DjElucid

When I'm on the highway (freeway <-- for your west cost folks) and brake, my steering wheel shakes. Sometimes a lot, sometimes a little. Question is.... will new brakes pads stop this? and would acura warranty cover the rotors if they are warped?

Thanks!

NJtsx

brake pads might help but most likely your rotors are warped and they can be cut. but under warrenty- i doubt it. How many mile you have?

DjElucid

just a little under 35k. going for my next oil change soon and installing my new tires.

slo007

I got new front pads and rotors machined under warranty due to a vibration when braking from fast speeds. The mileage was 25K.

I noticed my brakes started to make noise recently. I'm taking it in next week for 30K. Hope they fix it at no cost.

Alin10123

The bumper to bumper warranty should cover the rotors if they are warped.
Rotors aren't "supposed" to warp usually. The dealer will probably just machine them down and send them on your way. Although machining is bad because it makes the rotor thinner and they'll warp again even quicker the next time. Plus once a rotor warps, it'll develop hotspots and they'll warp again in the same spots.

Best thing to do when you're out of warranty and the rotors warp, UPGRADE!

gabedabomb

Machining isn't "bad," it's necessary if there are imperfections on the rotor. a FWD car like the TSX (or let's talk about my Accord, for that's what I'm familiar with) needs the fronts machined every time, but not the rears. Now I haven't extensive knowledge, but perhaps the front rotors warp more easily than rears. This is because they are being used more heavily (weight transfer to front of car when braking, more weight up front as far as distribution, perhaps even steering while braking (maybe that has something to do with warping?? no idea). That's why front pads wear out quicker. Now, there are specs within which your rotor thickness should fall. The specs are there so that rotors can be cut several times (I heard that fronts can be machined 3 times, this from the cute service advisor at Honda that used to go to my high school). In either case, a micrometer is the best way to figure out if rotors are thick enough. Right before I had my fronts cut a second time, it had a bit of shaking when braking. If I only had the pads replaced, and not the rotors cut, then the problem will persist. The rear pads were the only ones that needed replacing too.

When I brake, I try to brake early, light, and "pulse" a few times to let the brakes cool. Brakes warp when overheated, so with stock brakes, one shouldn't stomp hard and hold (this will warp it faster). Instead, do it gradually, and IF you have enough space, let the brake go for a sec, brake again, etc. I know with ABS this isn't necessary, but I think it'll help decrease the chance of brake overheating.

Feel free to comment if I'm wrong. This all came from either my own deduction, a class I took, or my dad.

CJ Majesty

I got mine replaced under warranty at my 20000 scheduled check up.... didnt even ask........ rotors & pads take it to acura.

DjElucid

Just got off the phone with the dealer. Warranty doesn't cover the rotors or pads. Resurfacing will cost $170, i could buy new ones at that price. How much would it cost at a local shop to get rotors resurfaced?

Any suggestions on rotors? I'm planning to get axxis pads.

SWRT

Warranty does cover brake judder. Tell your dealer to call tech-line.

-Pete

DjElucid

who's techline? I already ordered axxis brake pads and brembo (plain) rotors.

Alin10123

Machining rotors isn't bad when you change brake pads.
I was stating that it isn't good when the rotors warp. The rotors usually warp because of the heat. A thinner rotor does not handle/ disperse heat as well as a thicker one. Plus when your rotors warp, you develop hotspots in them. The rotors will warp pretty soon if they warped the first time and you machined them.

I experienced this in my 4runner. No matter how often the rotors were machined. They would warp again in a few thousand miles. EVen when the thickness was in spec.

There's a guy named "Gadget" that's really well regarded in almost all of the Toyota truck forums. He's a pretty spirited driver but he always performs his own experiments on everything.

Here's the section on his website where he talks about brakes. Read his brake section about warped rotors.

http://www.gadgetonline.com/susp.htm#Brakes

SWRT

Tech-line is the Honda online technical experts that the dealers call when they don't know what to do. It is also who they are supposed to call to get autorization to make a warranty claim.

Brake judder in most cases has nothing to do with an overheated or warped rotor. Contrary to what most people believe, its not 'easy' to warp your rotors. Heat itself does not cause warping, uneven cooling causes warping.

What most people are experiencing when they feel brake judder is DTV (disk thickness variation). This can be caused by deposits left by the pads, poor rotor machining, or corrosion when the rotor was new. Ever notice how most cars today are shipped with plastic on the wheels? This is to prevent splashing water on the rotor. That small amount of corrosion can case can create DTV when the pads are burnishing to the rotor. A small thickness variation progressively gets worse as your pad vibrates under braking.

The best way to prevent judder is to propperly bed you pads when they're new. When you do get rotors machined, insist they use an on car brake lathe. This will take into account the hub runout.

-SWRT