Osmodious

Hey...I've reached the point of utter disgust with the stock Michelin tires and am planning to upgrade, so I figured I'd upgrade my wheels as well and use the stockers for some good Blizzak's next winter.

Anyway, I'm probably going to stick with 17", as 18's just don't last long on NJ roads, but I want to push out to an 8" width. I'm not really into bling, more into performance, so I'm looking for the lightest wheels available at a reasonable price (yeah, money is tight). Appearance is important, too, of course...so I don't want anything hideous (but beauty is completely subjective, so go ahead and suggest something even if you don't particularly like it).

Any help would be much appreciated!
Oh, and any recommendations for correct offset for a 17x8 wheel? In my search, I noticed that there is quite a bit of disagreement about the correct offset...

Thanks!

PJS

Offset between +45 and 50 would be ideally suited, but as low as 40 would work fine too.
There's a site that has done quite a bit of work in gathering the weights of different manufacturer's wheels - I'll need to dig it out.
Here it is - http://www.wheelweights.net

HaPPy jU1cE

regamaster evos are tight....and extremely light.

Audioserf

Kosei K1-TS are like 15lbs for a 17". Not sure if they are 17x8 but worth a look at Tirerack.

WedsSport TC005's are on TireRack closeout pricing right now. 17x7.5 +48 offset if I remember right, and 15lbs each.

Also, Enkei RPF1's.

PACman

Enkei Rpf1 - A bit over 15lbs. in 17" size. Low $200's online.

Used by RealTime racing.

PJS

And as ugly as sin.
Since when did racing team's wheels ever look anything other than fit for purpose?

llJrockll

iTrader: (2)

Grham Lights?

inkedup

5zigen FNO1RC 17x8 +43 - http://edgeracing.com/wheel/205/

Enkei Rp03 17x8 +48 - http://edgeracing.com/wheel/1945/

Enkei RPM2 17x8 +45 - http://edgeracing.com/wheel/1898/

O.Z. Ultraleggera 17x8 +45 - http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/Wheel...&autoModel=TSX

SSR Type C RS 17x8 +48 - http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/Wheel...6&autoModClar=

TodaSi

Check out weights here
http://www.wheelweights.net/

n1ke5h

gram lights...look around on other forums and you'll find a certain vendor who has a special for a set of 4 wheels at $999 shipped for 18x7.5 Gram Light 57F with 45mm offset in either silver or bronze, and if you pay whatever it is extra, he gets them powder coated to different colors, including time attack look (these wheels dont really come in time attack, but he gets them done like that)! and theyre forged so you wouldnt have to worry too much about getting them bent up

2k4CL9

Volk TE37

CrazyCool[O]

iTrader: (1)

Why don't you just tell us which forum? Don't mind if you don't remember

Osmodious

I had (still have, in storage) a set of SSR Competitions for my A4...they were the PERFECT wheel (perhaps I should have mentioned them as a target in my original post, hmmm?). They are super light, very strong and drop-dead gorgeous. Unfortunately, they also cost a small fortune. The offset is too different, otherwise I'd see about redrilling the ones I have (which are 17x8.5).

Thanks, everyone, for your suggestions...keep 'em coming, too! Out there is the perfect wheel for my silver baby (and my anal-retentive demands), I just know it...

Os.

inkedup

Those are actually 8.5 inches wide, otherwise I would of jumped on them a loooong time ago.

afici0nad0

wow...

OZ Forgiata @ 17x7.5 = 13.2lbs


http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/Wheel...+w%2FClearcoat

Osmodious

Actually, I found my docs on the SSR's that I have...they are 17x8.5, 35 offset. Anyone know how those will fit on the TSX?

xizor

they will not

SeanS627

they'll mount, but they'll stick out like rims with mud tires on a bubba truck

minkl81

iTrader: (2)

i didn't know tirerack started carrying volks. they have some new lines of wheels such as Enkei racing series and Volks.

Volk RE30
18x7.5
15.5lbs

minkl81

iTrader: (2)

Kosei K1-TS
17x7 = 13.7lbs ($199)
17x8 = 15.4lbs ($239)




Motegi Tracklite 2.0
17x8 = 14.6lbs ($288)

v6cord2k5

iTrader: (1)

CENTERLINE WHEELS period. Forged/affordable and extremely light. Ive thought long and hard about getting some and throwing on some michelins that I got for cheap on here... only thing is they come in 17x7.5 and 18x7.5 only (well 19's too) and the offset is 42 which is perfect. If they came in 8" width I woulda been all over them like flies on shit.

v6cord2k5

iTrader: (1)

***correction: they only come in 7" width unless its 19" then its 19x7.5***

wheelweights.com lists the an RPM model to have 18x8.5 dimensions so Im about to call up Centerline to see whats up with that.

Osmodious

So then what would be the correct offset for a 17x8.5 wheel? I would think that the offset would have to be reduced with a larger width wheel, so it would have to be less than the 40-42mm everyone mentions for 8" wheels...of course, I don't want the wheels to stick out, but I DO want them flush with the wheel wells (rather than tucked under like the stock wheels are). I mean, I could always get the wheel hub shaved a bit (wheel repair place will do it), since these have an essentially flat hub.

v6cord2k5

iTrader: (1)

stock wheels are 7" wide ET55 in order to get the lip of the wheel flush to the fender you need to increase the placement of the lip about 30mm further from the stock position... with tires they might stick out depending on how wide the tire is. There are many variables you have to factor in (car height/wheel dimensions/tire size/camber):

a 7.5 wide wheel needs ET31
a 8" wide wheel needs ET38
a 8.5" wide wheel needs ET44
a 9" wide wheel needs ET50

again with those numbers the actual wheel mag will be at the fender... if you'll be running wide tires for protection you'll need to tuck the rim in a little so just increase the offset about 5mm to accomodate the wider tire... so you will not rub because I highly doubt you'll run aggressive wheels at 4x4 ride height.

use this tool... http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

xizor

first off you need to calculate the wheel width as well as tire size. in practice the tire size and offset are really all you need to worry about unless you're getting super wide wheels like cccolt. a 7.5" +31 w/ 225 tire would stick way out

my 18x7.5 +42 225/40/18 were very flush in my opinion. to fit a 17x8.5 w/ 235/40/18 you'd probably want a 45+ offset

v6cord2k5

iTrader: (1)

thats why I said... "the dimensions I stated are for the wheel mag only... for a more realistic offset add 5mm or so to accomodate the tire" and theoretically:
a 7.5" ET36 wheel with 225 tire
will sit at the same spot as...
a 8.5 ET49 wheel with 235 tire.
(under equal wheel heights)

add 5mm to the offsets I gave and you should have the maximum offset you should go with while running on the factory suggested camber settings.

Osmodious

Hmmm...I understand what everyone is saying on here, and it all makes sense. However, when I look at other sources, they indicate that a LOWER offset will bring the wheel further in and a higher offset will push it out further...for example, here's TireRack's description of offset:
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/...jsp?techid=101

Going by that, a 35mm positive offset will be tucked under more than a 45mm offset, right? According to the offset calculator, though, the wheel will be pushed out by about 29mm (which means it will stick out about 1/4" past the wheel well).
(http://marksink.com/tire_wheel_offset/offset.html)

<sigh>

I guess the thing to do here is to put one of the wheels on the car (which will be interesting since the bolt circle is wrong) and just eyeball it. I can always have the wheel repair place shave 10-15mm off the back of the wheel hub and then, if it is too much, get a wheel spacer.

Or I could sell the wheels and buy new ones, which is what a normal person would do...but I love these wheels and they don't make them for the TSX.

xizor

offset is difficult to explain, but the simple truth is high number means farther in

Tirerack says Positive Offset means: "The hub mounting surface is toward the front or wheel side of the wheel. Positive offset wheels are generally found on front wheel drive cars and newer rear drive cars."

So the greater the offset, the closer the hub is to the face of the wheel. That in turn means the higher the offset, more of the wheel is inside the wheel well, past the hub.

v6cord2k5

iTrader: (1)

it depends what you consider "adding offset" if you increase the number (same width) the wheel will get tucked in further. but some people refer "adding offset" as just the physical location of the wheel not the actual number. It all depends how you analize the problem at hand. Just use the the tool on the second link (which is the same tool that I posted for you earlier) and you will see exactly what Im saying. (hopefully) haha.

And I wouldnt recommend shaving the hub's of the wheels nor drilling new bolt patterns. Look around and find a wheel with the right specs for your car. It takes time and patience but it will pay off... Ive been on the market for wheels for at least a year now and havent bought any because the right set hasnt came along just yet...