Thefireball

I just had a fully built exhaust put in last week, and I kind of wanted to show people what to expect when going with a 3 inch exhaust. There's plenty of sound clips for these engines, but not enough for the J32, unless I'm just looking in the wrong place. The ones that I did find were either of lower quality and/or old, were muffler deletes, or weren't 3 inch.
I tried using a high quality mic to help pick up as much detail as I could, which ended up picking up a lot of background noise, but it still sounds good.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

^

J series engines love to breath.
Next up forced induction?
Just curious, why is the LW crank pulley squeaking?

Thefireball

From what I've read, the pulleys say to use a gates branded belt in the manual. I learned this when searching around the forums on here before taking them off your hands.
Not sure what the difference in the belt is, but it doesn't really bother me. The noise comes and goes, and I don't hear it when I'm inside.
And next up will be P2R Lower intake runners, along with a J37 Intake Manifold and a B series 80mm throttle body, and then upping the intake to 4 inches. After that, it's deciding which route to take. I still need a new truck lid, and front and back bumpers, then get her all painted. I'm considering trying my hand at painting my self with a proper compressor and HVLP gun, but I'm not sure.
Supercharger will come eventually, but it'll be awhile at this point.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

I have an OEM belt now and it's quiet. When I do my timing belt, here in the next month or two, I am going to use a goodyear gator back drive belt I have stashed.

I understand that the S/C'er is down the road; however, if you want to check out a kit for sale, there is one up on the Jseries & Jswap Engine Community Facecreep page for $2800 shipped.

Thefireball

I can't find the thread anymore on the squeek, but everyone was saying to use a gates belt. Ah well, not a big deal to me. As long as it does the job, I'm all for it.
I don't have, nor use, Facebook, so I'm not sure if I'll be able to check the listing. But I just blew a good chunk of money on the exhaust, so I'm going to have to recover from that for a little bit.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Same here.
Just google 'Jseries & Jswap Engine Community', it's a public page, anyone can view.

Thefireball

I took a look at it. Thought you needed FB to view anything on there. I''m going to keep an eye on that page, along with the other sites I use to find parts. Thanks!

zeta

iTrader: (1)

^
Here's a car in Memphis that has all the parts you need: trunk lid, front / rear bumpers.

https://imageappky.car-part.com/imag...%23%20AA0847#1

Use car-part.com to check out your local salvage yards, you might get lucky!

Thefireball

Car-part is what I use. I'd prefer to color match, but since I'm going to repaint the car anyhow, I'm just waiting for another 2g cl with the current body style (rounded) to show back up at the junk yard. I've ran into like 3 with the correct body style, but didn't take it because it was the wrong color. Now it doesn't matter anymore.
I did try calling up a couple of places that had the correct color, one of them being in memphis, but they absolutely refused to ship it because the shipping was more than the item itself. I even said that I would pay extra for it, but they just refused.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, shipping more often than not is a horrible deal killer.
I was lucky. This time last year when I bought my CL-S project car, I found one at an LKQ that had everything I needed. Front / rear sways, rear shocks, front strut brace. IIRC'ly it all cost just over one hundo. I found a CL-S6 in a Kentucky salvage yard and was able to get the guy to send me the parking brake handle in order to do the conversion in the automatic project car. I hated that bedeviled parking brake foot pedal. Another member here found the six speed cup holder for me, on ebay, and the rest is history. It's sooooooooooo much better now with the parking brake on the center console.

Thefireball

This is my second car, my first was a '99 CL and I loved it. That was one of the harder things to get past when I first bought mine. I've been considering the the conversion as of late. I imagine the most difficult part is just rerouting the cable? You don't have to replace it do you?

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Starting at post #70 on the thread below, the OP in that thread helped with alot of my questions.
I had to get the S2K adjuster rod off of ebay to make it all work. It is longer and was just what the doctor ordered to complete the conversion. All the information you need, if you decided to center console convert, is there.
Check it out:
https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...-986820/page2/

Thefireball

I personally enjoy the auto's cupholders. I like the push button for opening the doors, and the sliding door on the manuals require a little bit of strength and finessing to get it to open/close.
I'm conflicted now.

TheWeez

Not quite true. They do need some back pressure, which is why the factory exhaust setup is more than enough unless you're running FI. WIth a 3" setup, you'll lose low end torque and not see any HP gains up top. Even FI you're unlikely to see much benefit from such a large setup. It's really just overkill. This is also why the stock setup sees better performance than those that have done true dual setups, as some back pressure is something beneficial in most cases.

Thefireball

That's why I went with 2.5 inlet mufflers. I don't notice any loss in low end torque either.

Acura2g558

Overall, nice video. I can certainly appreciate the sound of a J-series engine with exhaust. While it's too loud for me personally, I can see the appeal to those you find the loudness desirable. The Type-S exhaust is plenty for me
If I were to offer some advise; having spent the last 11 months rebuilding a CL-S6, don't waste your money on rebuild an automatic especially with that much cosmetic issue. By the time you sort all of the cosmetic issues out you could have purchased a CL-S6 and SC/r it with the money. Likely, you could hold on to your exhaust too and transfer it over. Better ROI (return on your investment)

Thefireball

It already has a 2007 accord v6 tranny in it. I've checked the solenoid screens, and they are clean. That was with 167k miles on it. I put brand new transmission fluid in it when I first got it. Also put new pressure switches on it. She's been running great ever since. I'm not worried about it breaking down, but I know nothing lasts forever.

Thefireball

Just wanted to add one more beneficial detail to all of this being done.
Back when I was stock, and even when I had a SRI, then a CAI, and DC Sports headers + J pipe, I was getting 260 miles on a full tank to empty.
Then the cells in my catalytic converter broke/crumbled/fell, and I was getting 220 miles on a full tank.
Now, having done all of this exhaust work, I just hit 300 miles from a full tank to empty. Probably could have gotten 305-310, but the gas light was on and I didn't want to risk being stranded. That's with me going WOT a couple of times as well.

TheWeez

Geez, I get upset if I get less than 350mi from a tank and can easily get 400mi in the summer. Drops to around 325-350mi in the winter with winter tires and the added weight of snow on the vehicle and more wheel spin.

Still isn't running great. If anything, both the header and CAI should increase mileage, as they both mean you're making more power at all RPMs, which means you need less fuel in order to achieve the same speed.

Do you do nothing but stop-and-go city driving?

Thefireball

I live in an area where there is long stretches of road, so no stop-and-go for me. My girl gets about 250-260 miles on a full tank on her 6 speed, and she's completely stock and doesn't go WOT. I'll take that the bad gas mileage is due to it's age.
What all should I be looking at to get that better mileage besides upgrading or rebuilding the engine?

TheWeez

Run some injector cleaner through it. Like Seafoam (their high mileage stuff is good too). Consider cleaning the intake manifold. Sometimes it can be easier to go to a shop and go the complete fuel system cleaning. There's a good 3M three step system too that a lot of shops use. Intake cleaner, carb/throttle body cleaner, then fuel system treatment. Make sure tires have proper pressure too, as it can impact mileage.

Thefireball

I've ran seafoam where you put motor oil in before changing it, through the gas tank, and through the vacuum line. I've cleaned out all of the gunk from the EGR port to inside the intake manifold. I've swapped out fuel injectors because I thought I had an issue with them (turns out it wasn't the issue), and I got brand new tires in the summer.
My old '99 CL was getting more or less the same mileage before, but I wasn't driving but 5 minutes to work. Now it's a 30-40 minute drive on roads that are capped at 45MPH. I'm used to it at this point, so it doesn't really bother me.
If it did, I'd buy a Prius, and make this my full time project/track car.
I just wanted to throw out some real-world numbers for people since no one really stated how many miles they got from an exhaust, just people saying you would 'theoretically'.