JRock

I had my dad watch it for me and he can see the actuator turn at around 3800rpm, but we don't hear any metallic "clink" sound when it moves (how the hell do you hear anything over the engine anyway?).

I tried manually moving the actuator. Am I supposed to hear some loud "clink" then too? Because I don't.

So maybe my actuator's working but it's not opening the plenum? Or maybe it's all working fine? Who knows. I might as well take it to the dealer and let them pop open the engine and see for sure.

-J

------------------
2001 CL-S Aegean Blue/black interior spoiler, wheel locks, no-navi
Stock for now.

EricL

The actuator itself makes the click -- it at least it does in my car.

I stuck my index finger under the unit (under and towards the back and can feel "movement"). I didn't inspect the plenum.

From the responses here, the bulk of the problems seem to be with the actuator, but who knows. (They could have installed a micro switch, but that would have cost more $$$)


BTW -- the actuation speed seems to be different for different users -- mine doesn't engage until OVER 4000 rpm (so says my wife).

BTW2 -- I definitely hear the click of the actuator and I have the CAI (but I have the hood open and am listening carefully)

------------------
Silver 2001 CL-S with NAVI

• Mud guards
• Wheel locks
• Toyo T1S 235/45ZR17-97W* Proxies on 17x8" SSR Competition wheels (48lbs less than stock)
• Kevlar/SS Brake lines w/Brembos?
• Comptech headers & sways
• Silver AEM CAI
• 10 coats of Zaino magic

JRock

Oh yeah, there's a TINY click when I move it. Ok, I guess it's all right then.

-J

------------------
2001 CL-S Aegean Blue/black interior spoiler, wheel locks, no-navi
Stock for now.

mrdeeno

for those of you that have opened your manifold, how mechanically (un)likely could the actuator work but not open the valve?

EricL

Is this a trick question?



------------------
Silver 2001 CL-S with NAVI

• Mud guards
• Wheel locks
• Toyo T1S 235/45ZR17-97W* Proxies on 17x8" SSR Competition wheels (48lbs less than stock)
• Kevlar/SS Brake lines w/Brembos?
• Comptech headers & sways
• Silver AEM CAI
• 10 coats of Zaino magic

JRock

I think it's a good question - how strong is the rest of the actuating system - would a working actuator be a (near) guarantee the plenum is opening?

-J

------------------
2001 CL-S Aegean Blue/black interior spoiler, wheel locks, no-navi
Stock for now.

EricL

I think one of the "members" had a case of the actuator moving but not working the "plates" inside the plenum. I don't think this was a known or proven "event", but I think Jens and others chimed in about it being possible (not probable).

However, there does seem to be a real problem with the bloody actuators. I don't know if it is the drive mechanism or the electronic driver, but they are failing at a rather high rate. Didn't someone post the comment about the actuators being back ordered for 3 months (or some sh*t like that).

So, I'm sure it would be possible to have a bad cable (and other linkage failures), but current "facts" support the actuator as being the "main" culprit in lost top end performance.

Finally, this is really a nasty problem -- a driver with a bad actuator could actually put on a set of headers and end up slower than a properly functioning stock car with NO MODS!!!!!

This is a scary thought!


I'll bet that 99% of the failures are from the actuator with less than 1% from the cable or plates. (I haven't seen too many good quality throttle cables fail!)


BTW -- I was only half joking about the micro switch in the plenum. Another money making opportunity for someone.


------------------
Silver 2001 CL-S with NAVI

• Mud guards
• Wheel locks
• Toyo T1S 235/45ZR17-97W* Proxies on 17x8" SSR Competition wheels (48lbs less than stock)
• Kevlar/SS Brake lines w/Brembos?
• Comptech headers & sways
• Silver AEM CAI
• 10 coats of Zaino magic

[This message has been edited by EricL (edited 05-19-2001).]

mrdeeno

it was a real question, 'cuz the actuator moves the plates (valves). it's probably not likely 'cuz i think most of the problems iwth the actuator are partly eletrical related.

Ogolden1

Just take off the plastic cowling (4 bolts), then look at the end of the intake manifold, you can then see if the IMRC valve is turning! (it's where the cable goes to from the actuator)

sneak

alright, you'll have to excuse me, but I just got my CLS today. How do I know if I my "actuator" is working or not?

I'm a newbie owner who is far from being a mechanice.. If you could direct me in the right direction, that'd be great!

thanks

snEak

FDao

Sneak,

Open your hood. From the driver door looking behind the engine, there's a silver round looking mechanism. That's the actuator. Have someone rev your car till you see the actuator rotate. Have them tell you what rpm it was the moment the actuator rotated. As for determining if the plenum is opening with the rotation of the actuator, turn off the engine and manually rotate the actuator clockwise and release it back. You should be able to hear the clinking sound of the plenum closing.

------------------
Frank
01-S White/Parchment
Comptech Sways & Springs

Al Uminum

The quote about athree month waitfor replacing whatever needs replacing as concerns an unactuating actuator was I believe made by none other than StonedCL.
I also seem to remember a big winking smiley after he posted such.



------------------
"01" CL Type-S
White\Black
Comptech Springs
Comptech Sways
17x7.5 BBS RX Rims
Navigation System
Burlwood Shifter
Guards+Fenderwell Trim
PIAA16969
Smokers Package
My Car

JZ

The real problem here is that nobody except the members of this board probably have any idea that they could have a potentially bad actuator. I continue to wonder how many cars out there are affected. Hell, I would have had no idea mine was bad if it weren't for this board.

And the comment about having headers and a malfunctioning actuator was pretty close to being right on. I raced a working CLS in my car that had a non-working actuator with headers and we were dead even.

The only real way to check if the entire system is working is to take the car to the dyno and look at the graphs. If you have a huge lag from 3800 up then you are a candidate for having a bad actuator. I think it will be hard to have the dealer dissassemble the engine and make sure it is working unless there is a bulletin put out by Acura.

------------------
Black/black CLS
Comptech headers, springs, swaybars
Koni yellows
Polarg M6 road lamps
Solaris Hi beams
Potenza RE730 225/45/17
Red AEM CAI
Denso Iridium plugs
35% metallic tint

JRock

To the guy who JUST got his CL-S:

Wait a few days - maybe even a week. Do the break in period (or at least part of it) before you go high-revving the idle engine.

-J

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2001 CL-S Aegean Blue/black interior spoiler, wheel locks, no-navi
Stock for now.

ERNIE

Just for the hell of it I checked my ACTUATOR-it works. I was sure it worked,(yea right :~), but the posts made mean paranoid. I guess you would need a comparisons to really know...but
Shouldn't "us drivers" of CL Type-S know by merely driving the CL whether it works?

------------------
Ernie

mrdeeno

if an actuator doesn't work, is it still an actuator?

Al Uminum

Actually it's an unactuating actuator.



------------------
"01" CL Type-S
White\Black
Comptech Springs
Comptech Sways
17x7.5 BBS RX Rims
Navigation System
Burlwood Shifter
Guards+Fenderwell Trim
PIAA16969
Smokers Package
My Car

mrdeeno

i don't think it would be unactuating...'cuz it would have to work to do that...it would actuate at 3800rpm, and then unactuate when the rpms go below that.

if it doesn't work, then it is neither actuating or unactuating.

it is an non-actuating actuator.