trowakage

Hey guys:

So I found that my front drivers brake caliper was seized and needed to be replaced, so I got a rebuilt caliper, new set of front pads, and a drivers side brake hose cause the last one looked a little worn.

Got the whole job done by my trusty mechanic, worked fine for a little bit, then the brake pedal started getting less and less travel, and the car pulled to the left on braking. Jack the car up and the driver's side wheel is much tighter than the passenger side one, and had 10-15 degrees more heat. Bleed the whole thing at the wheel and the VSA/ABS pump, would be fine for a week or so, then it comes back.

I got a used ABS pump from a reputable seller on eBay, put that in, same thing. So far I've replaced the caliper, brake hose, pads, ABS pump. I wasn't think the rotor could have anything to do with it, but any suggestions?

Rocket_man

Did you check the slider pins that the caliper slides on? You need to roll the little rubber boot back and pull the pins out. Re-grease them. There was a TSB about these pins but I can't recall the exact details. You should search. Basically one pin has a round profile, one pin has a groove on one side. At the factory they had these pins reversed. Honestly I'm not sure what problems this may cause but if the caliper does not slide smoothly on these pins then it may ride the rotor and creat more heat on that side of your car and eventually that will do bad things. So check out these pins.

trowakage

Thanks, already did that a while ago. Still happening though.

Rocket_man

Page 19-4 of the service manual has a troubleshooting guide. Do you have the service manual? I'm guessing the master brake cylinder needs to be replace.

Here are the basic steps:

1) drive the car until the brakes drag (sounds like yours always drag)

2) with the engine running, raise the car on a lift and spin all four wheels by hand (you probably can't do this easily)

Is there brake drag at any wheel?

YES go to step 3
NO look for causes of pad wear, high pedal, or vehicle vibration (duh)

3) turn engine off, pump brakes to deplete the vacuum of the brake booster, then spin the wheels again

Is there drag at any wheel?

YES go to step 4
NO replace brake booster

4) without removing brake lines, unbolt and separate the master cylinder from the booster, then spin the wheels again

is there drag at any wheel?

YES go to step 5
NO check the brake pedal position switch adjustment and pedal free play

5) loosen the hydraulic lines at the master cylinder, then spin the wheels

is there drag at any wheel?

YES go to step 6
NO replace master cylinder

6) loosen bleeder screws at each caliper, then spin the wheel

is there drag at any of the wheels?

YES - disassemble and repair the caliper of the wheel with drag
NO - look for bulging mater cylinder cap seal, discolored or contaminated brake fluid, damaged brake lines,... if all these items are okay, replace the VSA control unit.