rear sway bar

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Old 02-21-2010, 01:21 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by pakesack
I have been researching RSBs for my car as well. I plan to keep the rest of my suspension stock, so I was also a little wary about the added stress to the endlinks and chassis mounts. General consensus seems to favor the progress over the comptech, but I'm more interested in the Neuspeed (19mm) or H&R (20mm) RSBs. Both are more expensive at around $200, but I like the fact that they are not as stiff as the progress/comptech RSBs. My hope is that with a milder RSB and stock suspension, I wont run into broken endlinks or cracked mounts.

What do you guys think about that argument? Or should I just get the progress and run it on the softest setting?
If the Neuspeed and H&R are in fact less stiff than the Progress and Comptech sway bar, and since I question the merits of the mod anyway (see post above), I have to ask......... why bother?
Old 03-11-2010, 04:13 AM
  #42  
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19x7.5 40+ wheels

guy's i need help i have an 07 tsx black.. i want to add some 19 r1 racing wheels black face with a chrome lip wheels are 19X7.5 with a 40+ offset and centerbore is 73.1 will these fit my car i plan on addin a pro kit drop aswell i like this style of wheels for my car are there any other wheels like this with a better offset?
Old 03-15-2010, 03:11 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by HoRRo
For those installing an aftermarket RSB on stock suspension, there are threads of people reporting that the actual mounting point of the RSB has cracked/torn due to chassis flex. It should be less of an issue with firmer aftermarket suspension.

+1 on the above regarding endlinks. You do not NEED them at all, I'm on original endlinks with over 100,000km on aftermarket suspension on RSB. I'll be getting the Moog if I do need to replace them.
While a siffer suspension MIGHT help, I see another issue. Since your new RSB is sitffer than the previous one, more stress will be driven into the chassis mount points.
Whenever you increase section thickness (which increases your section modulus, which makes the part deflect less) the increase in stiffness means that stress normally seen in the RSB itself now moves to the mounting points, moving the point of failure.

Have you ever seen someone put a very low profile tire on a wheel and bend the wheel instead of popping the tire? This is exactly what is happening. Since the tire is stiffer, more stress has to be taken up in the wheel itself.

I can guarantee you that whenever you put a stiffer suspension component on your car, your chassis is subjected to higher stress levels. Whether or not those higher stress levels actually causes fatigue cracks over time is based on the absolute stress values, which we don't have.

Same thing goes for the polyurethane bushings, they are stiffer than the rubber, which induces higher stress loads in the end links and sway-bar, etc. Maybe it only happens when you install the poly bushing AND the RSB. Like some of you already said, this issue might be overblown, not many people have it, but I think increasing the stiffness is the root cause.

Last edited by Tangoman; 03-15-2010 at 03:15 PM.
Old 03-21-2010, 08:32 PM
  #44  
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i have the CT rsb, it made a huge difference before and after I lowered my car, only problem is, this bar will interfere with an aftermarket exhaust such as the greddy evo2, probably will switch to the progress rsb after I do get an exhaust
Old 03-21-2010, 09:58 PM
  #45  
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Lightbulb

Originally Posted by pakesack
I have been researching RSBs for my car as well. I plan to keep the rest of my suspension stock, so I was also a little wary about the added stress to the endlinks and chassis mounts. General consensus seems to favor the progress over the comptech, but I'm more interested in the Neuspeed (19mm) or H&R (20mm) RSBs. Both are more expensive at around $200, but I like the fact that they are not as stiff as the progress/comptech RSBs. My hope is that with a milder RSB and stock suspension, I wont run into broken endlinks or cracked mounts.
You might also consider a OEM '04 TL (MT) rear swaybar that is 20mm -- see:
https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-tsx-tires-wheels-suspension-130/04-tl-rear-sway-bar-tsx-662752/
Surprisingly, you should be able to get all the parts (online) for just $40.
Old 03-31-2010, 09:29 PM
  #46  
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It seems that if I lower my car on the Tein S techs I am waiting to have installed then it wouldn't matter if I went with CT or Progress because the drop will reduce the stress on the chassis right?
Old 03-31-2010, 10:40 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Ck98vteC
It seems that if I lower my car on the Tein S techs I am waiting to have installed then it wouldn't matter if I went with CT or Progress because the drop will reduce the stress on the chassis right?
Since the Tein S techs are stiffer than the stock suspension, I would think that it would lower the chassis stress in the sway-bar mounts.
Old 04-07-2010, 08:05 PM
  #48  
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how do you torque the endlink to specs if you can't get a torque wrench in since you need to use the hex key to hold it in. installed the progress bar. ran into a few problems...


Note: Tires have to be on the ground to properly install the sway bar. Didn't know that and i had the rear jacked up with tires removed. Had to put everything back on than shove it on ramps.

Also. How did everyone put their RSB in? Only way i could do it was taking off the tire and sliding it in sideways.
Old 04-08-2010, 06:29 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Tsx6363
how do you torque the endlink to specs if you can't get a torque wrench in since you need to use the hex key to hold it in. installed the progress bar. ran into a few problems...


Note: Tires have to be on the ground to properly install the sway bar. Didn't know that and i had the rear jacked up with tires removed. Had to put everything back on than shove it on ramps.

Also. How did everyone put their RSB in? Only way i could do it was taking off the tire and sliding it in sideways.
Can't answer the question on the end links since I replaced mine with aftermarket ones that allowed me to use a wrench. Plus....., though I'm sure they'll be those that disagree..... I don't think torquing them is that critical. Just tighten them them up the best you can and you should be OK (if they make noise.... they're not tight enough). I don't understand your comment about the tires having to be on the ground. If I remember correctly (it was a few years ago), I had both rear wheels off (both to make the end link change easier), dropped the exhaust system, and was able to slide out the old one, then slide in the new one. There may be another way, but I just found it much easier to work under and around there with the wheels off.
Old 04-08-2010, 08:24 AM
  #50  
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if the end links are not tight enough you will hear the bolts shifting. (popping )
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