I just did a bunch of work on the car and modified a few things. It took a week of working all day to get it all done. A thread on that is coming. I took pics of everything. 185 to be exact. I am thinking I am very very rich from looking at the plugs and the intake manifold. At idle I am running between 43-50psi of fuel with vacuum attached to the FPR. When I looked at the gauge under the hood at idle two days ago I was at 45psi and last night I was at 49psi at idle. All measurements are with the engine hot. I got the blower from a guy who was running it at 9psi and I sent the FPR and blower to Comtech for refrbishment and recalibration and I am wondering if they sent the FPR to me set way to high. I have been searching and reading for hours about idle fuel pressure with the stock 4.5psi pulley which I am still running. I have come up with mixed results and am uncertain about what psi I should be at. So my question to you experts and those with a Comptech blower running the stock 4.5psi pulley on a 6SPEED CLS, What is your fuel pressure at idle? I know I am way rich and will be getting a wide band o2 sensor soon but what are you running at idle with your stock pulley. I dont care about the guys with the auto trans and a blower. I will be going to the HBP soon, which I already have, and emanage ultimate but not for a while. Also, what psi are you running with the HBP with vac attached? My sig includes all recent mods. Thanks!

 

The entire upper intake was wet and dripping with some kind of clear fluid All the plugs were wet with some kind of clear liquid also. I have no idea what it was and i did not smell it. Here is me tonight for the second time I have looked at the fuel pressure with the engine hot and at idle. If feels strong but no wheel spin in second.

 

i knoe i wont b of any help since im auto & cause im having teh same problem...i will be buying a fuel pressure gauge soon...i running VERY rich

 

Call Comptech and ask them what the fuel pressure should be with the standard 3.0" pulley I forgot what it was exactly but your close. Then get your car tuned using a Greddy Emanage or something along those lines of a more advanced AFC not just the dinky ECM :p

 

I intend to get the emanage ultimate and get a tune but I know I am running so rich. When I floor it I have a cloud of black smoke behind me. I guess this is all subjective and I need to jsut get the wideband 02 on there and get the tune done. Anyway, what are you guys running your fuel pressure at idle and after driving and with what pulley? Thanks

 

Here's what mine reads:

With vacume line connected to FPR:



With vacume line pulled from FPR:

 

I'm having issues with the Comptech FPR on my SC'd V6 Accord. I have the gauge connected to the out line of the FPR (that's how the previous owner had it connected)...does that matter? I see here that everyone's got theirs hooked up before the FPR. Just for the record...my FP gauge is reading < 10psi @ warm idle. I have the CL-S HBP.

I think my FPR is the cause of the problem...and I've got one on order from Comptech. Would it be ok to remove the CT FPR and use the stock one for a few days while the other one gets here? I know I can't control the boost on the SC...but what about light-to-normal driving?

 

I just sent you the FPR PDF. DO NOT USE THE OEM FPR WITH THE BLOWER!

 

Hey can you send me the pdf too
nick10923@yahoo.com

So are the general pressure figures for the standard pulley then ~60psi w/o vacuum and 38psi w/vacuum?

 

Here's a link to download the Comptech FPR Instruction.

Right Click the link below and select "Save Target As..."

Comptech FPR Instructions

 

Thanks, but jproy already emailed me the pdf file

So no wheel spin in 2nd gear...

Have you considered tinkering with the caliber washers, and potentially increasing the amount of fuel relative to boost? Or maybe just getting an Aeromotive 1:1 FPR like SIRSIG and 02AV6.

BTW any pics on the SC port/polish, im in the process (albeit slow) of doing mine too.

 

I didn't post the link above for you only. THought I would make it available to the community. since I received other e-mail requests for this file

 

Dont clutter my thread with your links and what have you!

 

LOL - You're right. Let's get back on topic. So what readings are you getting now after you've readjusted.

 

If you are talking to me, I am now at 66 without vac and about 36-40 at idle. Things seem to be well but I am getting bored with the power. I will have to go to the HBP soon.

 

lmao! I concur with you. If my new exhaust setup doesnt give me more power after install 2morrow i will be going HBP with emanage

 

No doubt. I want to stick the HBP pulley on and see what happens but I dont think it is worth it (detonatnion etc...) . I am short of tuning funds and time at this second and am getting itchy. I think it will cost me about $1200 to do the Emanage ultimate and a pro tune at Jotech. Any thoughts?

 

Have you located any members that can help you tune it? Too bad Scalbert isn't around. He could do it and save you some bucks.

So what additional features does the Ultimate provide over the Blue?

 

HBP will put that smile back on your face. Breaking them loose in 2nd on a roll is a nice feeling.

 

I don’t know what the exact differences are or what the benefits are for the CLS. I will call Jotech and see what they can tell me. Someone who knows, please chime in. I have no idea who around here could help me tune it. I don’t know how comfortable I would be unless they could prove they know their shit. I couldn’t read your tune because I don’t have the software. Got any ideas on that? I would want to understand who it works first so I could be involved in the tune. All the people around here who have said they could have dropped the ball with a simple piece of info they should already know if they are qualified to do it right. I trust no one. Every time I do; a dealer, builder, just about any tech, I get screwed with results I can and could have done better just by reading the instructions. It is all too often that even all the training in the world cant top intelligence, common sense, and engineering know how.

I drove my car tonight and got on it through 2nd and 3rd. It’s still fast! It could go faster though and I would like to easily break them loose in 2nd. I wonder where I can get a emanage blue/ultimate and harness cheap? Thoughts?

 

Once you decide on Blue or Ultimate, I think Boomslang is the best place for the harness. Not sure if there are any other plug and play options. EBay is probably a good place to shop for the EManage. It'll give you the pricing range.

 

I intend to use the Boomslang. That thing is way to expensive and I know how to do wiring. Sucks. I will look on ebay now.

 

So any pics?

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=194519

 

I drove my car tonight and got on it through 2nd and 3rd. It’s still fast! It could go faster though and I would like to easily break them loose in 2nd. I wonder where I can get a emanage blue/ultimate and harness cheap? Thoughts?[/QUOTE]

I got lucky on the BM, just post a WTB, someone's bound to have one around

 

Your being extremely helpful lately

 

Can someone take a picture of how the mech. fuel pressure gaue looks installed from behind so I can see the fittings?

 

Is this what you're looking for?

 

Fuckin perfect Allout

I found some marshall gauges for $25, any place cheaper online after shipping or in person? So far in So Cal i've been to Baker Precision (the Neo oil place) and Deer Industries. Still looking for the best value on battery relocation, maybe a marine shop or just buy the witing on ebay?

Anyway I can run the car NA with the Comptech FPR while I wait, so long as I set it at the right FP it wont change much since it doesn't have boost to make it rise?

 

This is where I got mine. It's liquid filled to buffer the pulses in pressure.

If you're NA, Fuel pressure using the rising rate FPR will still increase but will stay in the pressure range with and without vacume line connected. You are correct that without boost, it won't get up to 90-100psi.

As far as battery relocation, take a look at how ThinJim did his. His is by far one of the cleanest reloations I've seen. See Post# 9
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...hinjim+battery

 

So concretely,

what are we recomending the fuel pressure be set at for the 3.0/3.28" pulleys?
So at least 35psi maybe up to 45psi? I noticed that on the J30A1 supercharged the difference in pressure with the vacuum line disconnected was minimal going from 43-55 give or take less so then what im seeing with our J32's any reason for that?

 

This is what mine is set at currently with the HBP and tuned with E-Manage. Shad didn't adjust the FPR at all when he tuned my car so it's the same settings using the standard SC pulley. He said that the only reason you would increase the fuel pressure was if you didn't have the ability to fine tune the lean spots out. You would increase the fuel pressure to richen up the lean spots but would be too rich in other parts of the range.

 

So how does the car run on that fuel pressure setting prior to tuning? Periodic and yet negligable misfires?

 

Seems to run fine. I think the Periodic and yet negligable misfires sums it up - mainly on a cold start.

 

I'll definitely try it out at 35psi and see how that goes if not a little higher and go down from a higher number.

 

a UEGO AEM A/F gauge could help also