New here: '06 TSX | 6M | PWP | Ebony - Pittsburgh
04-15-2014, 09:15 AM
#128
Instructor
Thread Starter
Getting my LCAs replaced Friday with Moog units. Hopefully they improve something for me. Steering does seem a tad sloppy
Also, when braking while downshifting at higher speeds there's a pulsating sensation in the brake pedal... But stops when I shift into neutral and just use the brakes. So it's not the rotors. I'm assuming it's the LCAs being torqued on... So hopefully that's cleared up too.
Also, when braking while downshifting at higher speeds there's a pulsating sensation in the brake pedal... But stops when I shift into neutral and just use the brakes. So it's not the rotors. I'm assuming it's the LCAs being torqued on... So hopefully that's cleared up too.
04-18-2014, 08:33 PM
#129
Instructor
Thread Starter
05-01-2014, 11:45 AM
#131
Instructor
Thread Starter
So, I came to the conclusion that the pulsating at high speed braking is indeed pads deposits buidling up on the rotors... did a fair amount of research but this link sold me: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ay-speeds.html
So this morning I bedded my pads in:
-drove normal stop-and-go for ~10 min.
-then did about (6) hard stops from 60-15mph
-then drove without touching the brakes or coming to a dead stop for ~10 min.
Probably at the third or forth I could really tell the difference.
So this morning I bedded my pads in:
-drove normal stop-and-go for ~10 min.
-then did about (6) hard stops from 60-15mph
-then drove without touching the brakes or coming to a dead stop for ~10 min.
Probably at the third or forth I could really tell the difference.
05-15-2014, 08:21 AM
#139
Instructor
Thread Starter
Well last night on the way home... felt the pulsations again, at highway speeds, even with the new Honda front pads
So pulled the wheel and pads off... spiraling was still on the rotor. :bat:
Per Centric:
The obvious question now is "is there a "cure" for discs with uneven friction material deposits?" The answer is a conditional yes. If the vibration has just started, the chances are that the temperature has never reached the point where cementite begins to form. In this case, simply fitting a set of good "semi-metallic" pads and using them hard (after bedding) may well remove the deposits and restore the system to normal operation but with upgraded pads. If only a small amount of material has been transferred i.e. if the vibration is just starting, vigorous scrubbing with garnet paper may remove the deposit. As many deposits are not visible, scrub the entire friction surfaces thoroughly. Do not use regular sand paper or emery cloth as the aluminum oxide abrasive material will permeate the cast iron surface and make the condition worse. Do not bead blast or sand blast the discs for the same reason.
The only fix for extensive uneven deposits involves dismounting the discs and having them Blanchard ground - not expensive, but inconvenient at best. A newly ground disc will require the same sort of bedding in process as a new disc. The trouble with this procedure is that if the grinding does not remove all of the cementite inclusions, as the disc wears the hard cementite will stand proud of the relatively soft disc and the thermal spiral starts over again. Unfortunately, the cementite is invisible to the naked eye.Taking time to properly bed your braking system pays big dividends but, as with most sins, a repeat of the behavior that caused the trouble will bring it right back.
http://www.centricparts.com/files/Ce...ake%20Disc.pdf
...there for...new Centric rotors are arriving tomorrow from TireRack for the front... tonight I'm inspecting the rear, to determine if the rears are needed, will be putting on new Honda pads to be safe, regardless :pray:
So pulled the wheel and pads off... spiraling was still on the rotor. :bat:
Per Centric:
The obvious question now is "is there a "cure" for discs with uneven friction material deposits?" The answer is a conditional yes. If the vibration has just started, the chances are that the temperature has never reached the point where cementite begins to form. In this case, simply fitting a set of good "semi-metallic" pads and using them hard (after bedding) may well remove the deposits and restore the system to normal operation but with upgraded pads. If only a small amount of material has been transferred i.e. if the vibration is just starting, vigorous scrubbing with garnet paper may remove the deposit. As many deposits are not visible, scrub the entire friction surfaces thoroughly. Do not use regular sand paper or emery cloth as the aluminum oxide abrasive material will permeate the cast iron surface and make the condition worse. Do not bead blast or sand blast the discs for the same reason.
The only fix for extensive uneven deposits involves dismounting the discs and having them Blanchard ground - not expensive, but inconvenient at best. A newly ground disc will require the same sort of bedding in process as a new disc. The trouble with this procedure is that if the grinding does not remove all of the cementite inclusions, as the disc wears the hard cementite will stand proud of the relatively soft disc and the thermal spiral starts over again. Unfortunately, the cementite is invisible to the naked eye.Taking time to properly bed your braking system pays big dividends but, as with most sins, a repeat of the behavior that caused the trouble will bring it right back.
http://www.centricparts.com/files/Ce...ake%20Disc.pdf
...there for...new Centric rotors are arriving tomorrow from TireRack for the front... tonight I'm inspecting the rear, to determine if the rears are needed, will be putting on new Honda pads to be safe, regardless :pray:
05-18-2014, 07:46 AM
#141
I've noticed a fair amount of weights on the front wheel, this might indicate a problem with either wheel or tire. Remember, you always want the front wheels to have the least amount of weights on them. Try putting this wheel on the back and see if it helps.
06-18-2014, 06:18 PM
#145
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Love it 
to specialized...innovate or die, baby!
06-25-2014, 10:01 AM
#153
Instructor
Thread Starter
Compared to other brands, back in 2010, when I bought it new... it was a good value at $1200 compared to other brands, considering the drivetrain/brakes.
I was always tinkering with something on the tsx. My passenger axle was letting go too, outer joint, so I decided against a new OEM unit... then another high dollar item letting go...
Got blue-book on the trade. Good deal on the truck. Traded/sold my rpf1's to my buddy... so it all worked out. Truck is way more useful
I was always tinkering with something on the tsx. My passenger axle was letting go too, outer joint, so I decided against a new OEM unit... then another high dollar item letting go...
Got blue-book on the trade. Good deal on the truck. Traded/sold my rpf1's to my buddy... so it all worked out. Truck is way more useful
06-25-2014, 10:08 AM
#154
No doubt...Tacoma is fantastic. Yeah, always tough to keep up with high dollar upkeep items as they start piling up. I try and hit em as they come so nothing hurts too badly all at once.
I guess it depends on the deal you got...not bad but I was implying they're great, but you pay for it. I ended up paying about 40% of retail on mine used after a couple of years.
I guess it depends on the deal you got...not bad but I was implying they're great, but you pay for it. I ended up paying about 40% of retail on mine used after a couple of years.
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