jproy

Friday afternoon I started installing my Supercharger. Things are going well. The blower is in and the blower plumbing is done. I also reinstalled the NRG engine torque damper in the front and installed the one for the rear. The new plugs are in and I got the solid shift linkage bushings in. The clutch damper is out and engagement seems better. I have tested everything and all is working great so far. I have no vibration problems with the two engine dampers.

Of course I have a problem though. I NEED some advice from those of you who have put in a comptech supercharger yourself.

1. For the life of me I can’t figure out how I am going to get the bottom hex blower bracket bolt in and tight. It’s the bottom one closer to the back of the car. Is that one even necessary? The other 5 are in and tight.

2. I do not understand how to mount the FRP. The instructions are garbage. does the whole wiper trim panel have to come off? I am totally lost on this one. I looked at it for a while and pulled the little door on the wiper cover off and still just don’t get it.

3. The last things I have to do besides the FPR are the ESM and fuel pump.

I am fired up about getting behind the wheel. Thanks in advance for your input.
Jim.

Allout

Congrats Jim

1) I use a ball end hex wrench to tighten the lower bolts. You can angle it in and tighten the bolts.

2) I agree - the instructions on finding the mounting hole are vague. I was able to feel the mounting hole from the passenger side. I think the easier way is to remove the plastic cowl cover to access the hole. I did it with it on but it was a pain in the ass. When I installed my Comptech TI strut bar, I don't recall removing the cowl cover fully. I was able to remove all the fasteners and lift the cover up enough to get to the bolts. I was able to avoid removing the wipers and lift the cover enough.

Hope this helps.

Allout

Here's a link to the ball end hex at Sears

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00946274000




Also, don't forget to solder in the connections for the ESM.

jproy

I am going to pick up a set after work. Thanks.

jproy

So is there just one hole for mounting the FPR or are ther two? The FPR bracket has two holes. I found one hole under the cowl door.

03_Type_S

GL on the SC I envy you!

hemhaw

Also take off the upper radiator hose to get that bottom allen screw!

jproy

so do any of you know whether or not there are one or two bolts holding the FPR to the fire wall.

CLS6SpeedNupe

FINALLY...lol, you know what I am waiting for. Trying to run 13s by the end of the month.

Paclark01

If I remember correctly, there are two holding my FPR to the firewall. If you don't get a confirmed answer soon, I can look at my this evening and post later on tonight.

hemhaw

Only one in my installation, but it's an '01.

Accord_V6_400m

iTrader: (1)

I used one back in the day since it happened to go in that way and had no problems whatso ever.

You dont have to solder the connections on the ESM just get good electrical crimps, better ones for the signal and not so great for the power wire. Worked out for me. Fuel pump install is pretty easy and straight to the point.

The bottom hex can be reached and tightened with as mentioned before iwth the ball hex wrench.

Do you have any plans to get your car tuned with some sort of FCU?

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

^ No. Please solder the ESM connections. It only takes an additional 10 minutes at most and has been proven to eliminate problems. Comptech changed their parts to include solder clips for a reason.

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

I needed to remove the entire cowl in order to access the hole for the FPR install. Be careful while removing the wiper blade arms. You can easily damage the wiper motors if you aren't gentle with the wrench while removing and/or re-installing them. Also be sure to realign the wiper blade arms properly or you'll have problems when you go to use your wipers.

jproy

Guys,
Thanks again for all the input. Much of what I know about my car is because of great board members. I am going to solder the ESM. I do have a HBP in hand but didnt put it on for now. I dont have access to a good place for a tune that I know of around here. Maybe I could go to Houston, Dallas, Austin, or New Orleans one weekend and put the HBP on at one of your shops where this has been done before. Let me know if any of you have any ideas. Im sure it would be a good time. I have friends in all mentioned cities. Maybe a meet would be in order. As for a FCU, I forgot what that means but I plan on getting the car tuned on a dyno when I find someone with one who knows what the hell they are doing on a supercharged CLS.

Allout

I only recall one on mine too.

hemhaw

X1000

Allout

In regards to the HBP, what octane gasoline do you have access to/use?

jproy

I have 93 octane gas here.

Well I got the FPR done tonight. It only uses one bolt as I found out. It was easy.

That damn bottom hex bolt on the blower is just not going to go in. I got the ball hex set from sears. No use. When I sent the blower to Comptech to have it serviced I think they got liquid gasket in the threading and it just wont turn once it is 8 or so turns from all the way in, even with the ball hex. The other 5 are in tight and I dont think I need the sixth so to hell with it unless one of you can convince me otherwise.

I went to into the trunk after doing the FPR and began to change the fuel pump. For those of you who dont know, I got this supercharger used from a member here. Well after removing my fuel pump I found out that the bastard I got it from sent me his old OEM pump. The high flow Walboro is still in his tank and he is not very responsive to my phone calls so to hell with it. He is also on the other side of the country. The same thing happend with the power steerng resivoir bracket. He sent me the OEM bracket and would not respond when I asked him to send me the comptech part. I had to buy another from Comptech.

Anyone know where I can get the Walboro pump ASAP!!!!!????

Well all that is left is getting the pump, soldering the ESM and getting the air out of the radiator. Im kind of bumbed. I thought I would be able to drive by tom. night.

Allout

It's the GSS342 according to this thread.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...hlight=walboro

Lightning Motorsport has it for $95
http://shopping.lightningmotorsports..._342-p-21.html

BTW - which member did you get the kit from?

Hang in there Jim. It'll all be worth it. THe upside is that you'll have a brand new pump and no concerns about it's worthiness.

With 93 octane, you should have no issues with the HBP. Others can chime in and confirm.

Silvaccordex01

iTrader: (2)

You still have your icebox for sale? Does it have the bolt issue or is it one of the newer revised units?

Allout

I was just thinking about the lower bolt. You may want to remove one of the hex bolts from the top or one that's convenient and swap it with the one you're trying to install in the bottom. You can also use a metric tap to clean out the threads.

jproy

The intake is paid for and on its way out allong with the pulley. I ordered the pump last night before I went to bed. I should have it Thurs. or Fri..

Allout,
I may try that little trick. thanks

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

Put the HBP on now. No reason to wait. You have to remove the blower in order to swap the pulley so you might as well do it now before everything is buttoned up tight.

I would bet you'll get some vibration if all the hex bolts on the brace aren't tight.

jproy

I would put the HBP on if I knew how to reset the FPR properly for the HBP. I have no o2 sensor boost gauge or fuel pressure gauge yet. I was thinking of getting a fuel pressure gauge to T into the AN6 line from the old OEM FPR location. I don’t know of any way to adjust it properly around here or who to go to for that. I don’t even know who has a dyno. I sure don’t want to run the risk of running to lean. Since I now have to wait until Monday to get my fuel pump. I think I may remove the blower and try to clean out the threads where that muther fing hex bolt goes. Who knows how that will go? I am flipping pissed about that damn bolt. Really, I want to scream.

jproy

what does FCU stand for?

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

If it is a used kit (and a used FPR) you're going to need to be sure the FPR is adjusted properly.

Pick up a gauge. A mechanical gauge is fine as long as it's kept under the hood. If you want to mount it inside you'll need an electronic gauge.

jproy

It was a used kit but I sent the FPR with the blower to comptech for recalibration to standard settings. I think I am goign to get that fuel pressure guage but that still wont help me set the FPR for the HBP. How to properly set the FPR is greek to me. I know how to adjust it but not why or in what incriments. Like I said I dont want to go lean.

Allout

I still need to install my manual gauge. I'll be installing prior to installing my HBP. Base fuel pressure needs to be increased but I'm not sure by how much. When I install the HBP, I plan on having Shad do the tune.

Batosai

wish I could get an SC for mine too I did get some info from NOPIGUY about his turbo also... just hoping I can put together something soon..

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

The FPR is adjusted with a hex wrench. It's actually very easy and only takes a few minutes.

Static fuel pressure (w/o vacuum) should be 65psi with the HBP.

jproy

How do I know it will be set right at 65psi? Would this be measured from a pressure gauge at the OEM FPR location? Is this with the upper intake vacuum line removed from the FPR and with the engine idling? How do I go about setting it? I know how to physically adjust it. Do I do it at idle? Engine off? What is the proper way? Why do I not need a wideband o2 sensor to set it properly? Thanks, Jim

jproy

So can some of you verify how to set the FPR for the HBP and at what to set it from the questions in the post above. I need this info ASAP.

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

Engine at idle, no vacuum, no accessories running, use a manual fuel pressure gauge or if you've invested in an electronic gauge for mounting on the interior you could use that as well but it would help if you had someone to watch the gauge while you made the adjustments.

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

Also, be very careful when you are re-tightening the nut that goes around the bolt that you adjust. The washer that is on that bolt can be broken if you tighten the nut too tight and I don't know the exact size or thickness of that washer so you'd probably need to order a replacement from Comptech if you break it.

jproy

So what is the static pressure for the Normal pulley? Just to make sure I have this correct, I am to remove the vacuum line from the FPR and with the engine at idle and with no accessories on set it to 65 PSI on a manual gauge that I will install at the old OEM FPR location. Is that correct?

Also, I was under the impression that every car was different and that It must be set on using an o2 sensor to adjust the mixture perfectly otherwise I could run to lean or to rich. What do you know about that? Why do I not need to have it professionally tuned? I would love to do the HBP this weekend but I just don’t know enough about adjusting the FPR yet. Please talk with me about it. I really want to do it I just want to be thorough. My Acura is the nicest toy I have. I sure don’t want to damage the motor. Can anyone else verify that this FPR PSI applies to all HBP cars? Thanks again. Jim

Allout

After I installed my SC, I drove up to Comptech to have them verify my install and do a tune. Eventhough the FPR was preset, they adjusted the FPR slightly based on fuel trim readings. At no time did they hook up a fuel pressure gauge.

My point is that the base fuel pressure will get you in the ballpark. They hooked up their Honda scan tool to do the final tweaking to the FPR.

jproy

So are you saying I can have my mechanic who does have a Honda scan tool do the tweaking? If so how and what is the method? do you have to run the car through the rpm range and what readings do I adjust to what? Thanks. Please let me know.

Allout

It's been around 2 1/2 years so I'm not positive of the procedure. They did a couple of full throttle runs and I'm not sure if they were adjusting to the fuel trim readings on the run or at idle.

CL FWD SPEED

I thought fuel pressure should be at 36-38psi during idle? on standard pulley