Expansion Valve

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Old Apr 23, 2012 | 09:16 PM
  #1  
liono's Avatar
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From: brooklyn, ny
Expansion Valve

Have anyone ever done a DIY expansion valve job? I've done it for my WRX before and it was pretty simple, but I'm not so sure about the TSX. My fiance's TSX needs a new expansion valve with the whooop sound. The position where the pressure lines go are pretty high where it looks like it's behind the cabin filter part. Is there any way to remove that cabin filter bracket?
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Old Apr 24, 2012 | 09:10 AM
  #2  
invalidalias's Avatar
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From: Houston TX
its kinda a pain.
first gotta evac lines
remove glove box
remove ac blower box assembly.
Then there is a cover with tons of phillips screws holding the evaporator in place. gotta remove that,
Then disconnect the ac line next to bulk head. one bolt holds that
there are a couple brackets holding the ac lines to the chasis of the car that need to be disconnected.
pull firmly on the ac lines in the engine bay.
Then the evaporator slides out toward the passenger side and then you can remove and re-install new expansion valve.

Its a pain in the butt job!
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Old Apr 24, 2012 | 04:54 PM
  #3  
liono's Avatar
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From: brooklyn, ny
Originally Posted by invalidalias
its kinda a pain.
first gotta evac lines
remove glove box
remove ac blower box assembly.
Then there is a cover with tons of phillips screws holding the evaporator in place. gotta remove that,
Then disconnect the ac line next to bulk head. one bolt holds that
there are a couple brackets holding the ac lines to the chasis of the car that need to be disconnected.
pull firmly on the ac lines in the engine bay.
Then the evaporator slides out toward the passenger side and then you can remove and re-install new expansion valve.

Its a pain in the butt job!

That's kind of the same as my WRX that I did a few years ago. It wasn't that bad of a job but the position you had to be in made it more of a pain in the butt.
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Old Apr 26, 2012 | 09:55 PM
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From: San Antonio Texas
I am replacing the expansion valve as I write to this thread. I will also be replacing the condersor, drier, and of course the compressor. Yes, it was a pain to replace the expansion valve. You do have to remove the glove compartment, and the right side cover (along with a few other items such as the blower motor resistor, etc) The cover is held on with 8 brass colored philips self tapping screws. I am now reinstaling the gove box and securing everything else before moving on to the compressor.
MY question is: Has anyone ever replace the expansion valve thru the engine compartment by removing the plate with the two high and low pressure lines? This exposes the valve and allows access to the two allen head screws that secures the valve on to the evaporator. The valve would then be removed thru an elongated hole in the firewall. It looks like it could be done and would certainly eliminate a lot of extra work.
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Old May 10, 2012 | 12:46 PM
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bulterier's Avatar
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From: San Antonio Texas
Going to anser my own question. I do not feel it is possible to replace the expansion valve through the firewall because even if you do remove the two screws holding it on to the evaporator, Exp valve is covered with insulation tape that holds it on to the evaporator. Would be difficult to "fish" this through the elongated firewall hole.
So it seems that the only way to replace the exp valve is to remove the glove box, and remove the eight screws holding the evaporator cover and then remove both as a unit for replacement that way.
Probably just as well, since this will allow you to examine and blow out/clean the inside of the evaporator. Then you can install two new "O"rings/ covered with comp. oil; then screw the valve/evaporator back together and reinstall.
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Old May 10, 2012 | 07:42 PM
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tsxnub's Avatar
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Bulterier..Did you flush all a/c lines and the evaporator? I'm going to replace my a/c compressor along with drier, condenser, expansion valve, and discharge hose. But I'm not sure if I should fush or replace all the a/c lines (especially the line with the sight glass).
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Old May 11, 2012 | 09:48 AM
  #7  
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From: San Antonio Texas
Yes, I did, flushed all lines. I was told by the AC folks that the Evaporator and the Condensor should not be flushed with AC Flush Fluid due to all the small capilaries and pockets inside (available at AC retail place) I replaced the condensor with a new one, and ran high pressure air through the evaporator. (I did not experience the black death with my AC unit incidently) I did flush both lines, the one with the site glass is easy to do while on the car. The other one, because of the bends, I removed the auto speed control, by removing the screw that holds the small black box, then the two small bolts that holds the line being careful not to bend line of course. Then I added the flush fluid and blew it out with high pressure air (about 50 lbs.)
If you do not replace the condensor, be sure to replace the drier sock inside of it)
So for around $350. plus the freon cost (18 oz) I was able
completely redo my AC Unit. New Compressor (GDP brand) expansion valve, condensor w/ drier. Don' forget to remove/measure/add the correct amount of oil in your compressor before installing.
My AC unit blows cold! and is very quiet!
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