Scepter

iTrader: (2)

1st: On the highway or crusing at a constant speed (during cruise control) on level ground the rpms will shoot up 500 and drop 2-300 randomly but nothing is affected by this. Possible electronics problem?

2nd: Driving down residential streets it feels like the VSA turns on but no lights turn on to show this. Like the feeling of accelerating but then the car stops it so you feel like "hopping" kinda would describe it.

Any ideas of causes and possible fixes for these? Much thanks guys!

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

have u cleaned the iacv? seafoam?

Scepter

iTrader: (2)

actually...no, no I haven't. maybe I should try that tomorrow and see what happens.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

that should help

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Does the idle fluctuate when stopped?

Scepter

iTrader: (2)

no, the idle is fine when stopped or parked. Otherwise I was going to start checking for a vacuum leak.

CL-S24

I've been getting those same small revs when I'm on the freeway too. I can feel it slightly too, like a quarter of a rev up and down. any specifics on how to clean the iacv?

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Do it while the engine is cold. Remove the two coolant lines running into it, unplug the connector, unscrew the IACV. Use carb cleaner to clean all the ports and make sure the rotor can spin.

1hotcls6

spark plug misfire

Pseudomaniac

iTrader: (1)

If you're auto, that's telltale sign of the torque converter letting go. If you stomp it to accelerate at 60, does it slip before it kicks down / after it kicks down ?

1hotcls6

look for flashin CEL. = misfire

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Nice catch. I didnt realize he was an auto until I reread it and saw VSA

Scepter

iTrader: (2)

no slippage when I stomp on the gas. Just the usual half a second lag for auto trans you know...lol

Pseudomaniac

iTrader: (1)

any kind of clunking when shifting into R from Park when cold ?

May just be something stupid like a loose vac line / leaking vac line.

Scepter

iTrader: (2)

No weird clunking when shifting from R to D when the engines cold. I was just driving it this afternoon and it could be the engine mounts possibly? I had it in D, applied the brake and the whole front end lifted up pretty high when I goosed it a little...

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

u need new engine mounts

Pseudomaniac

iTrader: (1)

The stock struts are only good for about 100k of abuse too.....not sure about your idle surge though.

If the engine is racing higher in RPM while in motion, but the the vehicle isn't moving any faster - something between the flywheel and the tires isn't grabbing the power it's supposed to, or in the way it's supposed to.

Scepter

iTrader: (2)

well this weekend Im going to be replacing the suspension, springs shocks struts and top mounts, (cracked Comptech Springs and broken endlinks) probably also replace the old 1st gen Comptech RSB on it (looks extremely rusty).
get the motor mounts replaced, probably get one of those torque dampner things and some other stuff.

Ill see what happens when its all done.

djarovsky

I vote for the torque converter as well. That is exactly how my second tranny went.

Have the Acura dealer take a look at it....it took them a little time to reproduce the issue on mine, but they did.

Pseudomaniac

iTrader: (1)

The driveline isn't suspension components. The only reason suspension components would cause this is if you were bouncing the front wheels off the ground and losing traction, or if your camber was so out that your edges were losing traction under load.

DRIVELINE - THINK DRIVELINE!!!!