CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

I was cruising the net and came across this 190amp upgraded alternator which directly fits our cars.

AND I THOUGHT OF you guys with systems and WANT to run the UNDERDRIVE PULLEY....

this should solve ur power worries!!

http://cgi.ebay.ca/99-2003-HONDA-ODE...item518aa5b452

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Isnt it widely known that the CL-P alternator made more power then the CL-S one? I swear I saw that in the FAQ.

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

6mt's get shafted even more. Less amps then a auto CLS.
I need to upgrade mine. I've been noticing dimming dash lights at night.

SG81

iTrader: (1)

does anyone know how many amps the 6mt alternator puts out?

RooEng

^ 105A vs 120A for the AT

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

mechman sells the best alt for our cars.
250amp rihno
It does 150 amps at idle.
they cost 499 but,they're the nicest ones.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I seriously LOL'd when I read the price.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

^ That's Only reason I didn't get one.
If I do get a upgraded one,that is the one I would get thou.
They put out what the are rated.
The factory case rewinds are junk because they wind them as big as they can to fit the factory case.
It will generate more heat like that and will fail sooner.
also with the rewinds they only build any kind of amp #'s till after 3,000 rpms.
I'm willing to bet that that alt would not even see 150 amps at peak.
the mechmans will do 150+ at idle.
You get what you pay for.

Joe5.0

Never knew the 6 speed had lower output alt. I have a ~ 500wrms system and never had any dimming.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Neither do I. Im running the underdrive pulley and putting out about 600watts to just my sub (I havent done the mids/highs yet) and I dont have any issues.

phee

iTrader: (5)

tl-p alternator here

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Yea, but you cheated

fsttyms1

Ditto

phee

iTrader: (5)

yea. i did take the easy way out. i bought the tl-p for the alternator. engine swap goes around it

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Exactly

OperationDarkie

iTrader: (1)

Just get a capacitor, thats what I did and I am still using the same alternator I had from 2003, running a 800w amp on one 12, but I only have the amp turned halfway up, cap got rid of all the dimming and what not, but it was a bad ass cap its like a 2 farad capacitor.

SG81

iTrader: (1)

thanks.

i didn't know it was so low. i'm running 1600 watts to my sub and haven't had any problems w/ dimming and my amp's fuse rating is 4x35A

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

WTF? Then why are my dash lights dimming at night? Battery is a red top, cables are good, no corrosion anywhere.
I have a 250W basslink the PIAA 35W fogs & my ipod.

SG81

iTrader: (1)

i do have a cap, if that helps.

i know everyone says caps are BS, but in my old car, i had 3 amps running and my lights were dimming all the time. i put in a 2fd cap and my lights were fine after that

SG81

iTrader: (1)

there should be no way you have dimming lights from just a basslink. something must be wrong? u sure your grounds are good?

OperationDarkie

iTrader: (1)

check your grounds on the battery terminal

then check chassis grounds

Had the same problem, replaced them with new ones, no problem since. That and added a capacitor.

Maybe your altenator is about to go out? Just check the easy stuff first.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Yea, the basslink shouldnt effect anything

duyx817

ima 03 cl-s and im only running 1400, all you really need is a 2fred cap and your all set, no dimming here

victorvu

iTrader: (1)

damn then i think i need this. im running 2600rms with a 2farad cap and its still dimming.

Nersh7

my alternator just went today, which one should I get to replace it??

OperationDarkie

iTrader: (1)

you might need another capacitor bro 2600 rms is alot of juice, make sure your alternator is lubed up well too.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

You need a larger cap.