AEM v.s INJEN CAI
AEM v.s INJEN CAI
hey guys i know i'm probably asking a stupid question but I want to know which CAI does everyone recommend for my cl type s? also my firend has a newer prelude and we trying to decide which is better HP wise, as well as quality . What's the deal w/ the warrenty if we do this too?
Thanks..
Thanks..
the gains are identical, but designs are differnt. the AEM one is little longer and sits lower * known to get poked w/ the bottom plastic clip making a hole*
one reason why I went w/ Injen. Also injen's seem to dyno higher on some cars like celica gts
one reason why I went w/ Injen. Also injen's seem to dyno higher on some cars like celica gts
Re: AEM v.s INJEN CAI
Originally posted by M.Bond
hey guys i know i'm probably asking a stupid question but I want to know which CAI does everyone recommend for my cl type s?
hey guys i know i'm probably asking a stupid question but I want to know which CAI does everyone recommend for my cl type s?
If you DONT live in CA, save the few bucks and get an Injen...in CA..get the AEM. I'm quite the opposite and bought the Injen, but also live in CA. DOH!
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Re: Re: AEM v.s INJEN CAI
Originally posted by edgalang
A pipe is a pipe is a pipe...except 1 has a cool little CARB sticker that I want. If I had my way, I'd want an Injen pipe, but the breather hoses placed in such a way that you can use the stock hoses/clamps. Then put an inverted K&N filter at the base (which is better then the ones that come with the injen/aem) and finish it off with an AEM CARB sticker placed nicely on the top.
If you DONT live in CA, save the few bucks and get an Injen...in CA..get the AEM. I'm quite the opposite and bought the Injen, but also live in CA. DOH!
A pipe is a pipe is a pipe...except 1 has a cool little CARB sticker that I want. If I had my way, I'd want an Injen pipe, but the breather hoses placed in such a way that you can use the stock hoses/clamps. Then put an inverted K&N filter at the base (which is better then the ones that come with the injen/aem) and finish it off with an AEM CARB sticker placed nicely on the top.
If you DONT live in CA, save the few bucks and get an Injen...in CA..get the AEM. I'm quite the opposite and bought the Injen, but also live in CA. DOH!
Originally posted by Nashua_Night_Hawk
Cancel it and Get the new V2 version.. at least you can try something new!!!
Cancel it and Get the new V2 version.. at least you can try something new!!!
I couldnt agree more. But ya...if you can get the Injen with a CARB sticker...then I would rank that higher than the AEM. But personally, Id get the V2 just so you can have bragging rights of having something different.
Originally posted by Nashua_Night_Hawk
Cancel it and Get the new V2 version.. at least you can try something new!!!
Cancel it and Get the new V2 version.. at least you can try something new!!!
AEM link:
http://www.aempower.com/application/...pplication.htm
CL/TL has an V2 part # of 24-6016
2001 - 2003 CLS/TLS (manual and/or auto) have a no part numbers for the V2. The "regular" (non-V2) version of the CAI has a part # of 21-419. (The 2003 CLS manual has a part # of 21-509).
If you go with the AEM and don't want to rub the hood liner, check the following out:
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...threadid=86960
Look at the excerpted posting from rdsandy; following the directions given there (or a suitable variation) will insure that the hood liner doesn't get a good "rub down."
Originally posted by M.Bond
i'm not getting a straight answer here...man this sucks....
i'm not getting a straight answer here...man this sucks....
here it is, the straight facts~
if you want chrome, get the injen.
if you want silver/blue/red, get the aem.
and if you drive through 12"+ puddles, get the bypass valve.
btw, i have the aem, no bypass
Originally posted by mattg
here it is, the straight facts~
if you want chrome, get the injen.
if you want silver/blue/red, get the aem.
and if you drive through 12"+ puddles, get the bypass valve.
btw, i have the aem, no bypass
here it is, the straight facts~
if you want chrome, get the injen.
if you want silver/blue/red, get the aem.
and if you drive through 12"+ puddles, get the bypass valve.
btw, i have the aem, no bypass
ok, there is no v2 for the cl-s, only the cl-p, and i herd the v2 doesnt even produce bigger gains
so i'm happy w/ my purchase
btw, do i need to take the front bumper off to install this thing, where can i get instructions from??
so i'm happy w/ my purchase
btw, do i need to take the front bumper off to install this thing, where can i get instructions from??
Originally posted by darrinb
ok, there is no v2 for the cl-s, only the cl-p, and i herd the v2 doesnt even produce bigger gains
so i'm happy w/ my purchase
btw, do i need to take the front bumper off to install this thing, where can i get instructions from??
ok, there is no v2 for the cl-s, only the cl-p, and i herd the v2 doesnt even produce bigger gains
so i'm happy w/ my purchase
btw, do i need to take the front bumper off to install this thing, where can i get instructions from??
Instructions for the AEM + bypass (with pictures):
http://wizardsworks.org/chod/acura/cai/printme.html
http://wizardsworks.org/chod/acura/cai/
I left the "quoted" section (further up this thread) and you should have a look at it to make your install PERFECT if you are going to install the AEM CAI.
If you follow the CHOD installation, you will see the following:
Look just to the left and back of the red battery boot and you will see a black tube and a y-shaped set of hoses exiting what looks to be a hose (it's a pipe). THE AEM people installed mine this way -- althought the TB hose was much lower down -- and it caused "rubbing" to occur. PLEASE refer to the section I left BELOW' if you want to avoid giving your hood liner a "rubdown".
I found this, but the picture links are dead.
Here is the link to the photo album (use this to replace the missing pictures in the quoted section below):
http://public.fotki.com/rdsandy/cai/
Originally posted by rdsandy
OK,
Here are some pics I took of the installation. I will try to explain about removing the OEM breather pipe.
The two hoses running to the right of the circles are the hoses supplied by AEM. For the big one, remove the hose clamp that is to the left of the circle, under the valve cover shroud. This hose connected to the OEM pipe about 1/2 in diameter that ran to the OEM filter connector or the "accordian thingy" as someone so aptly dubbed it. Welded to this, running along side of the 1/2" pipe, was a smaller pipe. This pipe is removed (watch for antifreeze spill, I got about 1 ounce) as well and is replaced by the small hose supplied by AEM.
The upper circle shows where the other end of the small AEM supplied hose connects.
The lower circle shows the existing OEM hose connecting to the small tube of the AEM pipe.
The far left circle shows a 1/4 turn screw that holds the valve cover shroud. There is one more further left, not shown. These two have to be removed to get to the 1/2 inch hose clamp.
The middle circle shows a foam sleeve that was on the original pipe. I removed it and put it over the new hose as a chafe guard.
The lower right circle shows where a hardware store supplied, 5/16 barb to barb end, brass fitting was used to connect the AEM small hose to the OEM hose from under the throttle body.
A close up of the barbed fitting connection. You can't see the brass fitting. I used the OEM clamps instead of the AEM supplied hose clamps.
I removed the original AEM decal, since the bypass valve totally ruins it. I took one of the supplied decals and laid it across the pipe to kind of "hide" the scuffs from the hacksaw job.
The circle shows the large hose connection. The hose is routed under the AEM pipe.
Notice the ty-rap I used to secure the cruise control cable to keep it from flapping around. The clip that originally did that was useless without the OEM air filter box so I removed it.
BTW, Ryan who emailed me if these pics aren't what your looking for let me know.
[ 08-07-2001: Message edited by: rdsandy ]
OK,
Here are some pics I took of the installation. I will try to explain about removing the OEM breather pipe.
The two hoses running to the right of the circles are the hoses supplied by AEM. For the big one, remove the hose clamp that is to the left of the circle, under the valve cover shroud. This hose connected to the OEM pipe about 1/2 in diameter that ran to the OEM filter connector or the "accordian thingy" as someone so aptly dubbed it. Welded to this, running along side of the 1/2" pipe, was a smaller pipe. This pipe is removed (watch for antifreeze spill, I got about 1 ounce) as well and is replaced by the small hose supplied by AEM.
The upper circle shows where the other end of the small AEM supplied hose connects.
The lower circle shows the existing OEM hose connecting to the small tube of the AEM pipe.
The far left circle shows a 1/4 turn screw that holds the valve cover shroud. There is one more further left, not shown. These two have to be removed to get to the 1/2 inch hose clamp.
The middle circle shows a foam sleeve that was on the original pipe. I removed it and put it over the new hose as a chafe guard.
The lower right circle shows where a hardware store supplied, 5/16 barb to barb end, brass fitting was used to connect the AEM small hose to the OEM hose from under the throttle body.
A close up of the barbed fitting connection. You can't see the brass fitting. I used the OEM clamps instead of the AEM supplied hose clamps.
I removed the original AEM decal, since the bypass valve totally ruins it. I took one of the supplied decals and laid it across the pipe to kind of "hide" the scuffs from the hacksaw job.
The circle shows the large hose connection. The hose is routed under the AEM pipe.
Notice the ty-rap I used to secure the cruise control cable to keep it from flapping around. The clip that originally did that was useless without the OEM air filter box so I removed it.
BTW, Ryan who emailed me if these pics aren't what your looking for let me know.
[ 08-07-2001: Message edited by: rdsandy ]
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