front camber kit.. ingalls or SPC

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Old 08-30-2005, 04:03 PM
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front camber kit.. ingalls or SPC

anyone have any experiance with either camber kits? ingalls or SPC?

which one would ppl suggest.. or are they essentially the same thing.

im riding on eibachs and konis and on the highest setting for the front. what about installation.. any special tools needed? particularly for the removal of the ball joint.
Old 08-30-2005, 04:05 PM
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with the eibach and koni you don't need a front camber kit...
Old 08-30-2005, 04:09 PM
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last time i got the car aligned the mechanic told me the front left wheel (passenger side) was off by a lil.. so i didnt bother with the front camber kit. but over the weekend i was changing the oil and noticed that the inner tread on that tire was totally worn ouT! so..

yeA, i thought i didnt need it too.
Old 08-30-2005, 05:05 PM
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What's a little? Did they give you a spec sheet?

My car is down around 2" in the front and my camber is -.8 on both sides. It would take a LOT more than that to wear the inner tread.......

I'd think it was the toe that caused that- that IS adjustable from the factory and should be 0.00.......
Old 08-30-2005, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by gCHOW
anyone have any experiance with either camber kits? ingalls or SPC?

which one would ppl suggest.. or are they essentially the same thing.

im riding on eibachs and konis and on the highest setting for the front. what about installation.. any special tools needed? particularly for the removal of the ball joint.
Which Koni do you have? Neuspeed spec? I have used the SPC front camber kit when I had the Konis but I would not recommend using it after vwong pointed out a potential problem with the upper mounting nut. The "big" mounting can potential come in contact with the bottom of the shock tower. If you bottom out, there is the possibility of punching a hole through the shock tower. It has left a mark on my shock tower. A better front camber it would be the type that vwong recently purchased, except that vwong's only increases negative camber.

If you decided to go with the SPC or Ingalls kit, you will need a ball joint tool to remove and install the ball joints.

I got the same Tein Flex as Lanny and my front cambers are -0.5 L & -0.6 R. Then again, the Tein are very short and the upper control arms have plenty of clearance for upward movement. My Koni and Eibach combo had very little clearance.





SPC camber kit:



vwong's nice Spoon camber kit:

Old 08-30-2005, 06:16 PM
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After all the issues SPC has had with their rear boot going on Accords and such, I would trust Ingalls. That is the kit I would buy sans vwongs sweet setup.
Old 08-30-2005, 06:17 PM
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BTW, clean setup JTso!!
Old 08-30-2005, 07:25 PM
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I've performed over 2500 alignments and even though the spoon looks like the better design, the SPC will be a lot easier to adjust - though possibly not as easy to tweak to your hearts content.

To the guys who are lowered, are you experiencing a lot of bump steer? I believe its SPC that makes great outer tie rod ends to correct this, if you are having problems.
Old 08-30-2005, 08:41 PM
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i got koni yellows and eibach pro-kits...

did you get new control arms for your susp??
Old 08-30-2005, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Tireguy
I've performed over 2500 alignments and even though the spoon looks like the better design, the SPC will be a lot easier to adjust - though possibly not as easy to tweak to your hearts content.

To the guys who are lowered, are you experiencing a lot of bump steer? I believe its SPC that makes great outer tie rod ends to correct this, if you are having problems.

For the uneducated... bump steer = ????
Old 08-30-2005, 10:35 PM
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Bump steer = on certain types of front suspension, when you lower the car you end up with a situation where hitting a bump causes the wheels to deflect; it's usually caused on suspensions where the tie rods are connected to the strut.

The front suspension on the RSX and Civic Si is like this. When you lower the car, it totally messes with angle of the tie rods. Aftermarket struts and coilovers have to take that into account for proper placement of the arm....here's a pic of what that front suspension looks like:



The TSX is not like this, and mine, lowered 2" in the front, behaves exactly like a factory ride......
Old 08-31-2005, 06:24 AM
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Even from the factory the TSX has more bump steer then I like in a car.

Bump steer occurs when the suspension travel angles are not the same for the tie rod's. In other words if you created 3 points(or more) one at the bottom of the tire, one at the center of the tire/wheel and one at the top of the tire and hit a large bump and connected those three points(with the suspension compressed) you will have an arc of some sort, if you create the same three points from where the bottom of the tire to the outer tie rod end then to the top of the tire and hit the same size bump and connect the dots you will also have an arc, if those arc's are not the same you have bump steer.
Old 08-31-2005, 06:26 AM
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I nearly forgot..... the easiest way to detect bump steer is to be going moderately fast on an on/off ramp that has large seams in it, when you hit this bumps/indents at high speed with the wheel turned and the car jerks a bit in one direction or another, that is bump steer. You really want to keep that to a minimum because it can be VERY dangerous. Some company(I think its SPC) makes tie rod ends that are adjustable so you can get the angles right.
Old 08-31-2005, 04:12 PM
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^^ Thanks guys. Learned something new today.
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