ModAddict

Scalbert sent me his boost upgrade pulley to try. THANKS!
Here are the results. It peaks at 6psi, smooth and strong, at 10.3:1 AFR. That is up from 9.x:1 with the stock pulley, so it's still a bit rich, but we're heading the right direction. Not a hint of spark knock, and the AFR goes rich as soon as boost hits and stays there. We just had a cold front go thru today, so the weather is pretty mild at 70 degrees, and 65% humidity. I will need to keep an eye on things when it gets back up to 90+ degrees, 90+%, but so far so good. I spend alot of time on the highways, so I'll have alot of opportunities to look for the pings. The third to fourth shift, in automatic mode, allows the boost to go to 6.5 psi. I haven't been using sport shift because as I watch the road in front of me, instead of the tach, I bounce it off the rev limit because it's still pulling, and seems like it's to early to shift. Shift light, on an auto? types1967's Uni-Chip will be able to raise the rev limit so that will help. The Uni-Chip will also pull timing and allow us to up the boost. I might try to find a vendor to make up a few other pullies to try when the Uni-Chip hits the street.
More Boost Baby!!

SFLA_Type-S

Hey ModAddict,

That sounds great!!! How's the tranny feel? Have you noticed any slippage?

scalbert

Glad I could help.

But we have a problem with future goals. The MP62 blower is just about maxed out on our car. Maybe it could run 8 PSI boost but after that the efficiency will be a down hill battle. But even at 8 PSI we could make some decent power with an IC . In other words, we need to cool the charge air. Liquid/Air makes sense but we need to package it.

Ray Khan

where do you want your AFR to be on the CT SC setup?? I think I'm arounf 11.8-12.2 or under full boost. But I am running 20 psi intercooled in my Audi. Just curious where you will see the best performance with reasonable EGT's in the Acura.

scalbert

Your Audi came with forced induction so the numbers would be off a bit. Considering the J32A2 runs 10.5:1 CR we need to run on the rich side. IMO we need to stay just south of the 11.0:1 ratio just to be sure. It would be nice to be able to run up in the 12.0:1 range; maybe with an IC though.

Ray Khan

yah, iron block and 9.5:1 compression ratio. The stock intercooler is junk, but it's better than nothing That will be gone soon enough anyway. I think a nice FMIC would look nice behind the bumper of a SC'd CLS.

ModAddict

That's where the tuner set up my 99 Si, which is also a high compression engine. That's where I would like to stay, just south of 11:1.

I forgot about the IC. I've got some ideas for that, and I think it might be realatively easy. Definatly Liquid/Air.

GOT PSI?

All this talk of S/C & boost...reminds me of my Vortech in my 93' 5.0...

scalbert

It would look nice but not be very efficient for an Eaton blower; the pumping losses would be too much. A close coupled Liquid/Air would be better.

But we can always get a large radiator for the Liquid/Air system...

scalbert

Let's put our heads together.

I have a couple ideas, one extravagant and one simple. But both are very doable.

The more difficult one is a replacement of the upper intake manifold with a custom unit with an integral Liquid/Air IC. The other is a simple plumbing re-route incorporating a Liquid/Air IC. The first one would allow for a shorter distance and better response along with a larger core.

ModAddict

It could be a little firmer with the third to fourth at WOT. Other than that, it's OK so far.

Do you have the 5AT? I am interested in looking into the Level Ten upgrades. I need to know more about them, but on the surface they look good.

ModAddict

I was thinking about the easy way with something like this. http://store.yahoo.com/cheapturbo/pwr6dix10le3.html

But I think with boost, our stock intake could be improved, and the integrated IC sounds like the way to go.

types1967, aren't you working on an intake manifold with someone?

darrinb

i need to go in a ride in that thing....

lemme know when u in the area

Ray Khan

true, I take for granted that my ECU will make up for IC pressure drop by requesting more boost

scalbert

But for simplicity that barrel IC is nice. That might be something nice to try as it could be installed pretty easy. I just wonder what te specifications are on it on efficiency but at our boost levels it should be more than enough..

BTW, here is the manufacturer's website on the product:

http://www.pwr-performance.com/page867169.htm

Time to take some measurements...

GS Dave

Hey guys,

I thought I might be able to help out, maybe not. We used the Eaton M90 on our L67 GTPs and Regal GS. It is not IC from the factory, so there are a few aftermarket companies. This is the kit one of the vendors sells, and it might give you an idea as to what is involved. This IC does not replace the intake manifold, it sits on top. http://www.zzperformance.com/zzp/pro...ntercooler.htm

There are a few other vendors, let me know if you want some info on them as well.

As for aftermarket pulleys, I used the Dial_Ur_boost system from www.southfloridapulleyhq.com . You can swap pullies in a matter of minutes. I know he has systems for M90s and M112s, but I don't know about the M62. You can e-mail Terry and I'm sure he'll help you out if he can. Tell him GS Dave from the SoCal Grand Prix club referred you. Enjoy our force fed beasts.

scalbert

Hey Dave,

I remember all the design plans and intended creation of the IC for the L67. I had the first nosedrive with keyed pulley and one of the first S-Ported blowers from Magnuson in my '97 GTP. That led to the desire to run an IC after trying a 3 inch pulley with tons of knock. But nothing was available at the time so I resorted to the ERL Aquamist system and the SplitSecond ARC2 with 40 lb injectors.

Oh the times I spent under the hood of that car with the blower off, too many times.

We can put in an IC much easier than on the blower-in-the-V style of the L67 and hopefully we soon will.

The pulley we can swap is not the SC pulley but the double alternator pulley which in turn drives the SC pulley via a belt. The below pictures help to understand how our installation works:

GS Dave

Thanks for the info scalbert, I had a feeling I might be wrong, but it was worth a shot. From the photo you posted, I can see why you have your work cut out. I think the best bet would be to try to fit something like a Vortech aftercooler in there. Where? I have no idea, if you could relocate the intake somehow, that might free up some room. But that is one tight engine compartment there. Good Luck.

Dave

scalbert

It may not be too bad if we can remork the area below. We could install a unit similar to the aftercooler just after the blower discharge and reroute the plumbing to attach to the stock manifold.

GS Dave

Its hard to tell from that picture, is there any clearance under that discharge pipe? A few inches? What about hood clearance in that area? I think you could make it work right there if the aftercooler was small enough. I know those things work quite well on blown Stangs. Would be very cool to see it work.

Chaptorial

Cool deal man. Now just take that sucker to the track.

scalbert

The battery is near the bottom of the discharge but to the fender side. Other than that it is fairly open. There is enough room to get this done; fabrication is the only issue.

I plan on doing some general measurements to see what we might be able to fit.

ModAddict

So I'm thinking we would need a flange to mate up with the intake manifold, some 2 1/2" I.D. mandrel bent piping, a few silicone hose couplers and some welding. And of course all the liquid parts and IC, but that's the easy part.

types1967

scalbert just make the ic and we can buy it from you.i get the chip you get the cooler

JRock

You can always relocate the battery to the trunk if that will help free up more space.

ModAddict

Does anyone know where we might find silicone tubing with molded bends we could use for this?

ModAddict

Found it. http://www.bakerprecision.com/purosil.htm

scalbert

Yea, it could be done pretty easily.

I may try this after the CR (provided it shows what I expect, normal) test.

Pull_T

Someone give me a quick tutoring on what kind of fuel upgrades come with that kit? Injectors? Mechanical FMU? Any tuning you could do to bring that AF back up to the 11 range?

Scalbert...I can take physical measurements of my Vortech aftercooler if you'd like. By eyeballing it from the pics, it is certainly worth considering. One thing to keep in mind with relocating the battery is that you'll need to come up with almost identical space for the tank.

ModAddict

After spending some time in the engine bay with a tape measure, I don't think the mandrel bent pipe will fit, so I looked at the silicone elbows from Baker.

Using all silicone elbows, with a few short straight pieces of pipe, and no welding, try to picture this. On a plane perpendicular to the front of the car and the ground, go from the blower discharge back and down thru the IC, loop up and back to the intake manifold inlet.

Comming off the bottom of the blower is the funnel shaped casting that ends in about a 3"round discharge. Attach to that a 45* elbow pointing down which will end up at a 15-20* angle down towards the back of the engine bay, attach the PWR type IC (8-10"), then a 90*elpow pointing up, a piece of pipe only long enough to connect two elbows, another 90* pointing back towards the intake manifold inlet, a piece of pipe long enough to reach the 90* elbow that goes into the intake manifold.

I was looking at the cast elbow attached to the intake manifold that comes with the kit, and I think I might be able to cut the flange off leaving just enough to attach a silicone coupler, and just spin the rest of the elbow so it faces back, and down just a bit,for the last elbow going into the intake manifold.

$156.00 for the silicone, $4-$625, for the IC depending on the size, a small heat exchanger/pump/hoses another $200.

What do you think? Can you see it?

ModAddict

The only thing that comes with the kit is the mechanical FMU. I'm not sure how far the stock injectors and will go. The only thing to tune would be the fuel pressure from the FMU.

scalbert

Add to that an upgraded fuel pump. Since we are just bumping pressure the stock duty cycle is being used. But now that I have seen nearly 100 PSI fuel pressure, I don't think we want to run more pressure.

So the UniChip would be welcome to run larger injectors, lower pressure and dial in the needed duty cycle.

scalbert

Thanks, soon I'll determine the space we have and let you know so you can see if it could fit. If not there are others and always custom from Spearco.

But by removing and remaking the discharge pipe, we would have quite a bit of room available. But everything from the blower to the manifold would need to be fabricated.

I think I'm getting ahead of myself; I still need that CR test to be sure I didn't screw anything up...

Pull_T

Is there any way you can swap the disc/bladder to a lesser ratio to lean it out to where you want it?

What is the flow rate of the stock injectors?

ModAddict

I forgot about the pump. My fuel pressure is someware over 100 psi and I am a little reluctant to mess with the FMU.

Did you see the post at the bottom of page 2?

ModAddict

I believe there are different springs for the FMU. I'm not sure whats in there now. Not sure on the flow rates either.

Scalbert,...????

Pull_T

I wouldn;t want to run 100 psi. If you can get rid of the FMU with larger injectors, I'd do that. It's what I did on my car, got rid of it all together...no need for a band aid like that which is just another part that can fail on you.

ModAddict

I'd love to. I don't think I can w/o ramapping the ECU, and we can't do that yet.

Pull_T

Well, when I had an FMU (Made by Vortech), it had different discs in available to change the pressure increase ratio 12:1 (fuel psi:boost psi) was stock, but you could get 8:1, 4:1, etc.

ModAddict

I just looked on their site and there are three different springs for static pressure and two different discs for psi:boost. It says it comes stock with the highest on both. I guess the smaller disc might be worth a try. I don't have that far to go, but it's probably worth a try.