2 different 2001 cl-s speed difference?
Im not sure if its me or if its my two different 2001 cl-s? As some of you know, I busted the motor on my black 2001 acura cl-s because my timing belt went out on the freeway.... now i just picked up a white 2001 cl-s.... the new one has lower miles then the black one had.... but for some reason it feels slower??! when the black cl-s went out, i was driving a mercedes clk 320 for about a week or so....could it be that im switching from a different car? At first, the clk felt slow at startup compared to my black cl-s..... now that im driving my white one, it feels slower and when im at top speed it doesnt go much faster..... hopefully it was just because i drove the mercedes.... people cant put in a non type-s motor in a type -s car right? if they can, is there a way to tell the difference by looking at the motor? thanks
yes. look for the engine code. Should be on the drivers side of the engine right above the front motor mount on a little plate looking thing that protrudes from the block. If its says J32A1 then its the non S motor. If its J32A2 then its the S motor.
Also, look at the top of the manifold. If its completly flat, then its a non s while if it has 2 bends in it from left to right, then its the S
Also, look at the top of the manifold. If its completly flat, then its a non s while if it has 2 bends in it from left to right, then its the S
oh yea another thing i forget to mention was that the pedals on the new one seem stiffer then the old one...like the old one seems more normal while the new one feels like the gas and brake pedals are pushed in lower so when i step on it, its to the bottom already...not sure
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my nxt maint isnt until another 4k miles. whats the imrc youre talkin about?...rims and tires exactly the same....so is the new tranny suppose to make your car run slower???..it seems when i floor it, the car doesnt go as quick..does changing the oil and stuff make a difference?
Well I have to say I had the same thought when I wrecked my 2001 CL and bought a 2003 CL both autos and both had the same modifications except the 2001 had low profile tires and larger rims and oem shocks. the 2001 was totaled but I sold it to a friend who owns a body shop and he repaired it and kept it as a daily driver because he knew how well I maintained the car so I would go over to his shop and drive it and I thought it was faster but we raced several times and it turns out the 2003 was faster by 1/4 to 1/2 a car length everytime so we came to the conclusion that since the 2003 had a better suspension setup it had a smoother ride and that was deceptive. In the 2001 I would feel the road more so it just seemed faster. Also just in case anyone was thinking it was the driver we switched cars just to make sure it wasn't driver error.
Last edited by clpassenubye; Sep 26, 2008 at 10:31 PM.
Well I have to say I had the same thought when I wrecked my 2001 CL and bought a 2003 CL both autos and both had the same modifications except the 2001 had low profile tires and larger rims and oem shocks. the 2001 was totaled but I sold it to a friend who owns a body shop and he repaired it and kept it as a daily driver because he knew how well I maintained the car so I would go over to his shop and drive it and I thought it was faster but we raced several times and it turns out the 2003 was faster by 1/4 to 1/2 a car length everytime so we came to the conclusion that since the 2003 had a better suspension setup it had a smoother ride and that was deceptive. In the 2001 I would feel the road more so it just seemed faster. Also just in case anyone was thinking it was the driver we switched cars just to make sure it wasn't driver error.
The 2001 is at a disadvantage becos it has bigger wheels and oem shocks that will mk a difference. I know my car was faster b4 my transmission change .
do u have aftermarket rims on it?
i drove a cls w/ 20's and it was very slow compared to all the others i've driven so far.
i guess u can try changing out all the necessary things like spark plugs, filter, etc. (everything need for a regular tune up)
i drove a cls w/ 20's and it was very slow compared to all the others i've driven so far.
i guess u can try changing out all the necessary things like spark plugs, filter, etc. (everything need for a regular tune up)
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my nxt maint isnt until another 4k miles. whats the imrc youre talkin about?...rims and tires exactly the same....so is the new tranny suppose to make your car run slower???..it seems when i floor it, the car doesnt go as quick..does changing the oil and stuff make a difference?
It has been found many times in the past that a car that is having HP losses may have a IMRC issue. People who run a high boost pulley with a supercharger also disconnect the IMRC as it has been known to cook the forth cylinder. Good info here from a CL-S tuning Guru
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...light=reminder
thx black label. i mite just rip my old IMRC out of my black cl-s since it seemed to run more stronger, and slap it on my new one.... hopefully that works out fine.
as for any aftermarket rims, nope. completely stock...i dont think its the transmission that is slowing my car down.... because im all the way on 5th gear already and when i floor it, the car seems like its going gradually and not kicking hard like my old one is....so im assuming its the IMRC?
as for any aftermarket rims, nope. completely stock...i dont think its the transmission that is slowing my car down.... because im all the way on 5th gear already and when i floor it, the car seems like its going gradually and not kicking hard like my old one is....so im assuming its the IMRC?
Intake Manifold Runner Control
To the OP: Open the hood and rev your engine using the throttle body if you dont have anyone to help you. Watch the back of the IMRC actuator shown in the link above.
If you see that it moves, then its OK.
If it doesnt move or spin, then I would take it off your old motor and drop it into this one. Very easy to fix. Just 2 bolts and you are good.
If you want a new one, get a new one from Honda or http://acuraautomotiveparts.org/acur...s=&view=normal
They call it the bypass valve actuator and it costs $90
Trolling Canuckistan
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