TypeIIGhost

So its time for another mod on my cl-s. One i have never done so i need all the input u guys have on it, what to expect during install, what kinda gains / differnce it will make overall im my cl-s. The mod is unorthodox lightwieght pullies stock dia! pic enclosed.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

stock diameter means you use the belts you already have. The crank pulley is tough to get off. Are you doing the install yourself? My crank bolt had to be heated to get it off. Pretty straight forward. Expect faster revs. You'll enjoy it.

TypeIIGhost

I hope that my tranny isnt fucked, saw that quote under your post.Its planned that i will be doing the install myself.So i will reach higher revs faster? Maybe this will help the car in the higher speeds cuz thats where it losses its power.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

loses its power?? umm it build power until like 6700 chief..

but yea the car revs up faster and u will like it

bwhiting

where did you pick up the pulley set?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

no, it only helps during 1st gear.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

That Quote Was Just A joke, Don't Worry. Unless You Have An Auto, Lol.

You May Need To Use A Breaker Bar Method To Get The crank bolt Off. YouTube It.

Stephen00TL

The Crank pulley is where your goig to get the power from 8-10 hp if I remember correctly. The alternator and power steering are good for maybe 1-2 tops. It allows the engine to rev more freely and lets you get to vtec quicker where you make the most power at. I can't really help on the install I paid my mechanic 40$ for the install. The torque spec for the crank pulley is 181 lb ft

FwC

iTrader: (1)

To be honest, you won't be able to torque it to spec because the new pulley doesn't have the 52mm tool adapter opening. I just used an electric impact for like 10 or 20 seconds on the crank bolt when installing the new pulley. Use some oil on the threads and the washer that presses up against the crank pulley. The bolt for the alternator pulley removal is somewhat difficult, you will need angled deep wrenches to reach the bolt and another wrench to hold the pulley from spinning, remove the belt first. Since you're practically taking off the power steering pump to get that pulley and belt off, then redo all the seals in the pump if it hasn't been done yet.
I did all of this in correlation with a full suspension rebuild and timing belt since it's just a few more layers of difficulty past the crank pulley removal.
I have an auto and the first month or so, the engine was boggy and showed delayed acceleration with poor mpg. But I think the ECU adapted and the response at mid to high range is AMAZING. IDK what's with my low range but it seems somewhat laggy.

GOOD LUCK AND ENJOY THE GAINS!!!

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

how does the ECU get involved with a change of pulley?

fsttyms1

Actually its there in all gears, its just as speed increases 10hp is really hard to feel

fsttyms1

Untrue. You can torque it to the specified torque. You have to remove the inspection plate to the trans and hold the flex plate/flywheel

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

really? I thought the gearing only took advantage of 1st.

teach me, wise one!

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

only first gear?^^^ not quite

before i got my flywheel for my previous car i did a LOT of research!... weight saving mods that work off rotational mass gets less effective through upshifting gears is a flywheel upgrade because it is only weight savings which means per each gear as a ratio it decreases in effectiveness.. now a flywheel also takes a shit load of punishment off the main bearings and makes shifting WAY more finicky because the clutch can grab the shit outta it with ease.

(when i installed the flywheel first gear became MUTANT fast, and the 2nd was so so and 3rd was literally NO different. it was BEYOND clear that the gains withered away)

i don't think many people know about this though with regards to rotational mass loss. now this rule does not apply to certain weight shavings like lighter wheels for example..

it's not a very black and white subject

i would imagine the pulleys would be the same. however the underdriving pullies should give you a constant/static gain no matter what the gear because it is physically releasing drag within the workings of the motor at all times..

im sure people are going to disagree with me but i couldn't care less because i spent weeks researching and talking to people who raced.. etc before i made my purchase..

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

I view the pulley like the flywheel.
in first gear it'll have the most effect and 3rd and fourth will have no effect.


no????

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

theoretically it would do very little the faster you go. but if it's an underdrive then u have gains all the time.

that's why i see no point in getting the pulley/pulleys if it's not underdriven.
i got the option cheapo underdrive pulley and could not be happier.. it def gave power all around.

i never have had simply a lightweight pully i have always opted for the underdrive

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^gotcha, we were talking about two different things.

I was talking about the stock diameter light weight pulley, while you guys are talking about the underdrive.

I can see how the under drive would allow it free up power throughout the gears

FwC

iTrader: (1)

Yea, I didn't go that route during removal so I didn't bother trying it. But it's still working fine as far as I know with the impact gun method.

FwC

iTrader: (1)

I was talking about stock diameter pulley.

I have an automatic. One thing I did lose and miss after this mod is the downshift from cruising speed and the roar at WOT after the engine has revved up and the power has transferred from the engine to the wheels. There's the feeling you get when the engine roars and you get sucked into your seat as the speed of the car catches up to the engine speed. Instead you accelerate more evenly throughout the downshift.

Not sure if that makes sense but those with auto's and this mod should know what I'm talking about.

TypeIIGhost

I picked up the alternator and power steering set for excelerate preformance. The crank pulley isnt made anymore ,so i sourced it threw are beautiful blackmarket section off a fellow member. But i just saw a post for a group buy on the crank pulley for are 2g cl/tl so u can luck out there for now.

TypeIIGhost

The ecu has to adapt to the way the car will now run cuz its programed to stock specs. As a example i did my new exhaust system headers to muffers the car would shut off all the time at first after about 2-3 days it stopped and never did it again. In that time the ecu was adjusting to all the new readings it was recieving and changing other things to accomadate. Thats what i have gathered on the subject.