what should i do?
what should i do?
dang this is hard when u dont have alot of money for a drop, should i just go with the sprotline kit, or should i find some springs that lower the car about an inch and stay with stock shocks?
You could get some springs and a camber kit for now then upgrade the shocks when you've got some more coin. The only problem with that plan is you'll pay double for the installation if you're not doing it yourself.
I have one question about using aftermarket springs and stock shocks. I thought I read somewhere here that using aftermarket springs with the stock shocks will wear out the spring prematurely. Am I correct in thinking this? For example, if the springs have a 1.5" drop, after a certain time, it won't hold that drop and it'll settle even more than that? ie, closer to 2"?
Originally Posted by virtualbong
I have one question about using aftermarket springs and stock shocks. I thought I read somewhere here that using aftermarket springs with the stock shocks will wear out the spring prematurely. Am I correct in thinking this? For example, if the springs have a 1.5" drop, after a certain time, it won't hold that drop and it'll settle even more than that? ie, closer to 2"?
A good quality spring will basically live the life of the car. As we talked about in some of the other threads, certain springs will get lower over time (H&R comes to mind), but others, like Eibach springs will pretty much maintain their ride height regardless of what shocks you use.
Remember that a shock has very little effect on actual ride height and keeping the car at a certain level. This is why when you install 1.5" lowering springs on a car w/ stock shocks, the car will lower 1.5". If the shocks had any effect on maintaining ride height, they would prevent the car from dropping 1.5" when you installed the shorter springs.
A shock is a damper. People think that when you compress a shock piston, it will shoot back up like a spring. The truth is, shocks don't really do this. An OEM shock piston w/ weak rebound damping may come up on its own, but at a slow speed. You can literally put your hand over the top of the shock piston and stop it from moving up further. Therefore, the shock provides negligible force in supporting the car.
On an aftermkt shock w/ stiffer rebound damping, when you compress the shock piston, it takes a great amount of force to pull the shock piston out.
Stiffer/lower springs wear out the stock shocks by wearing out the rebound damping of the stock shock. Since the spring is stiffer, when it is compressed, it stores a greater amt of kinetic energy. When the spring rebounds (decompresses), it does so with a much greater force than the stock spring. Since the stock shock is not designed to withstand the stronger rebound of the lowering spring, the shock will wear out faster. This is what causes a car w/ aftermarket springs + stock shocks to feel floaty and bouncey. Over smaller bumps where there there is not much need for rebound control, the car drives fine. But, when you hit a moderate or larger dip or bump, the car will not take a firm set, but will undulate a few times before settling flat. This is when it is obvious that the shock has either worn out or the shock is underdamped for the spring you are using.
Originally Posted by AlterZgo
A good quality spring will basically live the life of the car. As we talked about in some of the other threads, certain springs will get lower over time (H&R comes to mind), but others, like Eibach springs will pretty much maintain their ride height regardless of what shocks you use.
Remember that a shock has very little effect on actual ride height and keeping the car at a certain level. This is why when you install 1.5" lowering springs on a car w/ stock shocks, the car will lower 1.5". If the shocks had any effect on maintaining ride height, they would prevent the car from dropping 1.5" when you installed the shorter springs.
A shock is a damper. People think that when you compress a shock piston, it will shoot back up like a spring. The truth is, shocks don't really do this. An OEM shock piston w/ weak rebound damping may come up on its own, but at a slow speed. You can literally put your hand over the top of the shock piston and stop it from moving up further. Therefore, the shock provides negligible force in supporting the car.
On an aftermkt shock w/ stiffer rebound damping, when you compress the shock piston, it takes a great amount of force to pull the shock piston out.
Stiffer/lower springs wear out the stock shocks by wearing out the rebound damping of the stock shock. Since the spring is stiffer, when it is compressed, it stores a greater amt of kinetic energy. When the spring rebounds (decompresses), it does so with a much greater force than the stock spring. Since the stock shock is not designed to withstand the stronger rebound of the lowering spring, the shock will wear out faster. This is what causes a car w/ aftermarket springs + stock shocks to feel floaty and bouncey. Over smaller bumps where there there is not much need for rebound control, the car drives fine. But, when you hit a moderate or larger dip or bump, the car will not take a firm set, but will undulate a few times before settling flat. This is when it is obvious that the shock has either worn out or the shock is underdamped for the spring you are using.
Remember that a shock has very little effect on actual ride height and keeping the car at a certain level. This is why when you install 1.5" lowering springs on a car w/ stock shocks, the car will lower 1.5". If the shocks had any effect on maintaining ride height, they would prevent the car from dropping 1.5" when you installed the shorter springs.
A shock is a damper. People think that when you compress a shock piston, it will shoot back up like a spring. The truth is, shocks don't really do this. An OEM shock piston w/ weak rebound damping may come up on its own, but at a slow speed. You can literally put your hand over the top of the shock piston and stop it from moving up further. Therefore, the shock provides negligible force in supporting the car.
On an aftermkt shock w/ stiffer rebound damping, when you compress the shock piston, it takes a great amount of force to pull the shock piston out.
Stiffer/lower springs wear out the stock shocks by wearing out the rebound damping of the stock shock. Since the spring is stiffer, when it is compressed, it stores a greater amt of kinetic energy. When the spring rebounds (decompresses), it does so with a much greater force than the stock spring. Since the stock shock is not designed to withstand the stronger rebound of the lowering spring, the shock will wear out faster. This is what causes a car w/ aftermarket springs + stock shocks to feel floaty and bouncey. Over smaller bumps where there there is not much need for rebound control, the car drives fine. But, when you hit a moderate or larger dip or bump, the car will not take a firm set, but will undulate a few times before settling flat. This is when it is obvious that the shock has either worn out or the shock is underdamped for the spring you are using.
As always, you have been very helpful. I guess I'm back to square one. Should I get a complete suspension kit or should I go with stock shocks and lowering springs. Man, I thought I had this all figured out until Tire Rack had to post on their site that they had the Eibach Pro-System Kit for sale...those asses
Well, stock shocks will be OK for a little while. I don't think the car will be dangerous to drive. It may not have the nice, taut feel of a complete suspension set up, but it will likely have improved turn in, etc. and of course, killer looks.
Since you are doing the install yourself, the cost of installation isn't a huge factor.
Therefore, maybe you should get the Pro-Kit springs now and put them on w/ your stock shocks to see how they feel. If they're OK, then you can wait a few mos for Eibach to release their Pro-Dampers and add those when avaialble.
If the Pro-kits + stock springs just don't do it for you, and you don't want to wait for the Pro-dampers, you can buy the Konis.
If you were not doing your own install, I'd say to bite the bullet now and get springs and shocks. Since you are doing the install yourself, you should experiment w/ the different combos and post your experiences.
Since you are doing the install yourself, the cost of installation isn't a huge factor.Therefore, maybe you should get the Pro-Kit springs now and put them on w/ your stock shocks to see how they feel. If they're OK, then you can wait a few mos for Eibach to release their Pro-Dampers and add those when avaialble.
If the Pro-kits + stock springs just don't do it for you, and you don't want to wait for the Pro-dampers, you can buy the Konis.
If you were not doing your own install, I'd say to bite the bullet now and get springs and shocks. Since you are doing the install yourself, you should experiment w/ the different combos and post your experiences.
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im in the same boat as u virtualbong, i want to get rit of the wheel gapp a have fast but not enough $$$ to do it would it be ok to go ahead and get the sportlines and the camber kit and then in a few months (like june or july) get a set of konis? thanks for the help
Originally Posted by nitehawktsx67
im in the same boat as u virtualbong, i want to get rit of the wheel gapp a have fast but not enough $$$ to do it would it be ok to go ahead and get the sportlines and the camber kit and then in a few months (like june or july) get a set of konis? thanks for the help

