SuperTrooper169

iTrader: (2)

The only thing that should change sound-wise after adding headers is a more aggressive deeper tone over all, definitely not softer sounding, especially at VTEC engagement. Weird.

CLSixspeed

mmmm..

ok, so maybe there is a problem...

what could have caused this?

SuperTrooper169

iTrader: (2)

^^ Like the other thread you're posting in, it could be your IMRC. Do a search and you'll find infinite amount of info on it and what it does. It's a pretty common part to go bad and need replacing. Bad IMRC = No VTEC engagement.

MADMAN187

can bolts of the same size and heat resistant be purchased at a hardware store..?

kyle77777

tnobori1

The Home Depot I went to didnt have em. I had better luck at an auto parts store.

blazntigz

ok so i just got mine installed today took 8 hrs and parts and labor = ~$450. Had a lot of problems a pipe wasnt level so i had to get it machined leveled. just really sucked but the mechanic said that it was well worth it because for that price each part individually is about 40-50 dollars separately. but the crappy worksmanship is a problem. he used the xs power gaskets and i dont know why but they seemed fine compared to the oem ones these are thick as fck. i love the sound i burned half a tank of gas trying to redline. very nice deeeeeeep tone. if i only had a cai in it would be even sicker. but even though i ran into all the install problems and labor costs imstill happy

CLSixspeed

everything is good... must have been the computer resetting...

Oakroadsteve

I got heat resistant bolts at Home Depot. I made sure that one of the associates familiar with that kind of hardware give me a hand. They were dramatically better than the ones that came with the headers.

Oakroadsteve

I have the same issue in that RPM range at relatively low speed. Both muffler shops I went to indicated the resonance was coming from inside the catalytic converter. I have 50K on my 2001 auto CLs maybe the cat needs to be replaced.

SuperTrooper169

iTrader: (2)

So does anyone remember the exact bolt/nut sizes and quanity? I used the shatty hardware that came with the headers and now I want to go back in and replace them with better heat treated hardware, but I have no idea the size/thread/quanity. Any help would be appreciated.

fsttyms1

I got grade 8 M10x30 10x40 will work as well. The pitch doesnt matter as long as you get the same pitch nuts to go with them

SuperTrooper169

iTrader: (2)

Cool, thanks man. So I'd need 6 of them total, right? 3 for each header to A-Pipe connection? Also is that mm's? So it'd be 10mm x 30mm or 10mm x 40mm?

CL-Future

I'll be purchasing header wrap and putting it over the flex pipe as this is where i'm pretty sure the hissing sound is coming from. It's pretty annoying and noticeable when I get on the gas regardless of the gear I'm in and is most apparent from 2000-3000 rpm's. I'll let you all know how it turns out.
Other than that, the XS headers are great. The jet hot coating I got looks great and the smoothness of the power gain is honestly addictive...

CLSixspeed

keep us all posted! if thats all it takes to make these headers fool proof... then its totally worth it!

ML03CLS

The hissing is my only complaint right now.. Sounds like my old chipped 1.8T A4 spooling up, which is not too enjoyable on a non-turbo car. I tried to listen where it was coming from, but couldn't make the noise without the engine under a load.

CL-Future

That's exactly what it sounds like!! Like a turbo spooling up but because you know you don't have a turbo it's annoying. I just ordered Silver exhaust wrap as well as high temp aluminum adhesive tape online. I'm going to tape where I suspect the leak is coming from (flex pipe) first and then put the silver wrap on. I should have more info on the results next week.

LIPPSTUH

iTrader: (2)

i have the same problem with this hissing... and a few weird sounds (kenny says it's resonance). it changes tone when passing 3000RPM. i'll check for leaks, probably comming from the flexpipe.

ironsurfer129

Quick question, does the factory bolt and nut work on the XS header? I figure that everyone who upgraded his header gets new bolts and nuts as well.

CL-Future

I'm sure they work but I got new nuts and bolts from Acura since new hardware was being installed anyway...

RooEng

You use the factory nuts to install the headers to the head. Don't forget to use antiseize and use the factory torque 23 ft lb or you'll break or strip the stud.

The OE manifold has 3 studs per side for the A-pipe, no bolts. The XS headers just have a flange with 3 10mm diameter bolt holes and they supply you with 8mm diameter nuts.

The main reason to get new bolts and nuts is to get the RIGHT SIZE. 10mmx30mm or 10mmx40mm not stronger grade 8 heat treated 8mm bolts and nuts that are TOO SMALL. The 10mm bolts will help you line up the flanges and keep the gasket on the sealing surface. That's why some have no leaking with the 8mm bolts, they were able to line up the flanges up properly.

Had my XS headers for 11 months and no leaks, cracks, resonance, or any other problems. Fit was perfect. I did have to clean up some of the holes and the flanges weren't perfectly flat but it was easily fixed.

easymoney

how did you solve the issue with the flanges not being exactly flat? and what is the correct size of bolts that should be replaced 10mm or 8mm?

thanks Eric

UNeeKLiNG

iTrader: (3)

I figured out one of my problems. The XS headers are such a tight fight that I needed to remove the hanger that holds on the XS headers next to the cat. That took care of the vibrations through each gear around 2500 rpm. Do you guys think that will cause any issues? It's not hanging that much lower without the hanger so I'm thinking it'll be ok. The last issue that I still haven't figred out yet is the rattling that happens aroudn 2500 rpm ONLY in 5th and 6th gear. I hear it towards the back behind the driver seat. Sounds like my exhaust but I wouldn't know why it would be. Thoughts?

gaping46and2

iTrader: (2)

I know one of the TL guys had their headers crack because they took off that hanger.

fsttyms1

Yes and Yes

ML03CLS

It is going to put extra stress on the welds and cause a premature failure at some point.. I would put it back or find another place to brace it.

fsttyms1

agree. Just go to a muffler shop and have them relocate the hanger so that it fits properly

01clsstock

so.... what are the results?

CL-Future

The parts haven't arrived yet. Should get em today or tomorrow and I'll put them on then...

UNeeKLiNG

iTrader: (3)

What about just adding a couple of washers so it doesn't pull so high up towards the body?

SPoolinspOON

iTrader: (5)

Installed the headers yesterday. Went very smoothly except the torch had to come out. Everything bolted up pretty good. No whinning sound just a little bit of a turbo spooling up sound at around 2000-3000rpm. I noticed one thing though, there is sound differance when it hits 3000rpms. It's like a deeper exhuast sound. The butt dyno did feels some more power but still waiting for the fullest after break-in. Good $125 spent!

CL-Future

So I wrapped the flex pipe tonight and only the flex pipe as well as installed Mugen mods and the NRG engine dampener. I used adhesive foil tape located here http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/cool_foil_tape.php.
The hissing sound is barely noticeable now , I'd say it's been reduced by about 95% and that's because I only wrapped it once since it was late and I was tired. When getting on the gas now you only get smooth acceleration and can only hear the sound of the exhaust going through the headers and A pipe. I wish I would've done this before I had them installed as I could've done a better job wrapping them, but the adhesive tape is great, flexible & sticky. I'm definitely more pleased with these cheap alternatives to Comptech now that I don't have a snake hissing at me whenever I get on it...
If you have any other questions I'll be happy to answer them but it won't be until later since I'm going to the track in about 5 hours, gotta get some sleep now...

Brian

Kulrevon

thank you so much for doing this.

Do you think the flex pipe is just crappy. Should I have another one installed before installing the headers?

CL-Future

That's my guess since some folks have complained of this same sound. I'll be doing the same thing since during the drive today the tape lost its adhesiveness I have some wrap I could use but I'm not sure if it'll be effective, I'm just glad I was able to identify where the sound was coming from.

03sixer

I got my XS headers a couple weeks ago but they're still in the box. Waiting for some spare time to install them. I read something about insulating tape used on the headers and that it may drastically reduce the life of the headers. I'll see if I can find the link.

LIPPSTUH

iTrader: (2)

so it's coming from the flex pipe? did you clean the downpipe before you put the wrap on? maybe it just stuck to all the dirt and stuff.. try cleaning again.

slow scoob

i have xs power headers on my 97 3.0 fit is shitty, rubs on crossmember, leaks at both joints of the u pipe to headers... overall id say they really arent worth it, now i will have to find some dc sports or comptech...

CL-Future

Nah, the tape itself was super sticky. It started coming apart after the heat heated up the glue/sticky side and the rest is history. I wrapped it again this morning with exhaust wrap cloth then put the tape on top. We'll see how long that lasts but I'll probably end up just replacing the flex pipe with one that doesn't leak. But yes to answer your question, my hissing sound is definitely coming from the flex pipe...

Kulrevon

Its funny you say this because I have not heard of anyone having crossmember interference. as long as you replace the bolts with better and you make sure the the gaskets are good. and apparently the flex pipe needs to be replaced.

So you spend about 75 bucks on top of the 115. and you have a perfect set.

I will do that before I spend the money on the comptech.

Glasuan

One of the header bolts fell off my car. Now i need to find a new one. I used the ones that came with the kit.