Steering wheel shakes
Originally Posted by CGTSX2004
That would be rotor warp. Does it happen at slow speeds as well?
Hmm...not very noticeable at slow speed..maybe a slightly shakes.....but when I brake at high speed...the steering wheels shakes pretty bad.....
If the rotor is warp will the warranty cover or both front rotor need to be replace? In case the rotor need to be replace, should I forget about going back to stock rotor and go for the aftermarket ones.
Were you easy on the breaks at the first 200ml? Have you ever slam on the break recently, or quite a few lately?
If so, it's a user's error and that might be out of your pocket spend, depend on how good your relationship with the dealer is.
For the after market rotors, you still can damage them, they just a bit less porne to wrap than the OEM ones since they're either sloted, drilled, or both. I would go for the after market since they're just a few bucks away from OEMs. If you do get the slot type rotors, make sure you get the one that the slots doesen't go all the way to the outer edge of the rotor, other wise yours would wrap again even easier!
I would go to the dealer and find out asap before I damage my tires too and see what they have to say. Good luck.
If so, it's a user's error and that might be out of your pocket spend, depend on how good your relationship with the dealer is.
For the after market rotors, you still can damage them, they just a bit less porne to wrap than the OEM ones since they're either sloted, drilled, or both. I would go for the after market since they're just a few bucks away from OEMs. If you do get the slot type rotors, make sure you get the one that the slots doesen't go all the way to the outer edge of the rotor, other wise yours would wrap again even easier!
I would go to the dealer and find out asap before I damage my tires too and see what they have to say. Good luck.
Originally Posted by hata_teru
Hmm...not very noticeable at slow speed..maybe a slightly shakes.....but when I brake at high speed...the steering wheels shakes pretty bad.....
If the rotor is warp will the warranty cover or both front rotor need to be replace? In case the rotor need to be replace, should I forget about going back to stock rotor and go for the aftermarket ones.
If the rotor is warp will the warranty cover or both front rotor need to be replace? In case the rotor need to be replace, should I forget about going back to stock rotor and go for the aftermarket ones.
There could be a couple of causes:
1. Incorrect torque on the lugnuts. This causes the rotor to slightly bend when pressure is put against them by the pad. Many heatings and coolings later, and you've just reformed your rotors! Wheels been rotated, changed, etc lately?
2. Hard brakes followed by constant braking. (Think, fast stop at a stoplight). You're superheating the rotors then blanketing that area with the pads (holding down the brake), making them cool at a different speed than the rest of the rotor. Hello, Mr. Warp.
3. The rotors are junk, in which case, Acura should have a TSB out about them. Since I don't see many other complaints on this one, I would guess it's either 1 or 2.
----------
1. Always either torque your nuts yourself,
or make sure whoever does, does it to spec.
2. If you have to brake hard to make a light, put it in neutral and get off the brakes. You'll still warp some from the uneven cooling, but at least it will be minimal.
1. Incorrect torque on the lugnuts. This causes the rotor to slightly bend when pressure is put against them by the pad. Many heatings and coolings later, and you've just reformed your rotors! Wheels been rotated, changed, etc lately?
2. Hard brakes followed by constant braking. (Think, fast stop at a stoplight). You're superheating the rotors then blanketing that area with the pads (holding down the brake), making them cool at a different speed than the rest of the rotor. Hello, Mr. Warp.
3. The rotors are junk, in which case, Acura should have a TSB out about them. Since I don't see many other complaints on this one, I would guess it's either 1 or 2.
----------
1. Always either torque your nuts yourself,
or make sure whoever does, does it to spec.2. If you have to brake hard to make a light, put it in neutral and get off the brakes. You'll still warp some from the uneven cooling, but at least it will be minimal.
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Please advised.
