6 PSI Comptech SC!
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6 PSI Comptech SC!
Scalbert sent me his boost upgrade pulley to try. THANKS!
Here are the results. It peaks at 6psi, smooth and strong, at 10.3:1 AFR. That is up from 9.x:1 with the stock pulley, so it's still a bit rich, but we're heading the right direction. Not a hint of spark knock, and the AFR goes rich as soon as boost hits and stays there. We just had a cold front go thru today, so the weather is pretty mild at 70 degrees, and 65% humidity. I will need to keep an eye on things when it gets back up to 90+ degrees, 90+%, but so far so good. I spend alot of time on the highways, so I'll have alot of opportunities to look for the pings. The third to fourth shift, in automatic mode, allows the boost to go to 6.5 psi. I haven't been using sport shift because as I watch the road in front of me, instead of the tach, I bounce it off the rev limit because it's still pulling, and seems like it's to early to shift. Shift light, on an auto? types1967's Uni-Chip will be able to raise the rev limit so that will help. The Uni-Chip will also pull timing and allow us to up the boost. I might try to find a vendor to make up a few other pullies to try when the Uni-Chip hits the street.
More Boost Baby!!
Here are the results. It peaks at 6psi, smooth and strong, at 10.3:1 AFR. That is up from 9.x:1 with the stock pulley, so it's still a bit rich, but we're heading the right direction. Not a hint of spark knock, and the AFR goes rich as soon as boost hits and stays there. We just had a cold front go thru today, so the weather is pretty mild at 70 degrees, and 65% humidity. I will need to keep an eye on things when it gets back up to 90+ degrees, 90+%, but so far so good. I spend alot of time on the highways, so I'll have alot of opportunities to look for the pings. The third to fourth shift, in automatic mode, allows the boost to go to 6.5 psi. I haven't been using sport shift because as I watch the road in front of me, instead of the tach, I bounce it off the rev limit because it's still pulling, and seems like it's to early to shift. Shift light, on an auto? types1967's Uni-Chip will be able to raise the rev limit so that will help. The Uni-Chip will also pull timing and allow us to up the boost. I might try to find a vendor to make up a few other pullies to try when the Uni-Chip hits the street.
More Boost Baby!!
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Re: 6 PSI Comptech SC!
Originally posted by ModAddict
I might try to find a vendor to make up a few other pullies to try when the Uni-Chip hits the street.
More Boost Baby!!
I might try to find a vendor to make up a few other pullies to try when the Uni-Chip hits the street.
More Boost Baby!!
But we have a problem with future goals. The MP62 blower is just about maxed out on our car. Maybe it could run 8 PSI boost but after that the efficiency will be a down hill battle. But even at 8 PSI we could make some decent power with an IC . In other words, we need to cool the charge air. Liquid/Air makes sense but we need to package it.
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where do you want your AFR to be on the CT SC setup?? I think I'm arounf 11.8-12.2 or under full boost. But I am running 20 psi intercooled in my Audi. Just curious where you will see the best performance with reasonable EGT's in the Acura.
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Originally posted by Ray Khan
where do you want your AFR to be on the CT SC setup?? I think I'm arounf 11.8-12.2 or under full boost. But I am running 20 psi intercooled in my Audi. Just curious where you will see the best performance with reasonable EGT's in the Acura.
where do you want your AFR to be on the CT SC setup?? I think I'm arounf 11.8-12.2 or under full boost. But I am running 20 psi intercooled in my Audi. Just curious where you will see the best performance with reasonable EGT's in the Acura.
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Your Audi came with forced induction so the numbers would be off a bit. Considering the J32A2 runs 10.5:1 CR we need to run on the rich side. IMO we need to stay just south of the 11.0:1 ratio just to be sure. It would be nice to be able to run up in the 12.0:1 range; maybe with an IC though.
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Originally posted by scalbert
\IMO we need to stay just south of the 11.0:1 ratio just to be sure. It would be nice to be able to run up in the 12.0:1 range; maybe with an IC though.
\IMO we need to stay just south of the 11.0:1 ratio just to be sure. It would be nice to be able to run up in the 12.0:1 range; maybe with an IC though.
I forgot about the IC. I've got some ideas for that, and I think it might be realatively easy. Definatly Liquid/Air.
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Originally posted by Ray Khan
I think a nice FMIC would look nice behind the bumper of a SC'd CLS.
I think a nice FMIC would look nice behind the bumper of a SC'd CLS.
But we can always get a large radiator for the Liquid/Air system...
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Originally posted by ModAddict
I forgot about the IC. I've got some ideas for that, and I think it might be realatively easy. Definatly Liquid/Air.
I forgot about the IC. I've got some ideas for that, and I think it might be realatively easy. Definatly Liquid/Air.
I have a couple ideas, one extravagant and one simple. But both are very doable.
The more difficult one is a replacement of the upper intake manifold with a custom unit with an integral Liquid/Air IC. The other is a simple plumbing re-route incorporating a Liquid/Air IC. The first one would allow for a shorter distance and better response along with a larger core.
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Originally posted by SFLA_Type-S
Hey ModAddict,
That sounds great!!! How's the tranny feel? Have you noticed any slippage?
Hey ModAddict,
That sounds great!!! How's the tranny feel? Have you noticed any slippage?
Do you have the 5AT? I am interested in looking into the Level Ten upgrades. I need to know more about them, but on the surface they look good.
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Originally posted by scalbert
Let's put our heads together.
I have a couple ideas, one extravagant and one simple. But both are very doable.
The more difficult one is a replacement of the upper intake manifold with a custom unit with an integral Liquid/Air IC. The other is a simple plumbing re-route incorporating a Liquid/Air IC. The first one would allow for a shorter distance and better response along with a larger core.
Let's put our heads together.
I have a couple ideas, one extravagant and one simple. But both are very doable.
The more difficult one is a replacement of the upper intake manifold with a custom unit with an integral Liquid/Air IC. The other is a simple plumbing re-route incorporating a Liquid/Air IC. The first one would allow for a shorter distance and better response along with a larger core.
But I think with boost, our stock intake could be improved, and the integrated IC sounds like the way to go.
types1967, aren't you working on an intake manifold with someone?
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It would look nice but not be very efficient for an Eaton blower; the pumping losses would be too much
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Originally posted by ModAddict
I was thinking about the easy way with something like this. http://store.yahoo.com/cheapturbo/pwr6dix10le3.html
But I think with boost, our stock intake could be improved, and the integrated IC sounds like the way to go.
I was thinking about the easy way with something like this. http://store.yahoo.com/cheapturbo/pwr6dix10le3.html
But I think with boost, our stock intake could be improved, and the integrated IC sounds like the way to go.
BTW, here is the manufacturer's website on the product:
http://www.pwr-performance.com/page867169.htm
Time to take some measurements...
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Hey guys,
I thought I might be able to help out, maybe not. We used the Eaton M90 on our L67 GTPs and Regal GS. It is not IC from the factory, so there are a few aftermarket companies. This is the kit one of the vendors sells, and it might give you an idea as to what is involved. This IC does not replace the intake manifold, it sits on top. http://www.zzperformance.com/zzp/pro...ntercooler.htm
There are a few other vendors, let me know if you want some info on them as well.
As for aftermarket pulleys, I used the Dial_Ur_boost system from www.southfloridapulleyhq.com . You can swap pullies in a matter of minutes. I know he has systems for M90s and M112s, but I don't know about the M62. You can e-mail Terry and I'm sure he'll help you out if he can. Tell him GS Dave from the SoCal Grand Prix club referred you. Enjoy our force fed beasts.
I thought I might be able to help out, maybe not. We used the Eaton M90 on our L67 GTPs and Regal GS. It is not IC from the factory, so there are a few aftermarket companies. This is the kit one of the vendors sells, and it might give you an idea as to what is involved. This IC does not replace the intake manifold, it sits on top. http://www.zzperformance.com/zzp/pro...ntercooler.htm
There are a few other vendors, let me know if you want some info on them as well.
As for aftermarket pulleys, I used the Dial_Ur_boost system from www.southfloridapulleyhq.com . You can swap pullies in a matter of minutes. I know he has systems for M90s and M112s, but I don't know about the M62. You can e-mail Terry and I'm sure he'll help you out if he can. Tell him GS Dave from the SoCal Grand Prix club referred you. Enjoy our force fed beasts.
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Originally posted by GS Dave
Hey guys,
I thought I might be able to help out, maybe not. We used the Eaton M90 on our L67 GTPs and Regal GS. It is not IC from the factory, so there are a few aftermarket companies. This is the kit one of the vendors sells, and it might give you an idea as to what is involved. This IC does not replace the intake manifold, it sits on top. http://www.zzperformance.com/zzp/pro...ntercooler.htm
There are a few other vendors, let me know if you want some info on them as well.
As for aftermarket pulleys, I used the Dial_Ur_boost system from www.southfloridapulleyhq.com . You can swap pullies in a matter of minutes. I know he has systems for M90s and M112s, but I don't know about the M62. You can e-mail Terry and I'm sure he'll help you out if he can. Tell him GS Dave from the SoCal Grand Prix club referred you. Enjoy our force fed beasts.
Hey guys,
I thought I might be able to help out, maybe not. We used the Eaton M90 on our L67 GTPs and Regal GS. It is not IC from the factory, so there are a few aftermarket companies. This is the kit one of the vendors sells, and it might give you an idea as to what is involved. This IC does not replace the intake manifold, it sits on top. http://www.zzperformance.com/zzp/pro...ntercooler.htm
There are a few other vendors, let me know if you want some info on them as well.
As for aftermarket pulleys, I used the Dial_Ur_boost system from www.southfloridapulleyhq.com . You can swap pullies in a matter of minutes. I know he has systems for M90s and M112s, but I don't know about the M62. You can e-mail Terry and I'm sure he'll help you out if he can. Tell him GS Dave from the SoCal Grand Prix club referred you. Enjoy our force fed beasts.
I remember all the design plans and intended creation of the IC for the L67. I had the first nosedrive with keyed pulley and one of the first S-Ported blowers from Magnuson in my '97 GTP. That led to the desire to run an IC after trying a 3 inch pulley with tons of knock. But nothing was available at the time so I resorted to the ERL Aquamist system and the SplitSecond ARC2 with 40 lb injectors.
Oh the times I spent under the hood of that car with the blower off, too many times.
We can put in an IC much easier than on the blower-in-the-V style of the L67 and hopefully we soon will.
The pulley we can swap is not the SC pulley but the double alternator pulley which in turn drives the SC pulley via a belt. The below pictures help to understand how our installation works:
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Thanks for the info scalbert, I had a feeling I might be wrong, but it was worth a shot. From the photo you posted, I can see why you have your work cut out. I think the best bet would be to try to fit something like a Vortech aftercooler in there. Where? I have no idea, if you could relocate the intake somehow, that might free up some room. But that is one tight engine compartment there. Good Luck.
Dave
Dave
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Originally posted by GS Dave
I think the best bet would be to try to fit something like a Vortech aftercooler in there.
I think the best bet would be to try to fit something like a Vortech aftercooler in there.
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Its hard to tell from that picture, is there any clearance under that discharge pipe? A few inches? What about hood clearance in that area? I think you could make it work right there if the aftercooler was small enough. I know those things work quite well on blown Stangs. Would be very cool to see it work.
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The battery is near the bottom of the discharge but to the fender side. Other than that it is fairly open. There is enough room to get this done; fabrication is the only issue.
I plan on doing some general measurements to see what we might be able to fit.
I plan on doing some general measurements to see what we might be able to fit.
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Originally posted by scalbert
But for simplicity that barrel IC is nice. That might be something nice to try as it could be installed pretty easy. I just wonder what te specifications are on it on efficiency but at our boost levels it should be more than enough.
Time to take some measurements...
But for simplicity that barrel IC is nice. That might be something nice to try as it could be installed pretty easy. I just wonder what te specifications are on it on efficiency but at our boost levels it should be more than enough.
Time to take some measurements...
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Originally posted by ModAddict
Does anyone know where we might find silicone tubing with molded bends we could use for this?
Does anyone know where we might find silicone tubing with molded bends we could use for this?
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Originally posted by ModAddict
So I'm thinking we would need a flange to mate up with the intake manifold, some 2 1/2" I.D. mandrel bent piping, a few silicone hose couplers and some welding. And of course all the liquid parts and IC, but that's the easy part.
So I'm thinking we would need a flange to mate up with the intake manifold, some 2 1/2" I.D. mandrel bent piping, a few silicone hose couplers and some welding. And of course all the liquid parts and IC, but that's the easy part.
I may try this after the CR (provided it shows what I expect, normal) test.
#29
Someone give me a quick tutoring on what kind of fuel upgrades come with that kit? Injectors? Mechanical FMU? Any tuning you could do to bring that AF back up to the 11 range?
Scalbert...I can take physical measurements of my Vortech aftercooler if you'd like. By eyeballing it from the pics, it is certainly worth considering. One thing to keep in mind with relocating the battery is that you'll need to come up with almost identical space for the tank.
Scalbert...I can take physical measurements of my Vortech aftercooler if you'd like. By eyeballing it from the pics, it is certainly worth considering. One thing to keep in mind with relocating the battery is that you'll need to come up with almost identical space for the tank.
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After spending some time in the engine bay with a tape measure, I don't think the mandrel bent pipe will fit, so I looked at the silicone elbows from Baker.
Using all silicone elbows, with a few short straight pieces of pipe, and no welding, try to picture this. On a plane perpendicular to the front of the car and the ground, go from the blower discharge back and down thru the IC, loop up and back to the intake manifold inlet.
Comming off the bottom of the blower is the funnel shaped casting that ends in about a 3"round discharge. Attach to that a 45* elbow pointing down which will end up at a 15-20* angle down towards the back of the engine bay, attach the PWR type IC (8-10"), then a 90*elpow pointing up, a piece of pipe only long enough to connect two elbows, another 90* pointing back towards the intake manifold inlet, a piece of pipe long enough to reach the 90* elbow that goes into the intake manifold.
I was looking at the cast elbow attached to the intake manifold that comes with the kit, and I think I might be able to cut the flange off leaving just enough to attach a silicone coupler, and just spin the rest of the elbow so it faces back, and down just a bit,for the last elbow going into the intake manifold.
$156.00 for the silicone, $4-$625, for the IC depending on the size, a small heat exchanger/pump/hoses another $200.
What do you think? Can you see it?
Using all silicone elbows, with a few short straight pieces of pipe, and no welding, try to picture this. On a plane perpendicular to the front of the car and the ground, go from the blower discharge back and down thru the IC, loop up and back to the intake manifold inlet.
Comming off the bottom of the blower is the funnel shaped casting that ends in about a 3"round discharge. Attach to that a 45* elbow pointing down which will end up at a 15-20* angle down towards the back of the engine bay, attach the PWR type IC (8-10"), then a 90*elpow pointing up, a piece of pipe only long enough to connect two elbows, another 90* pointing back towards the intake manifold inlet, a piece of pipe long enough to reach the 90* elbow that goes into the intake manifold.
I was looking at the cast elbow attached to the intake manifold that comes with the kit, and I think I might be able to cut the flange off leaving just enough to attach a silicone coupler, and just spin the rest of the elbow so it faces back, and down just a bit,for the last elbow going into the intake manifold.
$156.00 for the silicone, $4-$625, for the IC depending on the size, a small heat exchanger/pump/hoses another $200.
What do you think? Can you see it?
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Originally posted by Pull_T
Someone give me a quick tutoring on what kind of fuel upgrades come with that kit? Injectors? Mechanical FMU? Any tuning you could do to bring that AF back up to the 11 range?
Scalbert...I can take physical measurements of my Vortech aftercooler if you'd like. By eyeballing it from the pics, it is certainly worth considering. One thing to keep in mind with relocating the battery is that you'll need to come up with almost identical space for the tank.
Someone give me a quick tutoring on what kind of fuel upgrades come with that kit? Injectors? Mechanical FMU? Any tuning you could do to bring that AF back up to the 11 range?
Scalbert...I can take physical measurements of my Vortech aftercooler if you'd like. By eyeballing it from the pics, it is certainly worth considering. One thing to keep in mind with relocating the battery is that you'll need to come up with almost identical space for the tank.
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Originally posted by ModAddict
The only thing that comes with the kit is the mechanical FMU. I'm not sure how far the stock injectors and will go.
The only thing that comes with the kit is the mechanical FMU. I'm not sure how far the stock injectors and will go.
So the UniChip would be welcome to run larger injectors, lower pressure and dial in the needed duty cycle.
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Originally posted by Pull_T
Scalbert...I can take physical measurements of my Vortech aftercooler if you'd like. By eyeballing it from the pics, it is certainly worth considering. One thing to keep in mind with relocating the battery is that you'll need to come up with almost identical space for the tank.
Scalbert...I can take physical measurements of my Vortech aftercooler if you'd like. By eyeballing it from the pics, it is certainly worth considering. One thing to keep in mind with relocating the battery is that you'll need to come up with almost identical space for the tank.
But by removing and remaking the discharge pipe, we would have quite a bit of room available. But everything from the blower to the manifold would need to be fabricated.
I think I'm getting ahead of myself; I still need that CR test to be sure I didn't screw anything up...
#34
Originally posted by ModAddict
The only thing that comes with the kit is the mechanical FMU. I'm not sure how far the stock injectors and will go. The only thing to tune would be the fuel pressure from the FMU.
The only thing that comes with the kit is the mechanical FMU. I'm not sure how far the stock injectors and will go. The only thing to tune would be the fuel pressure from the FMU.
What is the flow rate of the stock injectors?
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Originally posted by scalbert
Add to that an upgraded fuel pump. Since we are just bumping pressure the stock duty cycle is being used. But now that I have seen nearly 100 PSI fuel pressure, I don't think we want to run more pressure.
So the UniChip would be welcome to run larger injectors, lower pressure and dial in the needed duty cycle.
Add to that an upgraded fuel pump. Since we are just bumping pressure the stock duty cycle is being used. But now that I have seen nearly 100 PSI fuel pressure, I don't think we want to run more pressure.
So the UniChip would be welcome to run larger injectors, lower pressure and dial in the needed duty cycle.
Did you see the post at the bottom of page 2?
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Originally posted by Pull_T
Is there any way you can swap the disc/bladder to a lesser ratio to lean it out to where you want it?
What is the flow rate of the stock injectors?
Is there any way you can swap the disc/bladder to a lesser ratio to lean it out to where you want it?
What is the flow rate of the stock injectors?
Scalbert,...????
#37
Originally posted by scalbert
Add to that an upgraded fuel pump. Since we are just bumping pressure the stock duty cycle is being used. But now that I have seen nearly 100 PSI fuel pressure, I don't think we want to run more pressure.
So the UniChip would be welcome to run larger injectors, lower pressure and dial in the needed duty cycle.
Add to that an upgraded fuel pump. Since we are just bumping pressure the stock duty cycle is being used. But now that I have seen nearly 100 PSI fuel pressure, I don't think we want to run more pressure.
So the UniChip would be welcome to run larger injectors, lower pressure and dial in the needed duty cycle.
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Originally posted by Pull_T
I wouldn;t want to run 100 psi. If you can get rid of the FMU with larger injectors, I'd do that. It's what I did on my car, got rid of it all together...no need for a band aid like that which is just another part that can fail on you.
I wouldn;t want to run 100 psi. If you can get rid of the FMU with larger injectors, I'd do that. It's what I did on my car, got rid of it all together...no need for a band aid like that which is just another part that can fail on you.
#39
Originally posted by ModAddict
I believe there are different springs for the FMU. I'm not sure whats in there now. Not sure on the flow rates either.
Scalbert,...????
I believe there are different springs for the FMU. I'm not sure whats in there now. Not sure on the flow rates either.
Scalbert,...????
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Originally posted by Pull_T
Well, when I had an FMU (Made by Vortech), it had different discs in available to change the pressure increase ratio 12:1 (fuel psi:boost psi) was stock, but you could get 8:1, 4:1, etc.
Well, when I had an FMU (Made by Vortech), it had different discs in available to change the pressure increase ratio 12:1 (fuel psi:boost psi) was stock, but you could get 8:1, 4:1, etc.