06 TSX Electrical issues
10-24-2017, 07:31 PM
#1
06 TSX Electrical issues
Hello all. New to the Acura Forum and I am looking for some assistance. I am having an electrical gremlin problem and it's driving me nuts. Background info on vehicle:
2006 TSX, Auto, Nav, Sunroof. 110xxx miles ish. no mods. Bluetooth module is removed due to failing and not wanting to spend $$$ for a new one. I tried the oven bake method too with no luck. board inspection shows no obvious cap issues.
Way back when, months ago, there would be a random day where the car wouldn't start. No turning over, just clicking and flickering lights. Jump it and starts immediately and runs great for weeks or longer. Time between these issues the past few weeks have been much more frequent. Mostly because I am commuting further now and switched to driving the TSX.
Main issue appears to be no cranking amps. If I put the car on a charger overnight it'll fire up right away in the am. I can stop, for gas and it'll restart. After it sits for more than 10 minutes give or take, it won't start. It'll jump instantly with cables or a jump box. Battery has been swapped and not fixed the issue.
Battery has been tested and tests Good.
Alternator is working too. Tested and Fluked at over 14 V while running.
Any point, while not running, the battery shows 12-12.5 volts.
Today about 5 times on my drive home (75 minutes) the head unit will beep and turn off. It goes through the reboot as though the car was just started and goes back to the message and "OK" screen.
The car does not sputter and no driver instruments show signs of turning off. Just the head unit. The A/C will kick off while it reboots too (assuming because it's all controlled through the head unit). I also see the air bag indicator on the driver cluster (main screen between tach and speedo) flash once every few minutes.
It seems I have a hard short somewhere that is keeping the battery from discharging enough amps to start the vehicle.
When I got home I left the car running and pulled the center console cubby and wiggled all wires to see if the head unit would go off. Nothing. everything is solid.
I have done current draw tests on the whole car, at the battery, and across every fuse and the total draw when off and asleep (doors open and clamps on the switches, door levers manually closed, is around 10mA, usually just under.
I am at a loss of where to look next or what to test. Ignition switch somehow? Any input, advice, or insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
2006 TSX, Auto, Nav, Sunroof. 110xxx miles ish. no mods. Bluetooth module is removed due to failing and not wanting to spend $$$ for a new one. I tried the oven bake method too with no luck. board inspection shows no obvious cap issues.
Way back when, months ago, there would be a random day where the car wouldn't start. No turning over, just clicking and flickering lights. Jump it and starts immediately and runs great for weeks or longer. Time between these issues the past few weeks have been much more frequent. Mostly because I am commuting further now and switched to driving the TSX.
Main issue appears to be no cranking amps. If I put the car on a charger overnight it'll fire up right away in the am. I can stop, for gas and it'll restart. After it sits for more than 10 minutes give or take, it won't start. It'll jump instantly with cables or a jump box. Battery has been swapped and not fixed the issue.
Battery has been tested and tests Good.
Alternator is working too. Tested and Fluked at over 14 V while running.
Any point, while not running, the battery shows 12-12.5 volts.
Today about 5 times on my drive home (75 minutes) the head unit will beep and turn off. It goes through the reboot as though the car was just started and goes back to the message and "OK" screen.
The car does not sputter and no driver instruments show signs of turning off. Just the head unit. The A/C will kick off while it reboots too (assuming because it's all controlled through the head unit). I also see the air bag indicator on the driver cluster (main screen between tach and speedo) flash once every few minutes.
It seems I have a hard short somewhere that is keeping the battery from discharging enough amps to start the vehicle.
When I got home I left the car running and pulled the center console cubby and wiggled all wires to see if the head unit would go off. Nothing. everything is solid.
I have done current draw tests on the whole car, at the battery, and across every fuse and the total draw when off and asleep (doors open and clamps on the switches, door levers manually closed, is around 10mA, usually just under.
I am at a loss of where to look next or what to test. Ignition switch somehow? Any input, advice, or insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
10-25-2017, 10:16 AM
#2
As a first step, check battery voltage after overnight w/o charging. If < 12V either bad battery or key-off drain causing battery to weaken. 10Ma is not a problem.
A corroded battery cable could also cause your problem.
I once had an Acura 2.5 TL that had a bad crankshaft pulley rubber bushing. It would cause the battery to discharge (not driving the alternator) but not cause the battery light to illuminate. It took a long time to discern this problem and shop damaged engine by incorrectly installing pulley to crankshaft. Only ways to ID problem is visual (pulley wobbling) or make a radial mark (white line) across bushing and pulley and see if marks move indicating pulley slipping.
good luck
A corroded battery cable could also cause your problem.
I once had an Acura 2.5 TL that had a bad crankshaft pulley rubber bushing. It would cause the battery to discharge (not driving the alternator) but not cause the battery light to illuminate. It took a long time to discern this problem and shop damaged engine by incorrectly installing pulley to crankshaft. Only ways to ID problem is visual (pulley wobbling) or make a radial mark (white line) across bushing and pulley and see if marks move indicating pulley slipping.
good luck
10-25-2017, 03:50 PM
#3
As a first step, check battery voltage after overnight w/o charging. If < 12V either bad battery or key-off drain causing battery to weaken. 10Ma is not a problem.
A corroded battery cable could also cause your problem.
I once had an Acura 2.5 TL that had a bad crankshaft pulley rubber bushing. It would cause the battery to discharge (not driving the alternator) but not cause the battery light to illuminate. It took a long time to discern this problem and shop damaged engine by incorrectly installing pulley to crankshaft. Only ways to ID problem is visual (pulley wobbling) or make a radial mark (white line) across bushing and pulley and see if marks move indicating pulley slipping.
good luck
A corroded battery cable could also cause your problem.
I once had an Acura 2.5 TL that had a bad crankshaft pulley rubber bushing. It would cause the battery to discharge (not driving the alternator) but not cause the battery light to illuminate. It took a long time to discern this problem and shop damaged engine by incorrectly installing pulley to crankshaft. Only ways to ID problem is visual (pulley wobbling) or make a radial mark (white line) across bushing and pulley and see if marks move indicating pulley slipping.
good luck
Thanks for the response. I pulled the battery negative cable from the post and body mount and took resistance again. It was 0-3 Ω. I held the leads on it and bent it all around and got stable ish readings up to 300 Ω. I replaced it last night, and the battery was at 10.5V, so I jumped it and let it run for about 20 mins. I then went for a 20 minute drive. Saw no head unit issues. When I got home, turned off the car. Battery was at 12.5 volts. Tried to start it did same clicking as before, but this time it tried to crank twice... real slow weak cranks, but a step in the right direction. Put the battery on the charger all night again to top off (trickle charge at 2 amps). started right away this am. Drove to work and shut it off. restarted it about 30 seconds later and it started. The car has been sitting all day and I'm about to leave, so that'll be the first real test. If nothing else, that cable had some input on this issue. Will post back results and info when I get home after attempting to start and from drive home.
Thanks.
10-25-2017, 07:59 PM
#4
Cliff notes version.. didn't start on way home after work. Nav was going ballistic and shutting off a bunch. got home and pulled all fuses and relays associated with the nav/air con. no dice. same thing. When I tried starting, just clicking.
Randomly tried turning the key just far enough to engage and it started right up. tried multiple times of normal start and "limp wrist" starting it and same results. Looks like it's the ignition switch in the column.
:gheywave::gheyw ave::gheywave::g heywave::gheywave:
now to price out a new one and I'm assuming a re-key to go along with it... Will post parts and findings back in here so as to potentially help another member/lurker in the future.
tl;dr If you have similar symptoms, try limp wristing the key to start
Randomly tried turning the key just far enough to engage and it started right up. tried multiple times of normal start and "limp wrist" starting it and same results. Looks like it's the ignition switch in the column.
:gheywave::gheyw ave::gheywave::g heywave::gheywave:now to price out a new one and I'm assuming a re-key to go along with it... Will post parts and findings back in here so as to potentially help another member/lurker in the future.
tl;dr If you have similar symptoms, try limp wristing the key to start
10-25-2017, 10:12 PM
#5
Just bought and installed this:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/i...gnition+switch
was on hand and available, but it did the trick. only a few screws and about 30 mins. And only 1 Jack and Coke worth of work
Just wanted to fully update this for future reference. Knowing the problem now, the answer is already on the forum and searching works, but it gives so many random indications of failure. Hindsight is 20/20
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/i...gnition+switch
was on hand and available, but it did the trick. only a few screws and about 30 mins. And only 1 Jack and Coke worth of work
Just wanted to fully update this for future reference. Knowing the problem now, the answer is already on the forum and searching works, but it gives so many random indications of failure. Hindsight is 20/20
The following users liked this post:
Jottle (10-26-2017)
10-26-2017, 01:58 PM
#6
Super useful. Thanks for posting! 06' here with about the same mileage, and maybe 4-5 times during my ownership I've seen these exact same issues out of the blue (no crank but dashboard lights flashing). I just let the car sit for 5 minutes and it starts up without issue. So I'm wondering if this will become more common as I go on as well. Will bookmark just in case.