From a DIY by JTso: Double Wrench Method:
(Basically the second wrench pushes on the open jaws of the first wrench, or vise-versa, creating a lot more leverage. This only works when the joint between the two wrenches has one open-ended end, and one 12-pt (closed-ended) end.)

 

Thanks for the pic and I guess I didn't present my reservations clearly. I'm familiar with the whole two wrench method, I'm just a little surprised it works that well for the stated purpose. There's a limited amount of room, there's quite a bit of pressure on the tensioner, and as I mentioned, I found myself manipulating the tensioner more than I thought I would. That was my experience, and I'm not saying the two wrench method doesn't work, it's just that it would be a last resort for me and I wouldn't recommend it. I learned long ago that one of the most helpful ways to do a job the right way is to have the right tools. As I stated earlier, for $22..... get the tool. All my opinion of course.

 

Hey
Need a water pump too @ 93k How much does this cost? Thought was serp belt, but that is fine.

 

What's wrong with the pump? Thought these pumps last way longer then 93K.

This is for a 2004 -
19200-RFE-003 WATER PUMP $97.54

 

Hey PacMan, did you find out what caused the noise that you were talking about? Was it the water pump bearing? My car is having a similar noise in the engine bay area. The noise is worse if the car is in gear. I have a friend stepping on the brake while I check for the noise. I can see that the auto-tensioner is vibrating slightly and the noise is definitely from the vibration. However, I am not sure if it is caused by the failure of the auto-tensioner like you originally have thought, or by a water pump bearing like the other user said. Can other guys share some thoughts as well? Thank you guys!