Firering

I wanted to share an incident that happened to my a/c unit. I was driving with my a/c on and was sitting at a light and my compressor kicked on and noticed that my engine bogged down briefly and then return to normal rpm. Something told me that something happened to my a/c unit. Sure enough I noticed the air wasn't cold anymore. I checked my fuses and tested everything and it was pointing to my a/c clutch coil going out. I've done this replacement before on an 03 Accord so I knew the steps to follow. Something that I noticed that I wasn't sure about was that the outside clutch plate wouldn't turn but I thought that it may not turn by hand so I dismissed this and went ahead and pulled the a/c clutch and coil off and replaced. Getting the pulley off was very tough and had to use a pulley puller. Putting the pulley back on was difficult even after a light sanding of the compressor shaft housing and removing some corrosion from the pulley bearing. Started the car and turned on the a/c and I could hear the clutch kick in but the a/c compressor shaft wasn't spinning and began to smell some clutch burning. Shut everything down and have now realized that I should be able to turn the compressor by hand. It's seem strange that my a/c compressor seized up and also had a a/c clutch coil failure at the same time.

After reading the 04' a/c DIY replacement link, I'm going to replace the compressor and wanted to get some opinions on replacement parts. Labor is free but wow the OEM parts are expensive. I've assembled a parts list and current prices from Delray Acura who I purchased my A/C clutch coil from.

Compressor- 38810-RBB-A01 $471
Condenser- 80110-SEA-013 $315
Dryer/Filter 80101-S9A-013 $51
Clutch 38900-RBB-006 $198
Suction Hose 80310-SEA-G01 $175
Discharge Hose 80315-SEA-013 $118
Evaporator 80211-SEA-G41 $361
Expansion Valve 80221-SEA-G43 $95
O-Ring kit ? $10
Recharge Refrigerant $20

Autozone has a vacuum pump that they loan which I'll use to prep the system prior to recharge.

Total $1784 There's got to be a better solution

I've read that if the compressor fails that the system will be contaminated and that most parts should be replaced as flushing isn't recommend. Does anyone have aftermarket recommendations or other thoughts?

Firering

I'm considering going with UAC Brand parts which will cost me only around $350 instead of OEM $1800. I've seen other brands but curious if any of you have had issues with any of them.

TexasHonda

If inner clutch plate won't turn by hand, you have a problem. I have also wrestled w/ dilemma of what brand replacement. On two occasions (no TSX failure so far) I chose to buy a good (low mileage) used compressor. No easy correct answer to this problem.

good luck

Firering

Update on my project-

Pulled out every A/C component and reinstalled everything this weekend. I decided on going aftermarket and purchased UAC parts and rented/borrow the vacuum pump and hose set from Autozone. The main hose set from UAC didn't have the same bend configuration so I'll be returning it and flushed the hose with proper solvent. Getting the blower motor housing out and installed was a bit tricky but had to because I replaced my Evaporator/Expansion Valve. I drained my old compressor and the oil had metal flakes in it which is why I replaced everything.

Having an issue- Added my oil to the compressor and even turned the clutch to circulate it a few rotations, installed all new o-rings and pulled a vacuum for 45 min. Let it set for 45 minutes and have no leaks--Good news.

Set everything up on my manifold to recharge and even purges the yellow line and attempted to recharge the system. I saw the pressure go up to 90 but never saw anything in the manifold looking glass and my compressor never kicked on. I pulled the pressure pigtail and jumped it and the compressor kicked on but my system still wouldn't charge. The compressor ran for maybe a minute before I disabled the bypass.

I'll pull another vacuum just in case anything got into the system but does anyone have any ideas or suggestions?

TexasHonda

Problem suggests refrigerant not entering system. Manifold valves configured incorrectly. You can initially charge through low side w. engine off until pressure equalizes, Compressor won't kick on unless system pressure is >= perhaps 30 psi (could not find spec).

good luck

Firering

I think the problem was that I was using a can that had a built in trigger and must not have had enough pressure. Just to be safe I pulled a vacuum to ensure that it never charged the system and then used a normal tap with a 12oz can. It took a while for the 12oz to get into the system but after one can I have 41 degrees. The TSX calls for 17.6 to 19 oz but when I connected my 2nd can of 12oz of R134a it wouldn't draw anymore into the system. Should I be concerned? I'll drive the car a few more days and will see if it will take anymore R134a if you recommend.

Saved a bundle doing it myself and wasn't really that complicated.

TexasHonda

You can only static charge so far. After that compresser running pulls low side down to 20-30 psi allowing further charge through low side.

good luck

Firering

Right. I did as you suggested and with the engine off, charged the system and then started the car and the compressor kicked on. I was able to charge the system with 12oz but that was it. It should need 5.6oz more but it wouldn't take it. Any reason?

TexasHonda

If low side is below 40 psi, you can empty the can on any day w/ temps of 50F or more. Make sure high side valve is closed. You charge through low side only while running.

good luck

Lone Starr

Where did you get the clutch kit?
i know my clutch isn't engaging, but I haven't tried the spin test you suggested yet. If it spins freely, I'm hoping to avoid pulling the whole system.
Thanks