two potential problems with this simple job:

The lower ball joint is a BITCH! to remove. I always tear the boot even with the correct tool (can buy at Harbor Freight).

The axle can be stubborn going back in. You just need to line up the circular pin correctly and keep trying. Sometimes it goes in the first try, sometimes it takes 20+ tries.

 

The ball joint is definitely a bitch. What I do now is fully compress the suspension with a floor jack, then hammer a long socket between the control arm/spindle & release the jack fast. Pops the ball joint every time with no damage.

 

vibrate it out with an impact hammer. comes out every time