I would love to know

 

I fine tuned my FPR on the dyno by watching the AFR trace. Took 5 minutes.

 

With the vacuum hooked up. My setup runs about 38 psi with 20 in of vac at idle.

 

Yeah that's about right. But in 20in/Hg not w/o vacuum.

 

Without a wideband O2 sensor and gauge or getting on a dyno it's not going to be possible to get the fuel pressure exactly perfect for your car. The numbers I have provided are the best guideline to get you up and running safely.

Since our fuel management for this kit is based solely on a rising rate FPR and high-flow pump I strongly recommend a electronic fuel pressure gauge which you can mount within the car.

 

Well I looked at the Autometer gauges. I have the 4377 boost/vac gauge. It is the ultra lite series. I will get matching ultra lite gauges but I want to know which ones I need. I am trying to spend as little as possible. My options seem to be;

4375 air fuel
http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugede...id=3083&sid=11

4378 wideband airfuel (why is the one above not wideband and what does that mean? Why do I need it and which is easiest?)
http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugede...id=3604&sid=11

For the Fuel pressure
either the one allout posted above or autometer 4363 (will I be able to tune if it is under the hood?)
http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugede...id=3121&sid=11


Is there a much cheaper way to do it right?

Thanks again guys.

 

So, any ideas. I got it alll together today and it is fast as hell!
Wow. I am going to do the HBP and the gauges together next.

 

Congrats

The whine is intoxicating isn't it. Don't forget to start saving for new front tires too

 

I found I had this picture hosted. Hope it helps:

 

I say skip the boost gauge and go with the wideband and the fuel pressure gauge.

It's a belt driven compressor. You can't over boost. And any belt slip is going to be felt and/or heard.

With this kit I would say monitoring fuel pressure is the #1 priority, then Air/Fuel, then finally boost.

 

Guys, I know how to adjust the FPR I jsut didnt know what to set it to. Now I know how and with what. I already have the boost gauge. It came with the blower. It is a 2-1/16" Autometer Ultra lite so I intend on sticking with that. I will get the fuel pressure gauge. Do I have to have the one in the car? Cant I just monitor the Wideband O2 gauge and it will tell me if there is a prob with the fuel pressure? I guess I will just get both in cabin fuel and wideband that match. Im just pissed it will be so expensive. does anyone want to buy my old s-speed 1-2-3-4 transmission gears and syncros for $200. They cost $750 new and mine look good.