Hey people, just wanted to let everyone know what's been happening here lately. I'm currently building a 3.5 out of a 21,xxx mile J32A2 complete motor I bought just for this sole reason. Paid $275 (non-typical- got the hook up) from LKQ and let me say, this thing was CLEAN! Engine was completely dismantled, broken down and then sent block and heads to machine shop to have them checked (just to be sure) and cleaned. Even though motor was low mileage, my builder decided that doing a .020 over would be best just so we had a clean bore and the extra (very little) displacement. While he was doing that, I went ahead and purchased the following brand new parts for the rotating assembly:
1. J35A8 (05+ RL) new forged steel crankshaft from Acura ($380)
2. Wiseco .020 over forged piston with lowered lands for nitrous use ($925)
3. Total seal gapless rings (file to fit) rings specifically for nitrous ($110)
4. Toga HP hardened performance main and rod bearings (standard size) ($100)
5. Crower billet steel forged 4340 connecting rods with oil holes drilled at small bore and 220k tensile strength fasteners ($950)
6. Custom machined complete 220k main fasteners 12-point head (case of Bud Light)

That's for the bottom end. I will make an additional entry here soon and list further parts list and any work done. Can't wait boys...

 

Make sure you dyno!!! Would be interesting to see how your build compares to other 3.5 builds.

 

There will be dynos on the motor for sure, don't worry. :-)

Before listing any more parts, I'd like to also mind everyone that I'm still in the process of brainstorming/deciding/considering any other parts that aren't listed, specific engine work for performance increase (machine work, etc...) and any other original and/or unoriginal ideas others may have. Not to be arrogant but money is something I'm determined to make not a hindrance. So please, feel free to throw me constructive!

As for other "top-end" parts I have already ordered and purchased, they include the following:
1. OBX fuel rails with stainless steel braided fuel lines ($110)
2. 2004 Mustang Cobra (aka: Focus SVT pump) oem in-tank fuel pump (rated at 500+ HP) that was actually installed today. :-) (FREE and BNIB!)
3. Six Dynotune wet direct port fogger nozzles ($200)
4. Factory Oem J32A2 lower intake manifolds drilled/tapped on individual runner for NO2 fogger nozzles ($175)
5. Factory Oem J35A8 (05+ RL) upper intake manifold ($150)
6. Underdrive crank pulley UR ($125)
7. DC Sports headers ($225)
8. AEM cold air intake ($290)

Parts TO BE PURCHASED (these are the parts I need a little guidance on)

1. Fuel injectors (possibly J32A2 as this motor will be roughly 300 n/a and nitrous is wet setup so oem should be fine)
2. Head gaskets (as thin as possible without risking any leaks or reliability). Current CR ration is 10.4:1 before milling heads or using thin head gasket.
3. Intake/exhaust valves (looking for any performance/hardened/stainless steel valves) and springs. KMS has a nice set of performance springs and retainers that I have my sights on. Could not find any performance valves yet.
4. Should I sleeve the block or buy a block guard (won't be using any less than 200hp shot of NO2)?
5. Cams. I am also strongly considering the Bisimoto stage 2 cams but am currently awaiting a response back from them to help me decide. If this route doesn't follow through I will using the factory J32A2 cams. Brand new of course.
6. Intake/heads will be port matched only as I see no big gains with these motors nor restrictive castings. If anything, valve pockets will receive some work...maybe a 3/5 angle valve job. Heads will be milled to produce between 12:1-12.4:1 CR.
7. Large throttle body. 70mm is what I've been looking into along with the use of the Q45 TPS. Any ideas here?
8. Transmission. Will be using a freshly rebuilt transmission (5AT) with upgraded clutches and hardened shafts as well as trans. Fluid cooler w/thermostatically controlled fan. Amsoil synthetic ATF.

That's all for now, I'm sure I've left something out somewhere but just ask if there's anything noticed.

 

what type of fuel do you plan on using and how large of a shot? That can be a deciding factor for the size of injectors. But I would say go bigger than you expect.. I over killed my fuel setup for my civic hatch, just so it was a buy once and forget about it.

 

Will be using 93 Shell only (as I always do) and plan on using minimum of a 250hp wet shot and will do a meth-injection setup IF NEEDED. Therefore because of me using a wet setup, larger injectors shouldn't be needed. If anything, I may need to get a performance high volume EFI fuel pump rather than the Ford 4.6 DOHC Cobra pump I'm currently using but I doubt that would even have to happen.

 

Where are you getting your auto trans from / built?

 

Nobody that's recognized on this sight or anything. Just a small local shop here in Dallas with a pleasant reputation and he's built a few other trannys for me in the past and always seems to fulfill the expectations of those that I refer to him. He's not a Honda/Acura specialist but he takes his time during the process and even sends my phone pics of his findings and I like that about him. Most builders of this sort talk alot of BS and claim they have found the issues only to let you down a few hundred miles down the road.

I need some expert advice on the last list I gave please!

 

You should get your crank knife edged and lightened while your at it.

 

Because of you and remembering you saying this a while back, I asked my machinists assistant about doing the knife edge on the crank and he said that it's one of those things where benefits<money. Guess I should do some Goosearch on this procedure and see for myself. As for the lightening, I will more than likely get that done before having the bottom end balanced.

One last thing, I just read my Crower receipt and noticed the rods weight were 378g. If I remember correctly, a factory J35 rod (05+ RL) weighs 529g. That's a pretty large difference in weight and was pretty excited to have seen that!

 

Btw, if anybody is looking for any J32/35 parts, I have ALOT of different parts to choose from...both used and new. Shoot me a PM and I'll let you know ifbive got it.

I have a J32A2 factory forged steel crankshaft, factory forged steel connecting rods (qty6), and factory cast flat top pistons (qty6). All parts have 21,xxx miles on them and the rods/pistons are still assembled. All parts have been sprayed with WD40, wrapped in microfiber cloth and then sealed in large plastic bags to ensure nothing happens to them. When the 3.5 build is complete I will be selling my original J32A2 motor and more than likely it will be complete minus the wiring harness. Just so it's known, I have easily ran 30-40 bottles of nitrous through this thing but still runs amazingly at 135,xxx miles. It has been meticulously cared for with 1000 mile oil change intervals with Mobil 1 extended performance oil. Would make one helluva motor for a low budget swap or make an excellent rebuildable core. No "dibs" calls will be accepted so please wait for my call on who wants the motor.

 

Took a few pictures of some things I have with me for the build and decided to post them for everyone...

first pic is of the direct port wet nozzles that will be tapped into the lower intake manifold to deliver the fuel and nitrous


next pic is a side-by-side comaprison of the Crower rod (left) against the factory J35A8 rod (right)...there's quite a healthy difference in both size and weight. These will also be polished before being installed to help with oil cutting (think wind resistance on a car)


then, another comparison of the upper intake on the J35A8 before and after having custom cnc machine work/polishing done to it. although not finished yet, it sure looks brilliant!





And yes, that is the SAME intake manifold! :-)

 

wow...that's gorgeous work.

 

manifold looks really good!

 

Btw, I made this spacer for the 2nd generation style EGR port thats round and not oval but decided to go to direct port into the lower manifold instead. This spacer has been milled 1/2" on each side (top and bottom) totaling 1" removed. It will be required to use P2R gaskets to raise the ports up higher to clear the fuel rail...maybe even 2 gaskets. All ports were tapped for 1/16NPT thread fittings and are all perfectly done. Also, all casting marks on the outer perimeter were taken off and smoothed down to enhance the appearance. Bought the spacer brand new from Acura dealer 3 weeks ago. Make me an offer if anyone is interested! Again, is not a direct bolt on component for the first generation J-series (including the J32A2) engines and you must port match the EGR ports from round to oval to work....although they do line up vertically.

 

Jealous of the rods
What's the weight difference of the rods ?

 

Thanks. The machinist is a very good friend of mine and amazes me every time. He was cool engough to record the process on his iphone and send me updates through out and that was cool to see. If anyone has any ideas about parts they want modified or built, let me know and I can run it by him.

Thanks man, you were a big inspiration to my build (as well as many others) and I needed that to push me into going all out on this thing. I dug long and hard on just about every part Ipurchased and shopped around to find the best price. FYI, these were BY FAR some the best/cheapest rods I could find and they were on clearance and in stock. I made a link to the webpage for those needing some strong aftermarket rods for their build here: https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-2001-2003-50/clearance-j35-crower-rods-cheap-865782/

Here's the spec sheet that was included with the rods also:



What really shocked me about these rods was that they were crack separated on the big-end bore and not made with two separately machined pieces...that I really wasnt expecting. I even took a shot of the crack to highlight exactly what I mean. Notice the small, hairline crack rather than a large parting line. This makes a BIG difference in overall strength and reliability!

 

Those rods would be a nice addition to a lightened/knife edge crank. Removing Rotating mass is huge. Any little bit helps.

 

Mistype 378g?



That tag says the rod weighs 560g. Rotating mass, 397g, is the weight of the big end. Reciprocating weight is the small end. When they balance the crank, they'll bolt 397g bob weights on to each rod journals to simulate the reciprocating weight.

 

More like mis-remembering...

As long as they allow me to run 300+ shots, that's all I care about. :-)

 

A 300 SHOT...
OMG...are you trying to recreate a F & F racing scene???!

 

Fun fact for you: excessive use of nitrous while racing will cause damage to floor pan rivets. If it happened to Paul Walker don't think for a SECOND that it won't happen to you!

 

Alright, just dropped off the pistons (gorgeous f*ckers they were!), gapless totalseal rings, Crower rods to my builder. His assistant has his own head porting business (EDS porting I believe) and I paid $750 to have the heads professionally ported and reworked. Took him all factory intake/exhaust gaskets as well for port matching. He had a Supra head he was working on at the time and was VERY impressed with his skill. Besides, who would need more power? That combined with Bisi/s cams....orgasmic!

Got these OBX rails in a few minutes ago. Have to say, for $110 on Ebay, you cant beat the quality of thedesign and finish!

 

Nice!
Make sure to pick up some ARP rivets for the floor pan while you're at it!


I guess I was shocked at what a huge shot you plan to introduce. Why not go with something like a huge turbo that'll put the power there almost all the time?

 

But I thought you were sparing no expense



Sorry, had to

 

Lol...ahh, civic....without you around who would be here to hate? ;-)

It's not that it's just he said the gains are so small it's not even worth doing if you have the money. Literally speaking, I could have NASCAR design and build me a set of cylinder heads for this J and would gain an extra 15hp but for what...$150k? But yeah, whatever, I got your "point".

 

Hate? Read again, its called sarcasm

 

not being to take a joke seems like a trend among a lot a "young one"s on acurazine these days...

 

No offense guys. I just noticed how "dickheadish" that last reponse seemed and my lack of any ques to indicate that I too was being sarcastic...nothing meant by all that everyone. This is all for fun and to just enlighten those with cool stories, pictures and various things we all do to our cars. I generally jump on the forum while at work and can get rushed when giving a response so if I come off the wrong way, its only because I simply am doing 400,000 things at once.

Anyways, Im still here at the shop now (at 6:52pm) and had a good friend of mine send a guy out to do some fender rolling on both front and rear so I can finnally get these damn 19's tucked! Ive had them for several weeks now just stacked on top of each other and have been trying to find the time and the person to do the rolling. Ill post up some pics after he's finished either tonight or in the morning!

 

What are you going to us for tuning... think I missed that

 

I haven't decided on that yet. As of now, I'm running a 330hp shot on a factory motor/ECM and see no issues. I'm hoping that I might be able to increase fuel pressure until I reach a "level" ST/LT fuel trim. After that Ill progressively add more power until I either see any issues or reach my anticipated level of power. I've been very suprised on the engine electronics adaptability when using nitrous. I'm sure the "limit" (so to speak) is approaching soon after my current level but until that becomes, I will try what I have. If any issues what so ever are seen, I will gladly purchase a EMS...more than likely AEM standalone. I'm not doing this to conserve (referring back to thread title) but why replace something that can effectively do that job? A rich mixture, colder plugs, high octane fuel, and a meth-kit can go a long way in my situation. Not one off those would hinder any performance/reliability.

 

cant wait to see some track numbers.. i think ur going to have traction issues before u can really do what the car can do. and if u fix that ull break axles like civic lol. but either way i wanna see wtf happens to a cl when u shovel that much nitrous into it

 

Might I add that this is a TL?

I know we have forum specific applications here but this is more about the J32A2 then the car.

As for traction issues, I just switched to 19" RDX wheels and they're pretty fat. I had traction issues in 1st and 2nd but seem to have been done away with when I put these wheels on yesterday...still in test mode.

 

Dont get what that has to do with it either? The TL has the J32A2 as well, not just the CL

 

I misread your tone and it wasn't aimed only at you, buddy. Not sure why the "dickheadish" name calling was necessary.

PS, you still haven't answered my question about why you'd opt for such a huge shot rather than going forced induction since you're beefing up internals enough for some serious power. That wasn't sarcasm...it was a sincere question.

 

I was referring to my own comment when I used that term...not you nor anybody else. Lets move along now.

Im not a fan of FI (I personally dont consider nitrous FORCED induction) and all the fabrication, tuning issues, headaches that come along with it. I love the simplicity and RAW horsepower/torque of some spray on any motor. I have a few friends that all have turbo's and it seems to me like they have to go "tune" their cars every other week or so. Dont get me wrong, there's nothing better than the sound of a turbine hissing and spoolin' but I work too much and value my time and enjoy being able to ENJOY driving my car with minimal maintenance and repairs. And of course this is all IMO.

 

i hope for ur sake its going to be reliable after all this effort time and money. i only have one car and the cl is it so i cannot do anything too intense to my ride in the event it causes a problem i will be carless, workless and just pissed off in general.

so no FI for me and nitrous is illegal here... booooOOOO so that's all she wrote

 

@ sarcasm and sensitivity !!!

yungone, this build is going to be awesome....have you dynoed the car before the build to see where you were at?

 

thanks for the response, bud.
guess you're not one of the young one's I was referring to after all!

I could see what you mean about that...I'd love to see what it feels like to be in a car on spray. Especially a substantial shot like that. I dig the fact that the car will pretty much drive and sound normally and get decent gas mileage (?) when you're not shooting it up.

 

You bring up a very notable point man. I was building this motor initially for all out performance with no regards to any other aspect. Aside from the heavy dosed nitrous use (which accounts for the most abuse/risk of engine longevity), I was also going to use theBisi stage II cams. But I've somewhat reconsidered this idea ONLY because they are not known to have a lengthy service life in regards to wear. On the opposing side, I've also heard that this is normally due to improper installation and/or rocker adjustment which also makes alot of sense. I've built several high-performance motors and I know this to be the most critcial step when using aftermarket camshafts and I myself have never really had any issues using them and have had very extensive use out of all that I installed...though they were big name companys like Comp Cams, Crane, etc...

Btw, nitrous is illegal here too...but only if its not empty or disconnected. Do you think they would see me purging while taking my time pulling over? (joke)

I appreciate the kind gesture. No I have not dynoed yet and in case you havent noticed yet, everyone is giving me the 3rd degree because of it. LOL... I promise (TO EVERYONE!) that here in the near future, I will have numbers from my current setup.

As for the name "Yungone501", this was a my first ever email address from Yahoo (back in what...1995?) that I just started using for every screen name, forum, or just any means of internet identification because I have this strange OCD with keeping routine. Im actually an old SOB with 4 kids, a wife, tons of bills and a badass (cars of course) career as an electrical technician/shop manager at a highly reputable shop located in Plano, Tx called Auto Electric Systems. Most locals know us as just AES and we've been around over 30 years. Well the business has, im not THAT old! But who cares.....

As for drivability and fuel mileage, yes, that all remains the same on the engine. I imagine a nitrous setup (wet or dry) as its own isolated system thats mechanically/electrical separate from the motor (not literallly) and because of that, it has no parasitic or physical effect on the engine charactoristics. Yes, the shot is unimaginately insane! Our motors generally produce 260-300hp (at the crank) depeneding on what mods we do. Then if you have a 330hp shot...its technically like having 2 engines power the car instead of one. So yeah, IT HAULS ASS for lack of a better explanation.

 

you should get some 17 or 18 light weight rims at least 8 inches wide for better performance old man.