jeneah

I just bought a Neuspeed FSB and I had questions on the install.

Are there any special things I need to do to install this or is it pretty straight forward like the RSB?

Most importantly, what are the endlinks supposed to be torqued to upon installation? I know the rears were 29 ft/lbs and I was wondering if this was similar.

Thanks,

Jeff

FoBuLouS

FSB install is PITA and no it's not as straightforward as the RSB. You have to pull out the subframes and it can take one or two hours just for that..

jeneah

Sorry, not down with the acronyms....what is PITA?

etarui

iTrader: (2)

Pain In The A$$

Audioserf

Yeah. If you've ever been underneath the front of your car, you'll notice the front swaybar is a) already pretty thick and b) tucked under the car's subframe. Changing it out is way, way more trouble than it will ever be worth. I wouldn't recommend bothering. Spend the money elsewhere.

jeneah

Well I already bought the sway bar and I want to do the work so...


Considering that, I was hoping someone could just answer my question about torque specs for the front bolt connection with the sway bar.

Thanks,
Jeff

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

Give a man a fish and feed him for one day. Teach an man to fish and........


http://www.helminc.com/helm/welcome_...0H4PRJF1W94LT3

Buy an oem service manual. All of your questions will be answered.

jeneah

Thank you sir.

Simba91102

I'm going to guess the reason that you haven't got an answer is that no one really knows. Since the end links are the same as the rear ones, I'd go with the same torque spec.

jeneah

I was thinking about doing that...so I guess that's what it will have to be. I've been told by a mechanic friend that the only way to get this spec is go to Acura...but I have my doubts on whether they would give it to me.

Thanks for the help.

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

It is not a critical part. Just do the same as the rears (and if you really busted out a torque wrench on those I am impressed with your attention to detail. It is admirable, but really, actually, is unnecessary). Get the service manual and it will tell you the torque that the bolt holding your radio bracket in place should be set at.

Marcus

matvey

It will take you maybe 3-5 hours to do the install. Unscrew the rear of the subframe, loosen the front bolts. Lower the rear part of the subframe. remove the bushings. remove the sway. Assemble in reverse order. Good luck and give yourself enough time in case something goes wrong (and it will).

MBA

jeneah

In response to Mr. Heeltoe:

I really did bust out a torque wrench on the rears because when I tried to tighten them to what I thought would be 29 ft/lbs, it resulted in the car going back up on jack stands after the test drive.

I called the Acura dealer in Lancaster, PA--->Jones Acura...real helpful there. They faxed me all the torque specs on the subframe and in case anyone was wondering..

The torque specs on the front endlinks are 33ft/lbs.

I'm sure something will go wrong with this install so I will be starting early in the morning on Sunday (it's supposed to be a nice day). I will let you all know how it goes.

matvey

How long did the install take you?

MBA

ILoveMyHonda

I'm wondering the same, any problems? Updates?

jeneah

Holy sh!t was that a terrible install! It took me about 6 hours and was a HUGE pita just like everyone said. Finding a good jackstand position is tough when jacking from the jackpoint. You do have to lower the subframe but that is only 3 bolts on each side. Once that is done you you can loosen the endlinks and then unbolt the bushing clamps. Here is were you absolutely need to have a 14mm 3/8 drive universal socket and 3" adapter...I don't know how you would get the rear bolt off otherwise. After that, have fun because it's a huge pain getting the stock bar out. You have to pry down the subframe and then jimmy it over the exhaust. I found that taking the driverside part of the bar toward the rear helps the passenger side of the bar come out over the exhaust better. I put the new bar in the same way but it was even more of a struggle...even though it's only 5mm bigger. Then put everything back. The bolt on the middle subframe was extremely hard to get in properly. I think it was because the driveway I did it in was on a slight slant and when I tried to put these bolts back in, the car had moved away from the subframe a little. I stripped the hell out of the bolt and had to grind it down a little and oil it up to get it in. I think it might have some sort of factory loctite-like substance on it because it was even hard to get out. I haven't had time to take it for a good ride yet..just back and forth from work so I don't have any worthwhile feedback on how well it works yet. I'll post that in a day or so.

If anyone has questions, let me know!

Jeff