Acura clarifies the definition of a transmission flush
#1
Acura clarifies the definition of a transmission flush
From the January 2008 ServiceNews:
Remember, Honda does not require that the transmission be flushed (as outlined in the above procedure) if you are just performing routine maintenance on the transmission.
Some A/T repair procedures call for flushing the trans using Acura Precision Crafted ATF-Z1 (and no
substitutes). Problem is, where do you find the info to do that? It’s not listed in the S/Ms and if you do an
ISIS search, you’ll find a few ServiceNews articles on this subject, but they’re rather dated, and none of
them say the same thing.
NOTE: The term “flushing” refers to repeatedly draining and refilling the trans with Acura Precision Crafted ATF-Z1. Don’t confuse it with aftermarket flush systems. American Honda still strongly recommends that you avoid using them on any Acura vehicle. The original procedure was written for simpler A/Ts that readily upshifted when you ran the vehicle on a lift. But A/Ts have come a long way since then, and most of the newer ones balk at shifting past 2nd gear when on a lift, unless you work the shift lever a certain way. In light of all this, we thought it was high time that the A/T flushing procedure got a facelift. So here’s the latest word on flushing that works for all A/Ts:
1. Set the parking brake, and raise the vehicle on a lift.
2. Drain the trans, and refill it with Acura Precision Crafted ATF-Z1. Refer to the applicable S/M or to ISIS
for details.
3. Start the engine, shift into Drive, and release the parking brake.
4. Push down on the accelerator pedal to raise the vehicle speed to 2,500 rpm.
• If the trans shifts past 2nd gear, go to step 5.
• If the trans won’t shift past 2nd gear, keep the engine speed at 2,500 rpm and shift from Drive to
Neutral and back to Drive. Then go to step 5.
5. Make sure that the trans shifts through all the forward gears and goes into torque converter lockup.
6. Let off the accelerator pedal, and press the brake pedal to drop the vehicle speed to zero. Shift into
Reverse and then into Neutral.
7. Shift into Drive, and repeat steps 4 thru 6 four more times.
8. Set the parking brake, and repeat steps 2 thru 6 two more times.
9. Drain the trans, and reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer.
10. Refill the A/T with ATF-Z1.
substitutes). Problem is, where do you find the info to do that? It’s not listed in the S/Ms and if you do an
ISIS search, you’ll find a few ServiceNews articles on this subject, but they’re rather dated, and none of
them say the same thing.
NOTE: The term “flushing” refers to repeatedly draining and refilling the trans with Acura Precision Crafted ATF-Z1. Don’t confuse it with aftermarket flush systems. American Honda still strongly recommends that you avoid using them on any Acura vehicle. The original procedure was written for simpler A/Ts that readily upshifted when you ran the vehicle on a lift. But A/Ts have come a long way since then, and most of the newer ones balk at shifting past 2nd gear when on a lift, unless you work the shift lever a certain way. In light of all this, we thought it was high time that the A/T flushing procedure got a facelift. So here’s the latest word on flushing that works for all A/Ts:
1. Set the parking brake, and raise the vehicle on a lift.
2. Drain the trans, and refill it with Acura Precision Crafted ATF-Z1. Refer to the applicable S/M or to ISIS
for details.
3. Start the engine, shift into Drive, and release the parking brake.
4. Push down on the accelerator pedal to raise the vehicle speed to 2,500 rpm.
• If the trans shifts past 2nd gear, go to step 5.
• If the trans won’t shift past 2nd gear, keep the engine speed at 2,500 rpm and shift from Drive to
Neutral and back to Drive. Then go to step 5.
5. Make sure that the trans shifts through all the forward gears and goes into torque converter lockup.
6. Let off the accelerator pedal, and press the brake pedal to drop the vehicle speed to zero. Shift into
Reverse and then into Neutral.
7. Shift into Drive, and repeat steps 4 thru 6 four more times.
8. Set the parking brake, and repeat steps 2 thru 6 two more times.
9. Drain the trans, and reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer.
10. Refill the A/T with ATF-Z1.
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AjTooLive (06-09-2014)
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#9
That is the case with any carmaker. When it comes to trannys, rearends you want to chnge the oil, not flush the system. I have heard so many horor stories about people have no problems till after they have flushed their systems.
It's like the old saying, if it ain't broke. But you do want to change the fluids periodically.
It's like the old saying, if it ain't broke. But you do want to change the fluids periodically.
#10
i think it's cause when those people with the horror stories wait 50k or more, anything is possible.
Only if u do short intervals with the 3x3 method.. like 30k.. then you really shouldn't have a problem.
my cousin is one with the horror story also. not horror really, but it's not as good as b4 lol. he waited 70-80000 kms
Only if u do short intervals with the 3x3 method.. like 30k.. then you really shouldn't have a problem.
my cousin is one with the horror story also. not horror really, but it's not as good as b4 lol. he waited 70-80000 kms
#11
bumped for 2012
fsttyms1 and mod(s) would you say this is still the best way to change our 2Gens in 2012?
I remember JensH posted the 3 X 3 method.
Which one should i do? 2001 CLS last changed about 110K now at 142K.
edited: D'oh!
Is this the 3 X 3 method?
fsttyms1 and mod(s) would you say this is still the best way to change our 2Gens in 2012?
I remember JensH posted the 3 X 3 method.
Which one should i do? 2001 CLS last changed about 110K now at 142K.
edited: D'oh!
Is this the 3 X 3 method?
Last edited by NighthawkBlue; 02-17-2012 at 12:28 PM. Reason: 3 X 3 and this one and the same?
#12
I'm a new owner of a 2002 Acura RL and the manual says to flush it at 120k or 72 months. I bought it with 72k and recently did a 3x3 flush. I decided to do the flush cuz the fluid was brownish. Anyways, why would the manual recomm. 120k?? That seems awfully a long time... Unless I'm reading it wrong...
#14
#16
^
I know but OP Soda wrote:
"Remember, Honda does not require that the transmission be flushed (as outlined in the above procedure) if you are just performing routine maintenance on the transmission."
So is 1 X 3 good enough if doing every 30?
And as princelybug noted "Remember, this is from January of '08."
Don't get me wrong, if we can't come to an authoratative consensus conclusion I'll just do the 3 X 3. In fact i just bought 10 quarts so as to be ready.
I know but OP Soda wrote:
"Remember, Honda does not require that the transmission be flushed (as outlined in the above procedure) if you are just performing routine maintenance on the transmission."
So is 1 X 3 good enough if doing every 30?
And as princelybug noted "Remember, this is from January of '08."
Don't get me wrong, if we can't come to an authoratative consensus conclusion I'll just do the 3 X 3. In fact i just bought 10 quarts so as to be ready.
#17
Sodaluvr is simply quoting Honda. Honda is not going to tell 2G CL/TL owners specifically to change out their ATF more frequently. ATF-Z1 wears out quickly. Fresh fluid will help prevent transmission failure, which we're already extremely prone to. Your welcome to do a 1x3 or follow the service intervals in the service manual but I want my transmission to last as long as possible. I also prefer to use OEM fluid. These are my reasons why I do a 3x3 around every 30k
#20
correct get 9 quarts and a few more if possible. never hurts to have a little extra
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