2001 Acura 3.2CL, need advice after a misfire
10-03-2022, 05:05 PM
#1
5th Gear
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2001 Acura 3.2CL, need advice after a misfire
I have a 2001 Acura 3.2CL with about 135k km on it. Original owner. Need some advice on what to do after a misfire. It's not in the best shape so any time something goes wrong the first question is whether it's worth fixing or time to put the money towards another car.
What happened:
Last week as I was pulling in to park the engine started shuddering, check engine light came on, there was a slight smell of something not right. After I got done at the store it started fine, check engine light was still on, but it was running fine so I carefully/slowly drove it over to my usual garage since it was close by.
I'd had a misfire issue 10 years ago and this felt similar but way less severe. Last time it was shuddering a lot more violently, smoking from under the hood and smelt really bad. That time I immediately pulled over, had it towed and they found 2 bad ignition coils which they replaced along with the sparkplugs.
This time they (different garage) checked the codes which showed misfire on 5 and 6. Apparently the sparkplugs looked fine so they swapped the coils which fixed #5 but #6 was still misfiring. To investigate further they removed the intake manifold and found oil or something which they cleaned out from somewhere and that fixed the misfire.
I've only talked with the shop manager not the mechanic so I don't know exactly where they cleaned or what the oil or whatever they cleaned looked like.
Their concern of course is it's something that will soon be fatal like piston rings failing, head gasket, damaged cylinder wall etc... But I've never had any of the common symptoms of those like blowing white or black smoke, loss of power, overheating or burning oil. I don't know if they saw or experienced anything specific while working on it to make them think that is probably the root issue or if they're just going off the age of the car and what usually fails. From what I've read opening it up to check any of that is not cost effective. If you're going to do that you might as well be swapping a new engine in.
My question:
I feel like there's a chance it's not a soon to fail engine and maybe some further preventative maintenance and/or diagnostics might be worth the cost. I'll spend 500-1000 if it'll keep it going. From what I've read 'affordable' things that might address the root cause and extend the engines life include:
• checking/replacing the PCR valve
• disassembling the intake manifold to fully clean it and replace it's gaskets and seals
• replace the valve cover gaskets and seals
• replace the tube seals
• compression test
• leakdown test
I'm looking for opinions about doing any of that, if there's anything else affordable that might be worth doing, and also any questions I should be asking the mechanic about what exactly they saw and did that might be clues to the state of the engine.
Also wondering what I should be watching for while driving after I pick it up tomorrow that would mean it's on its way to the scrap yard soon.
Apologies for the long post, appreciate any advice 🙂
What happened:
Last week as I was pulling in to park the engine started shuddering, check engine light came on, there was a slight smell of something not right. After I got done at the store it started fine, check engine light was still on, but it was running fine so I carefully/slowly drove it over to my usual garage since it was close by.
I'd had a misfire issue 10 years ago and this felt similar but way less severe. Last time it was shuddering a lot more violently, smoking from under the hood and smelt really bad. That time I immediately pulled over, had it towed and they found 2 bad ignition coils which they replaced along with the sparkplugs.
This time they (different garage) checked the codes which showed misfire on 5 and 6. Apparently the sparkplugs looked fine so they swapped the coils which fixed #5 but #6 was still misfiring. To investigate further they removed the intake manifold and found oil or something which they cleaned out from somewhere and that fixed the misfire.
I've only talked with the shop manager not the mechanic so I don't know exactly where they cleaned or what the oil or whatever they cleaned looked like.
Their concern of course is it's something that will soon be fatal like piston rings failing, head gasket, damaged cylinder wall etc... But I've never had any of the common symptoms of those like blowing white or black smoke, loss of power, overheating or burning oil. I don't know if they saw or experienced anything specific while working on it to make them think that is probably the root issue or if they're just going off the age of the car and what usually fails. From what I've read opening it up to check any of that is not cost effective. If you're going to do that you might as well be swapping a new engine in.
My question:
I feel like there's a chance it's not a soon to fail engine and maybe some further preventative maintenance and/or diagnostics might be worth the cost. I'll spend 500-1000 if it'll keep it going. From what I've read 'affordable' things that might address the root cause and extend the engines life include:
• checking/replacing the PCR valve
• disassembling the intake manifold to fully clean it and replace it's gaskets and seals
• replace the valve cover gaskets and seals
• replace the tube seals
• compression test
• leakdown test
I'm looking for opinions about doing any of that, if there's anything else affordable that might be worth doing, and also any questions I should be asking the mechanic about what exactly they saw and did that might be clues to the state of the engine.
Also wondering what I should be watching for while driving after I pick it up tomorrow that would mean it's on its way to the scrap yard soon.
Apologies for the long post, appreciate any advice 🙂
10-03-2022, 05:09 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
I have a 2001 Acura 3.2CL with about 135k km on it. Original owner. Need some advice on what to do after a misfire. It's not in the best shape so any time something goes wrong the first question is whether it's worth fixing or time to put the money towards another car.
What happened:
Last week as I was pulling in to park the engine started shuddering, check engine light came on, there was a slight smell of something not right. After I got done at the store it started fine, check engine light was still on, but it was running fine so I carefully/slowly drove it over to my usual garage since it was close by.
I'd had a misfire issue 10 years ago and this felt similar but way less severe. Last time it was shuddering a lot more violently, smoking from under the hood and smelt really bad. That time I immediately pulled over, had it towed and they found 2 bad ignition coils which they replaced along with the sparkplugs.
This time they (different garage) checked the codes which showed misfire on 5 and 6. Apparently the sparkplugs looked fine so they swapped the coils which fixed #5 but #6 was still misfiring. To investigate further they removed the intake manifold and found oil or something which they cleaned out from somewhere and that fixed the misfire.
I've only talked with the shop manager not the mechanic so I don't know exactly where they cleaned or what the oil or whatever they cleaned looked like.
Their concern of course is it's something that will soon be fatal like piston rings failing, head gasket, damaged cylinder wall etc... But I've never had any of the common symptoms of those like blowing white or black smoke, loss of power, overheating or burning oil. I don't know if they saw or experienced anything specific while working on it to make them think that is probably the root issue or if they're just going off the age of the car and what usually fails. From what I've read opening it up to check any of that is not cost effective. If you're going to do that you might as well be swapping a new engine in.
My question:
I feel like there's a chance it's not a soon to fail engine and maybe some further preventative maintenance and/or diagnostics might be worth the cost. I'll spend 500-1000 if it'll keep it going. From what I've read 'affordable' things that might address the root cause and extend the engines life include:
• checking/replacing the PCR valve
• disassembling the intake manifold to fully clean it and replace it's gaskets and seals
• replace the valve cover gaskets and seals
• replace the tube seals
• compression test
• leakdown test
I'm looking for opinions about doing any of that, if there's anything else affordable that might be worth doing, and also any questions I should be asking the mechanic about what exactly they saw and did that might be clues to the state of the engine.
Also wondering what I should be watching for while driving after I pick it up tomorrow that would mean it's on its way to the scrap yard soon.
Apologies for the long post, appreciate any advice 🙂
What happened:
Last week as I was pulling in to park the engine started shuddering, check engine light came on, there was a slight smell of something not right. After I got done at the store it started fine, check engine light was still on, but it was running fine so I carefully/slowly drove it over to my usual garage since it was close by.
I'd had a misfire issue 10 years ago and this felt similar but way less severe. Last time it was shuddering a lot more violently, smoking from under the hood and smelt really bad. That time I immediately pulled over, had it towed and they found 2 bad ignition coils which they replaced along with the sparkplugs.
This time they (different garage) checked the codes which showed misfire on 5 and 6. Apparently the sparkplugs looked fine so they swapped the coils which fixed #5 but #6 was still misfiring. To investigate further they removed the intake manifold and found oil or something which they cleaned out from somewhere and that fixed the misfire.
I've only talked with the shop manager not the mechanic so I don't know exactly where they cleaned or what the oil or whatever they cleaned looked like.
Their concern of course is it's something that will soon be fatal like piston rings failing, head gasket, damaged cylinder wall etc... But I've never had any of the common symptoms of those like blowing white or black smoke, loss of power, overheating or burning oil. I don't know if they saw or experienced anything specific while working on it to make them think that is probably the root issue or if they're just going off the age of the car and what usually fails. From what I've read opening it up to check any of that is not cost effective. If you're going to do that you might as well be swapping a new engine in.
My question:
I feel like there's a chance it's not a soon to fail engine and maybe some further preventative maintenance and/or diagnostics might be worth the cost. I'll spend 500-1000 if it'll keep it going. From what I've read 'affordable' things that might address the root cause and extend the engines life include:
• checking/replacing the PCR valve
• disassembling the intake manifold to fully clean it and replace it's gaskets and seals
• replace the valve cover gaskets and seals
• replace the tube seals
• compression test
• leakdown test
I'm looking for opinions about doing any of that, if there's anything else affordable that might be worth doing, and also any questions I should be asking the mechanic about what exactly they saw and did that might be clues to the state of the engine.
Also wondering what I should be watching for while driving after I pick it up tomorrow that would mean it's on its way to the scrap yard soon.
Apologies for the long post, appreciate any advice 🙂
10-03-2022, 05:13 PM
#3
5th Gear
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They already fixed the misfire, looking for deeper advice related to the undiagnosed root cause of the oil or whatever they cleaned out that was causing the misfire.
10-03-2022, 05:44 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
It's also fairly common to have oil in the intake manifold. Possibly from hose that connects to front valve cover or pcv.
With time it puddles up.
10-03-2022, 05:49 PM
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I'd read about oil pooling and grime buildup in the intake manifold in other threads, I want to ask the mechanic what they actually saw and what they cleaned.
10-03-2022, 06:00 PM
#6
Burning Brakes
Sure, if you want. It takes like 15 min to pull the coils and check the compression. The tool threads in the spark plug hole and you just disable the fuel pump, hold the throttle open and crank the motor a few times to build up pressure.
The following 2 users liked this post by 619rcr:
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10-04-2022, 09:36 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
I love when people start to explain (what may seem like) a complicated thing to others with the word "just..." 
Here is a nice video showing how to do a compression test on our 2G cars.
Here is a nice video showing how to do a compression test on our 2G cars.
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619rcr (10-04-2022)
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10-04-2022, 09:59 PM
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Talked to the mechanic when I picked it up. He did do a compression test while diagnosing it and everything was good there. The oil and buildup he cleaned out was all in the intake manifold. Said there was a lot of buildup in there. Kind of suspect part of that could have been from the misfire 10 years ago when it was smoking under the hood. Garage that handled that never suggested cleaning anything.
Spark plugs were all good, no sign of oil there. No sign of valve covers leaking, or that it was burning oil.
He hadn't checked the PCV valve but did while I was there and it is sticking a bit so going to replace that.
Fairly confident based on everything that nothing is going to imminently fail. At least as confidentiality as you can be about that for a 22 year old car even with relatively low mileage.
After the serving the engine is running much better. Before doing
Spark plugs were all good, no sign of oil there. No sign of valve covers leaking, or that it was burning oil.
He hadn't checked the PCV valve but did while I was there and it is sticking a bit so going to replace that.
Fairly confident based on everything that nothing is going to imminently fail. At least as confidentiality as you can be about that for a 22 year old car even with relatively low mileage.
After the serving the engine is running much better. Before doing
10-04-2022, 11:38 PM
#10
Burning Brakes
Good point, simple but seldom done task. I usually remove the 3 screws that hold the triangular cover plate (under the trunk liner) then pull the plug off the pump.
Last edited by 619rcr; 10-04-2022 at 11:42 PM.
10-04-2022, 11:48 PM
#11
Burning Brakes
Talked to the mechanic when I picked it up. He did do a compression test while diagnosing it and everything was good there. The oil and buildup he cleaned out was all in the intake manifold. Said there was a lot of buildup in there. Kind of suspect part of that could have been from the misfire 10 years ago when it was smoking under the hood. Garage that handled that never suggested cleaning anything.
Spark plugs were all good, no sign of oil there. No sign of valve covers leaking, or that it was burning oil.
He hadn't checked the PCV valve but did while I was there and it is sticking a bit so going to replace that.
Fairly confident based on everything that nothing is going to imminently fail. At least as confidentiality as you can be about that for a 22 year old car even with relatively low mileage.
After the serving the engine is running much better. Before doing
Spark plugs were all good, no sign of oil there. No sign of valve covers leaking, or that it was burning oil.
He hadn't checked the PCV valve but did while I was there and it is sticking a bit so going to replace that.
Fairly confident based on everything that nothing is going to imminently fail. At least as confidentiality as you can be about that for a 22 year old car even with relatively low mileage.
After the serving the engine is running much better. Before doing
btw. edit works for i believe 10 or 15 min after posting.
10-07-2022, 02:17 PM
#12
Eurotrash
135k km is only 84k miles, so lots of life left!
Have you checked the idle air control valve IACV? They gum up and make it surge at idle. 'Just' pull it off and clean it.
Buy new ignition coils and carry on board along with 6mm hex, as they get flaky.
Crap builds up in the intake of all cars running on gasoline, and there are huge condensation channels in the intake manifold that need cleaning before the goop turns to varnish, along with the EGR and PCV. Likely an air-oil separator aka oil catch can would help in the long term, esp if one does lots of short distance driving, and the engine never gets hot for long.
Have you checked the idle air control valve IACV? They gum up and make it surge at idle. 'Just' pull it off and clean it.
Buy new ignition coils and carry on board along with 6mm hex, as they get flaky.
Crap builds up in the intake of all cars running on gasoline, and there are huge condensation channels in the intake manifold that need cleaning before the goop turns to varnish, along with the EGR and PCV. Likely an air-oil separator aka oil catch can would help in the long term, esp if one does lots of short distance driving, and the engine never gets hot for long.
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