importgrl727

my vibration is still in 2nd and 3rd at high RPMs. I did drive to Indianapolis the other day and found that is also does it at higher speeds, and only when the RPMs are high and I am accelerating

VanGuy

I would like to confirm that this EXACT problem occurs with the 2007 TL also.

FYI - I replaced the passenger side/right side CV shaft or drive axle. I did not change the intermediate shaft or its bearing. The repair has resolved the issue with drive line vibrations only while under load, slight throttle application while moving or going up hill. For anyone else experiencing the 1500 rpm vibration, you need to replace just the cv shaft & not the intermediate shaft. The car now accelerates as smooth as silk! No exaggeration on the smoothness.

Note: The mechanic (with a bad attitude) refused to replace the set ring, cir-clip or the rubber seal. I hope this doesn't come back to haunt me. Anyone in the Vancouver BC area want to buy these items... lol?

Thanks to Curls & Moda_way for their input. Your posts helped me to avoid mistakenly purchasing the intermediate shaft.

kdel19

I just picked up my 2010 Acura TL for the 2nd time from dealer yesterday for the same vibration only when accelerating. Ive only had my car about a month, and I really dont recall noticing it during test driving. But it was within the first couple of weeks after getting it home, I did start to notice the vibration.
I told them it reminds me of driving a standard and you are trying to start off in 2nd gear, so it vibrates til it gets up to the speed needed for that gear. They told me it was in "gas saving mode" (??WHAT??) And if I drove with it in "S" instead of "D"....it would not do that, but it would use more gas. Im completely confused by this, and why that would be normal, and who would want a car that vibrated like that upon acceleration? He told me that he called around and spoke to different people (not sure who) and that is what they told him. I did drive it in the "S" gear and used my Shifter Paddles and it did not do that. So, I dont know. But I do not want to have to drive it like that.

DuckDodgers

BTW Van...my passenger side axle was replaced...the vibration remained, but muted a bit, and then disappeared after the intermediate shaft was replaced.

I have NEVER stated the intermediate shaft is the culprit here, just that people need to be aware that more than the 2 axles can cause the vibration.

sweetbabyjane

Hoping you guys can help me out with this one... It seems as though I'm not alone in this. I have a 2005 TSX, M/T, with navi and had a pretty severe shaking in y front end with acceleration. A friend looked at it and suspected a carrier barring so I brought it into the dealer. They claimed my e-brake cable was Jacked up and stuck dragging on the rear brakes to the point that my rotor was slightly warped. They replaced it, claiming that was the cause of my shaking. I may be a girl, but I'm not an idiot. I knew it wasn't the cause but didn't want to argue. I picked it up and of course it was still shaking.

Brought it back the following week where they discovered it was in fact the intermediate axle carrier barriing. They replaced one one side, only to discover the other had gone bad as well. All was covered under my 100k power train which was awesome. I picked it up and it wasnt long before i noticed a slight vibration still in the front end. Drove it for a few weeks and started hearing a clicking noise. I Brought her back into the shop this morning and they called to tell me the CV boot was torn. Now here are my questions (bear with me, I'm still learning)

Since there's clicking, is it safe to assume its the CV joint going bad?

If the CV joints gone bad, could this be covered under warranty?

What's the likelihood that either the boot was ripped or the CV joint went bad as a result of the intermediate axle carrier barring?

I can't believe the number of TSX'ers with this same issue! I had my Honda for over 200k with no issues at all. Love the TSX, but not impressed with the axles!
Jen

sweetbabyjane

I just realized that I misspelled bearing. Retract idiot statement, replace with illiterate!!
Jen

DuckDodgers

The axle is certainly part of the power train, and with a torn boot and clicking, it's bad. It should be covered. If the first repair (e-brake) wasn't covered, demand a refund since the fix didn't fix the issue.

sweetbabyjane

Thanks for the info. I tried to get a refund on the ebrake, but the dealership is sticking to their guns saying it was stuck on and had to be replaced. It irritates the hell out of me, but as long as it gets fixed, I can eat it.

I picked it up a few days ago and they replaced the CV boot, the left front axle, and road force balanced all my wheels. The guy is trying to blame my economy tires (I put Coopers on her) as the problem. I picked it up and was hoping for the best. She's still got the vibration... Albeit slight. I'm going to take her ht for a long ride today to make sure before I bring her back in. I'm up against time since my warranty ends Ina few thousand miles or August, whichever comes first!

Thanks for the info!!
Jen

TexasHonda

Your description matches closely the symptoms I had on 94 Accord Ex. I had to replace both axles to cure the vibration. I used Raxles to replace shoddy AZ axles.

good luck

akash4u

iTrader: (3)

Where is this intermediate shaft now? Anypne has a picture they could show me or describe the part location? I have a 60mph to 70+mph vibration. Car is going in on Monday for a motor-mount inspection and I would like to ask about the intermediate shaft.

DuckDodgers

Intermediate shaft runs from the transaxle, under the motor, to the right (passenger) axle...through a carrier bearing that likes to sling grease and fail. Best bet is an axle failed...second choice is the intermediate shaft going bad...third is the intermediate shaft going bad and it wreaks the right axle...

Jane, I'd say the left axle is the likely vibration. The tire "explaination" is horseshit. A tire would have to cause serious vibration (which you'd notice) to impact the axle. It would also be impossible to balance...giving the stealership the chance to sell you new tires. They didn't try to sell you new tires, they are lying.

jpgray88

yeah i think i'm having a similar issue, while driving between say 58-64 mph, my steering wheel shakes noticeably. only while accelerating though, when i coast or brake, there is no shaking. sound similar? and seeing all the different posts about it, i have to agree with you. acura should fix this, hopefully the new ones dont have this issue...

DuckDodgers

JP, that's the classic axle warning. Remember '06+ has an extended powertrain warranty that covers those axles and shafts longer (70k and 5, I think).

spfc14

First, sorry, I can not speak English right.

I saw this topic that you have a problem like mine. But my car is different. I am exactly five months trying to solve the problem, since I spent 5k dollar and solved nothing. My car is a BMW 335i. I'm getting really desperate.

I've only had U-Joint, Rubber Suspension Parts, Transmission, much ...

First car blew support the driveshaft. Solved! And after a few hours began to vibrate the CENTER of the car when I accelerated. is low RPM and low gear (1st and 2nd and 3rd (very rare 3rd) gear)

I really DO NOT KNOW WHAT TO DO MORE! I live in Brazil, has spent A FORTUNE, I am in despair.

My car has Unichip reprogramming. And my mechanic says now that this reprogramming can be

PLEAAAASE HELP MEEEEE

V-dub-R

Did you try to rotate the tires? Maybe you have a flat spot on one of the tire? If you did hard breaking and you left skidmarks and your tires are made with soft rubber compound, you could have a flat spot causing vibration. This happened to my car, I switched the tires and problem went away. Also, do you have wheel spacers? If you do, make sure they are hubcentric and your wheels sit properly on the hub. Some old tires will lose their balance causing your car to shake. Try to install different wheels and see if there's any difference. Good luck.

harlantsx

I have a 2006 Tsx with the 55-65 accelerating vibration for about a year now. Dealer thought it was my tires and a chipped rim. Got new tires today at the dealer with alignment for a good price. Mechanic noticed the vibration too after test driving the car post tire replacement. Bringing the car in on Monday with free loaner while they troubleshoot it. I'll mention the axle.

tsxykid105

its the inner cv joints. people replace axles with after market one that wont fix it either some people say it does but it comes back after a few months. it has to be honda axles. if you go to heeltoeauto and get the inner cv joints for both side the virbation will go away they even have a article w/ pics of why it happens. i just bought both sides from marcus a few months ago put them in took about 2 hrs and drove the car and the vibration was gone. 8k miles later still gone. im very happy!!! i was questioning it at first..like could this little thing do this..but it did and its gone now. the inter shaft doesnt go bad but some do and most of the time its due to the axle being removed wrong or the c clip not seating correct.

harlantsx

Yes TSXYkid..it is the inner CV joints: 1400 for parts, they are reducing labor - total with tax is 1700. They claim that the inner cv with the axles are cheaper than just the inner cv joints. They will replace the outer cv joints as well. Need to look around if anyplace can get the parts cheaper with labor.

Franking09

Please help my car was having vibration when hitting 60+mph only when accelerating . Brought it to the shop and they told me I needed both axles . Now I got the car back the issue is gone at that speed runs smooth . But now it shakes when first takes of between 20 to 40 mph if I keep the accelerator at same level . It vibrates and jerks . What could it be now . Could it still be the axles since they are cheap $120 from advanced auto and they are not fitting right?

haniforama

They probably either didn't seat the axle properly into the transmission (you can get underneath and use something soft to tap it in, or they missed putting on the little circlip on the end of the shaft and it's floating in and out of the transmission (they will need to take it out of the trans to put on a clip. The third option is that they sold you bad axles.