3.5L dyno
01-05-2011, 07:14 PM
#3
Whats up with RDX owners?
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I assume since that is nearly 6 years old you wouldnt happen to remember the weather for that day, would you?
01-05-2011, 08:01 PM
#4
OG 3.x^7 rawr
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Not to thread jack but those torque numbers are quite nice! This was on the 3.7 stock exhaust. Will be updating again tuesday for another dyno before the 80mm TB.
I also noticed that your power doesn't drop as early as mine. Hoepfully more air flow from the TB will push it higher.
I also noticed that your power doesn't drop as early as mine. Hoepfully more air flow from the TB will push it higher.
01-05-2011, 08:16 PM
#6
OG 3.x^7 rawr
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3.7 with stock exhaust at the time. This was the first one which allowed further combination into the 3.6. I dynoed it after break-in as a baseline. After the exhaust I dyno'd again but on a dynojet. Will be going back on the dyno dynamics tuesday.
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01-05-2011, 08:39 PM
#8
OG 3.x^7 rawr
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Looks like your a few chapters behind 
Do some reasearch on the other site.
I dyno'd on the dynojet cause it was a dyno day so there was a deal on pulls. At the time Nupe was there and I wanted to shut him up.
Do some reasearch on the other site.I dyno'd on the dynojet cause it was a dyno day so there was a deal on pulls. At the time Nupe was there and I wanted to shut him up.
01-05-2011, 08:53 PM
#10
Whats up with RDX owners?
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Damn Eddie, that dyno was low. My baseline with about 5-6k miles on the motor, stock exhaust and clogged cat was 281/257. But I know you told me you had it dyno'd again, and those numbers were impressive 
Comparing numbers from different dynos is stupid though, as they really are meaningless.
Jake - Go into the Acura subforum, there is a thread near the top with Spoolin's screen name in it. Thats the 3.7 build. Keep in mind if you do that, you cant boost it.
Comparing numbers from different dynos is stupid though, as they really are meaningless.
Jake - Go into the Acura subforum, there is a thread near the top with Spoolin's screen name in it. Thats the 3.7 build. Keep in mind if you do that, you cant boost it.
Last edited by civicdrivr; 01-05-2011 at 08:55 PM.
01-05-2011, 09:51 PM
#11
Makes me glad I didn't opt for the 3.5-6 upgrade honestly. Seems like without a custom header, custom exhaust, custom intake/tb, and a tune etc that the money spent on this isnt worth it. Almost everyone who has done this isn't optimizing the parts upgrades.
01-06-2011, 05:13 AM
#17
Three Wheelin'
How does that foot taste Jacob? lol 
I know the IMRC kicks over at 3800, but I can't remember where vtec does? It is 4800? I see the dip just after 38 so I would imagin thats the IMRC?
I know the IMRC kicks over at 3800, but I can't remember where vtec does? It is 4800? I see the dip just after 38 so I would imagin thats the IMRC?
Last edited by CH46ESeaKnight; 01-06-2011 at 05:16 AM.
01-06-2011, 09:57 AM
#20
3.5 psi
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you're right, but the same can be said of boosted cars. There's a lot of extras that go along to optimize power. I've priced out both options a million times and the stroker motor still comes out cheaper and similar power to a s/c on regular boost.
01-06-2011, 11:47 AM
#21
Whats up with RDX owners?
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With a CT Icebox and stock exhaust + clogged cat I made 281/257. I just recently made 294.9whp with the 80mm TB and 2.5 exhaust running rich (11.5 @ WOT) and cracked/leaky headers. Theres more power to be made with my setup if I can get those AFRs in check.
01-06-2011, 02:49 PM
#23
Lives in Boost
For the initial labor + parts + custom parts (for more power), FI is still better imo. But to each his own. I at one point said I'd never boost my car because I wanted an all motor car, but things change
01-06-2011, 02:50 PM
#24
Lives in Boost
01-06-2011, 03:37 PM
#25
Three Wheelin'
I love boost. I like the the Turbo route better then SC. There is just something about the rush of TQ when it starts to spool. I really miss driving a turbo car. My only SC'ed vehicle I have now and its fun too, but it its so linear, no lag, no surge. Almost like a very stout N/A.
If I was to build a 4cyl, I would go turbo no questions. When talking about no replacment for displacement, well you can only bore & stroke any given cylinder so far and the fact that there are only 4 cylinders to spread it over, you can only increas the cubes so much. With V6 or V8, much more room for increasing cubic inches overall because more cylinders.
I think its cheaper to achieve a higher output with a turbo vs displacment on a 4 banger.
And when building a V8 (Im talking about American V8's, not a high tech import V8 from across the Atlantic) it is just as easy to achive a higher output through increasing displacment as a SC would yeild. $for$ I think its just up to the owner and what they want.
If I was to build a 4cyl, I would go turbo no questions. When talking about no replacment for displacement, well you can only bore & stroke any given cylinder so far and the fact that there are only 4 cylinders to spread it over, you can only increas the cubes so much. With V6 or V8, much more room for increasing cubic inches overall because more cylinders.
I think its cheaper to achieve a higher output with a turbo vs displacment on a 4 banger.
And when building a V8 (Im talking about American V8's, not a high tech import V8 from across the Atlantic) it is just as easy to achive a higher output through increasing displacment as a SC would yeild. $for$ I think its just up to the owner and what they want.
Last edited by CH46ESeaKnight; 01-06-2011 at 03:51 PM.
01-06-2011, 03:48 PM
#26
Meh, I think the point he was getting at is the money for those custom parts aren't worth it compared to a boosted app. I made 290whp on the stock TB, stock clutch, no IMRC, running as rich if not richer than Civic at WOT. If I were to get a tune I could hit the 320hp mark that other boosted CL's are running around with. Until I see an all motor CL breaking the 315-320hp mark I'll know I went with the better decision when I had my motor apart.
For the initial labor + parts + custom parts (for more power), FI is still better imo. But to each his own. I at one point said I'd never boost my car because I wanted an all motor car, but things change
For the initial labor + parts + custom parts (for more power), FI is still better imo. But to each his own. I at one point said I'd never boost my car because I wanted an all motor car, but things change
edit: and much easier to go the stroker route first, so that you can overbuild it, and then have no worries about boosting (spraying works too
, cheap power too) at a later date, and correctly size the S/C or turbo the first time around, so you only ever have to buy one 
Last edited by friesm2000; 01-06-2011 at 03:55 PM.
01-06-2011, 04:29 PM
#27
3.5 psi
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i would love to go the s/c route, but they are just hard to come by here. Shipping just kills the price, and it's hard to trust a sale for that much $ online. There's one for sale near me for the accord, but just asking too much $.
Price is the biggest factor for me, and the stroker wins.
Price is the biggest factor for me, and the stroker wins.
01-06-2011, 04:32 PM
#28
Lives in Boost
and much easier to get more power by cranking the boost up (to a point, then you need either a bigger S/C or turbo)
edit: and much easier to go the stroker route first, so that you can overbuild it, and then have no worries about boosting (spraying works too, cheap power too) at a later date, and correctly size the S/C or turbo the first time around, so you only ever have to buy one
edit: and much easier to go the stroker route first, so that you can overbuild it, and then have no worries about boosting (spraying works too
, cheap power too) at a later date, and correctly size the S/C or turbo the first time around, so you only ever have to buy one
01-06-2011, 04:37 PM
#29
Lives in Boost
i would love to go the s/c route, but they are just hard to come by here. Shipping just kills the price, and it's hard to trust a sale for that much $ online. There's one for sale near me for the accord, but just asking too much $.
Price is the biggest factor for me, and the stroker wins.
Price is the biggest factor for me, and the stroker wins.
01-06-2011, 04:40 PM
#30
$1500 in parts only plus PNP heads tb intake and runners. Labor to put engine back together is like 1200-1500 in labor. Only person thatdoes that right way is Paul. But im not able to put out of pocket that money he wants its just to much for me. Im not saying that its not worth it, im sure it is. S/C seems to be half of that. Not counting the exhaust tune whatever more. To much
01-06-2011, 04:50 PM
#31
3.5 psi
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what parts come up to 1500? that labor sounds right, but there are other mechanics who know their stuff, just not as well as Paul. A stroker motor is not that crazy of a build for a good mechanic.
01-06-2011, 04:57 PM
#32
Crank bearings rods pistons and tls valves. I agree about any good mechanic can do that but who would you trust to do pnp heads intake etc ? It has to be done right otherwise you wont see to much gains. As well you can do clutch timing service at the time. Im just not sure i could afford that right now.
01-06-2011, 05:29 PM
#33
True but you can only overbuild it to the point of the pistons. The problem lies with compression. Your initial stroker would have high(er) compression pistons as opposed to 8/9:1's during an intended boost build. You wouldn't throw a 3.6 stroker together with low compression pistons, you must use higher compression to retain/achieve the power so you can't throw a turbo or SC on there that easily without either thicker head gaskets, fuel (larger injectors) or water/meth and/or intercooler to offset what will be going on in the cylinder walls.
injectors- not too expensive, and even then, you can do a dual injector setup (with proper management capability), and the fuel flow rates, would be the sum of both injectors (so you do the injectors already upgraded for the stroker, and maybe kkep your stockers around too
)water/meth; you can also use it on a NA to help make more power also, so.... you might need larger nozzles.... or more
intercooler, that is part of the forced induction setup though, so you can't really do that
but even then, most of what you listed is external (minus head gaskets) of the "CORE" engine, and are easily upgraded (you are going to have to change some parts out and such, but the main thing was so that you did not have to crack the motor back open; that water/meth will let you get away with the higher compression with boost too)(and personally i want like a 12:1 compression motor with boost so that it maintains really good low end power, and will get that turbo to spool quickly, it may not "scream", but will be powerful as f@ck in the powerband most used)
01-06-2011, 05:52 PM
#34
, paul just happens to do so many of them, that he has learned them so well (and can probably do them faster too, knowing them so well)Crank bearings rods pistons and tls valves. I agree about any good mechanic can do that but who would you trust to do pnp heads intake etc ? It has to be done right otherwise you wont see to much gains. As well you can do clutch timing service at the time. Im just not sure i could afford that right now.
paul more then likely be willing to port the heads/intake for you, then will ship them to you/mechanic
that way you are not shipping a motor across the country which is not cheap
, you mean put in a new clutch?
01-06-2011, 06:04 PM
#35
Lives in Boost
but even then, most of what you listed is external (minus head gaskets) of the "CORE" engine, and are easily upgraded (you are going to have to change some parts out and such, but the main thing was so that you did not have to crack the motor back open; that water/meth will let you get away with the higher compression with boost too)(and personally i want like a 12:1 compression motor with boost so that it maintains really good low end power, and will get that turbo to spool quickly, it may not "scream", but will be powerful as f@ck in the powerband most used)
01-06-2011, 06:13 PM
#37
Whats up with RDX owners?
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Meh, I think the point he was getting at is the money for those custom parts aren't worth it compared to a boosted app. I made 290whp on the stock TB, stock clutch, no IMRC, running as rich if not richer than Civic at WOT. If I were to get a tune I could hit the 320hp mark that other boosted CL's are running around with. Until I see an all motor CL breaking the 315-320hp mark I'll know I went with the better decision when I had my motor apart.
For the initial labor + parts + custom parts (for more power), FI is still better imo. But to each his own. I at one point said I'd never boost my car because I wanted an all motor car, but things change
For the initial labor + parts + custom parts (for more power), FI is still better imo. But to each his own. I at one point said I'd never boost my car because I wanted an all motor car, but things change
On boost, you shouldnt run a large intake. The stock setup is fine. The reason I wouldnt s/c my motor is the CT kit uses the M62 which doesnt run efficiently (i.e. - spinning out of its recommended RPM range and running hot), even on the 3.2l.
Im not saying boost isnt worth it. When using the correct parts, it most certainly is worth it. but with the current bolt on kit offered by CT, stroking the motor gives you the same power (if not more) for the same price or less. It also gives you a nice platform to build off of it if the current power levels aren't enough.
Also, the only thing I have on my engine that is custom is the throttle body. Thats only because the A2 intake manifold snout isnt thick enough to bore out, so cutting and welding a new snout is required.
The intake is 3.5" intercooler piping, the exhaust is CT b-pipe and mufflers and XS-headers. Yea, my valves springs are aftermarket, but you can get away with OE parts (just get the TL-S exhaust springs, theyre stiffer). Everything else in the motor is off the shelf Honda parts.
01-06-2011, 06:33 PM
#38
yeah i want low end power and NOT just top end (when i drive the wife's WRX, i really miss my low end torque, but the spooling does help compensate for that though lol) (and just will inject water/meth to overcome the octane requirement, and keeping the motor intact lol)
but it's all wishful thinking right now though
(not completely though, but for the most part is)
all that should really just cost parts though, because all of it has to come off anyways, and instead you just put the new parts on instead (you could say maybe an hour "extra" to unwrap the new parts and such, but that is about it though
but it's all wishful thinking right now though
(not completely though, but for the most part is)all that should really just cost parts though, because all of it has to come off anyways, and instead you just put the new parts on instead (you could say maybe an hour "extra" to unwrap the new parts and such, but that is about it though
01-06-2011, 07:19 PM
#39
Personally I am just going to do the ported tb/intake/runners. I am not going to mill the head or do anything to it. If I can I want to get a p2r header or a custom set made. Then a 2.5 or 3" custom exhaust. Then swap over the auto engine harness/sensors and tune on aem ems. That should be enough for me along with lightening my car.