Seattle Cl-S

1. Ok, I'm still leaking fluid and the smell is killing me. I'm almost positive it is tranny fluid because I wiped the underside of the car clean the other day and when I started the car drops started appearing under the tranny. Problem is, the fluid is dark like oil and not red like tranny fluid. Maybe it just picks up dirt?? The fluid is still pink on the dipstick. So, my question is this - where is the "overflow" for the tranny fluid? Some people have mentioned we have one but I can't find it. I will sleep batter at night if I know it is simply extra fluid coming out of the overflow valve and not some crack or something. I'd also like to get out of a $150 diagnostic fee if I could help it.

2. I'm pretty sure my catalytic converter is shot. I've been looking into the high-flow replacement options offered over at Random Technologies. Does anyone have one of these and what size do I need to get. Does it matter that I have the Comptech headers and B-pipe when it comes to sizing? My ultimate question is can't I just remove the existing cat and gut it or would I be contributing to ever-increasing temps in the south by depleting our ozone?

Allout

1) If it's dark, I highly doubt that it's still tranny fluid. If it was coming out of the vent, it would be pink like the rest of the fluid in your system. Other choices are engine oil or Power steering fluid. I wonder if you lost your rear main oil seal or you have oil pan gasket leak?

2) Can't just gut the cat or pull it. The secondary O2 sensor is expecting the cat to be there and your ECU will throw a fit if it's not there or if it's not tricked into thinking that its' there. Smitty can probably give you some info on what's needed to trick the ECU as he had to deal with that issue when he did the exhaust cutout. The highflow cat idea is probably the safest route and not for environmental reasons as I am far from a tree hugger

Good luck on finding the source of your oil leak.

Chemmech

Most likely your rear main seal on the engine is leaking. I verified my problem, with the rear main oil seal, by removing the inspection plate. Then I used a piece of tissue on a piece of hard wire and was able to wipe some engine oil from the crank shaft, between the torque convertor and the rear main oil seal.

Moodist

iTrader: (2)

I agree...from what was described it seems like a rear main seal issue. Isn't there a TSB out for it? I do not know it off-hand.

babyblue

There is a TSB out for the rear main seal...

johntypes

call random tech tell them you want it for a 02 aacord ,thats were I got mine it will bolt up perfect.

RUF87

Yes, check the 3rd link in this post.

http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showthread.php?t=169349

TSB - 01-041 / Issue Date: FEB 04 Issue: Engine - V6 Engine Oil Leaks

I'm guessing those of you with boosted engines are producing more internal pressures, resulting in a higher probability of failure.

Ruf

Chemmech

My seal is leaking again. Since the seal went out a second time , I am pretty sure that the rotation of the cranckshaft is eccentric . The next time I pull the engine I will be replacing the crank shaft bearings as well as the seal. Can any one tell me If the Helms manual covers this proceedure?

Seattle Cl-S

Please don't scare me like that! I wonder if the UR crank pulley is possibly contributing to excessive vibration.

Seattle Cl-S

Thanks everyone for your responses! I think the general concensus is rear main seal.

Seattle Cl-S

You're always the first one to respond to my posts...stalker! Thanks!

Smitty

If your Cat converter was shot, your O2 sensor would throw a CEL light.

If you have emissions testing in your County you will fail the emissions test, might be a fine involved and you car's exhaust fumes will smell like rotten eggs.

Smitty

You will need to find the Master of Auto Tranny's... EricL

Habib

Seattle CL-S maybe you should sell me the IC kit you got from mrsteve. I am quite interested let me know if you are willing to part with it. you can PM or email to andauto@yahoo.com.

Chemmech

I wonder what my oil pressure is when I wind the car? Maybe there's excessive pressure causing the seal to leak. Maybe the oil relief valve isn't designed to handle a strong surge of pressure and volume?

So, how many other boosted cars have rear main seal oil leaks? Just curious to see if there is a trend.

Seattle Cl-S

I just got back from the Acura dealer. It was, indeed, the rear main seal that was leaking. Apparently, the cost of the part needed is $12. The cost of the labor to remove the tranny, replace the seal, and reinstall the tranny is $960. This sucks ass! Since the tranny needs to come off anyway, I'm thinking about taking it to a tranny shop and seeing if they can reinforce it to handle the extra power from the IC...or maybe I should just stop modding and get a different car?? Ugh.

Seattle Cl-S

I'd be interested to know this as well.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

I had the rear main seal replaced on my CLS-6 (37,500 miles or so) back when the TSB first came out, around July or August 2004. Acura did it under warranty. The Tech asked me if I wanted to upgrade to a Comptech clutch, since they were going to have the tranny pulled. I declined. I rechecked to see if there was any leakage again at 46,700 miles, before I had the blower installed and it was OK. So far no leaks are present with about 50,300 miles on the car after the blower install :thumsup:

Habib

I know I shouldn't say this but here goes...You should sell the IC kit first (to me, 1st dibs), then sell or do whatever to the CL-S, and get a new TL or if you gots the money the new M5
I really want an IC, hopefully enough interest to get Scalbert to start making some again
Well just in case you decide to part email (andauto@yahoo.com) or PM me.

Allout

I just have no life and spend a lot of time on the boards

Allout

You could also just run the car as is if it's not leaking too badly. $960 buys a lot of oil. Once you put in the IC, maybe your tranny will fail under warranty and you can have the seal fixed at that time for $12.

Habib

yeah but they have prolly already seen his car SC so no warranty.

typeR

the motor mounts are fluid filled and it does look like motor oil

Chemmech

I don't mind the oil leak one bit, it's just the driveway and that damned smell of the oil burning on the catalytic convertor that bugs the shit out of me .

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

The SC doesn't void the warranty. They'd have to prove that the SC caused the transmission failure and with the amount of transmissions that fail on a weekly basis it would be impossible to 100% say the SC caused a failure. Your automatic transmission should be the 1 thing on the car that no matter what you modify; you're covered until 100k.

Allout

My dealer replaced my rear seal under warranty and I've got a SC. They just charged me for the additional time it took to remove the blower which I though was more than fair.

ThinJim

iTrader: (3)

my car has about 15k on it and the rear main oil seal is starting to go. I was up front with the dealer about my comptech flywheel and they said that if a rep was to look over my car and see the flywheel, it may not be covered and at that point i'd be responsible for the replacement. I've decided not to do it since the motor will be coming out soon anyway. dealers suck, there's no consistency between them.

*
you should just pull the SC off and take it to another dealer. it comes off very easy and you could have it up and running in a couple hours.
*
good luck with it!

Moodist

iTrader: (2)

I would find and print the TSB out and ask the dealer to do it in warranty since it is a common issue in Honda V6s. Or try to work out a deal like AllOut did, I think that is fair enough. Good luck with whatever happens.

Seattle Cl-S

They said if I got a cheaper quote from some other shop that they'd 'deal' with me to try to keep my business. I'll probably just have them do it since they know what they're doing.

Allout

If an upgraded tranny (like a Dr. Evil) is in your future, now is the time to do it. It would take away any fears with the added power of the IC. I just hate paying for labor twice.

When they did my rear seal, I took the opportunity to upgrade to the Comptech flywheel and friction plate. All it cost me was the parts since the labor was the same.

Seattle Cl-S

I've inquired about the upgraded tranny and it'll end up costing around $3k. That's about 1/4 of the price of the car. Just can't see it being worth it with this many miles on the tach. I wish my car was an '03 or, better yet, a 6-spd '03. I love the rarity of the CL and love being faster than cars that should hand me my ass. The looks on their faces really is priceless. The IC is icing on the cake but it may just open up a whole can of expensive worms with this many miles. How many people would buy a highly-modified CL w/o some tranny warranty left?