heatsheild gasket too

 

If he had any credibility at all, it's been long gone when he posted the same BS in the other thread. No one will take him seriously.

 

holy crap this guy is a loser. why post some bs like that??

 

haha did you make this in microsoft paint?

 

I guess I haven't been paying attention much lately.

 

oh, no wonder

 

quick question, if I get my ecu reflashed by hondata, would I be able to reflash it back to stock setting in case things go south? or for warranty related issues? do I have to send it back to them again? free of charge if any?

 

Wrong thread.

Search on the Hondata reflash and you will find all the answers that you seek.

 

I already have a thread going (click here to view it), but for the sake of consolidation I figured I'd post here as well...

Here are the first dyno results for a S/Ced 2006 6MT. My current engine mods are:

CT Supercharger
CT Icebox
CT Header
RT Cat
CT exhaust

The first dyno sheet is showing STD correction and smoothing of 5:



The second dyno sheet is showing uncorrected and smoothing of 0 (which means this is what I actually put down on the dyno):



I was expecting more, but I'm happy with the results - in particular, the flat torque curve .

 

^ nice numbers however i would get yoru A/F corrected in those higher spots to get it closer to 12.5:1. Just to be on the safe side.

 

Why would you say I'd want to be closer to 12.5:1? I actually think that's already a bit too high for an FI application. If anything, I'd actually want the midrange ratios to drop down to 11.75-12:1.

 

Sorry as I haven't reasearched into what managment the CT S/C uses? I assume its the hondata s/c reflash? Your a/f are pretty lean, Id be afraid of a bad tank of gas, or burning up a piston...I wonder if the management was developed on a stock motor with no I/H/E? Adding those would deffinitly lean out the tune..

 

Yes, unfortunately engine management is accomplished via a Hondata S/C-specific reflash and a piggyback module that prevents the ECU from seeing boost. This means that I can't change the parameters in my current setup because everything is pre-tuned.

 

I am a big fan of getting the most MPG I can but being safe. Alot of guys run richer to prevent detonation etc and to place it "safe". However the best combustion or burn is at 12.5:1 and I was being conservative. At any rate you have some tuning to do.

 

did you run your car at the track yet?

 

wow, those gains are amazing....

 

i'm set to dyno for the first time this sunday at the crown honda meet in charlotte and need your input:

1) any prep work required of me?
2) as far as results go, i guess i need to know the type of dyno i'm rolling on and whether or not my results have been sae corrected?
3) anything else i should be aware of?

my pr2 gaskets, spacer, and img will be installed on saturday afternoon with the help of fellow AZiner, chill_dog. i'm hoping to reduce heatsoak and get consistant numbers from the 3 runs (only $40)!

thanks,
vinny

 

Wow, $40 for 3 pulls is a great deal!

No prep work necessary. Just make sure the guy performing the dyno runs remembers to turn off VSA, otherwise it won't work (VSA prohibits acceleration if the rear wheels aren't spinning).

What numbers are you hoping to hit?

 

There are certain things to check prior to strapping down on the dyno.

Prep works
1. check oil level, change oil and filter if necessary.
2. fill the tank with premium fuel
3. check tire pressure as it affects tire/roller contact (depending on type of dyno)
4. bring an obd2 scan tool if possible to monitor intake air temp, coolant temp to ensure each run is tested under the same condition.
5. bring a floppy or usb drive to store the final run files
6. arrive at the dyno early to allow time to cool down before the runs (heat soak affects the actual results

On the dyno
1. use wideband o2 hookup
2. don't touch the steering wheel during the runs!!!
3. ask the operator to start recording the runs at very low rpm ~ 2000 and use sae correction.
4. turn off VSA
5. let the engine rev to max redline
6. use the obd2 info to monitor cool down in between runs
7. ask for the dyno run files in additon to the printout when done

 

JTso to the rescue! thanks for the info. one last question:

since i have an auto, should i be in sport shift mode? if so, what gear(s)?

 

don't know exactly, my header and cat need to be replaced so that might screw things up a bit. if i get near 200whp w/o hondata i'll be extremely happy this auto tranny might just let me down though

 

3rd gear for AT

 

^ i thought so. thanks again for your input, it's ALWAYS appreciated

 

just got back from the dyno. power= 234.50, torque= 175.88

done on the same dynojet i went to last time. SAE Smoothing 5. 91.78 degrees. good enough for me

shit reading the above comments i noticed you guys said to turn off the vsa. frick what if i didn't?

 

^^
You will know it if VSA was on during the runs, as the car would feel like hopping on the roller.

 

i wasn't behind the wheel. vsa off means pushing the button right? and then that lightning bolt thingy pops up?

 

 

hmm... for some reason the files that the shop gave me doesn't show the torque or air/fuel. all i can see is the power. anyone know what's wrong with this?

 

your assumption is correct

 

Is this the stock charger?? I heard that your running the full Mugen Exhaust System? Auto? What are your complete mods?

 

then in that case, my vsa was on. does it really make a difference??

 

yeah it's the comptech charger. i'm a 6 speed with Mugen intake, Mugen Header, Mugen cat, Mugen exhaust.

 

a big thanks to JTso for figuring out this graph for me lol pulls 4&6 were done in 3rd and pull 5 was done in 4th.

 

Nice numbers, man

Can you rerun the dyno graphs for Uncorrected, Smoothing 0? I'm curious to see what you actually put out on the dyno @ 91F. It's been 75-85F (93F today) and I can feel some (expected) power loss in the warmer weather.

 

Btw, I noticed the numbers look a bit low compared to what I hit (15-20whp/10-15wtq).

Beyond the Mugen vs Comptech part difference, did you check how much boost you're getting? It could be that you're not at the 5-6psi you're supposed to be getting.

 

your vsa should've been off (orange light on dash is lit up). that may very well have been the issue

 

just got back from the charlotte meet in blistering heat (98F). did 3 dyno runs and hit 186 hp (they didn't provide tq figures) on my best run. the 3 runs were conducted within a span of 2 min so heat soak may very well have been an issue too. those numbers aren't bad considering i've got an auto, need new header and cat, and still haven't reflashed yet. so maybe 200whp is possible (check my sig for all mods). i'll scan the dyno from work on monday and post. my buddy chris (coolcarguy) has a vid of the 3 runs but i don't know how to post since it's over 100mb, anybody have any suggestions? EVERBODY was commenting on how great the exhaust note was i was surpised myself how unraspy and mean the growl was at wot from outside the car!

 

$40 for 3 runs, i guess you get what you pay for: they only gave me a print out of my best run (#2) and it only shows hp, no tq numbers. here you go:

 

^^186, that's pretty good. that resolves to about 218 at the crank. It would have been pretty neat to see what you've gained throughout the torque curve.

Is this calculated by the newer SAE standard or the old?

 

^ the hell if i know! i was toooo damn hot to even think to ask that. seriously, it was torture out there. i'll dyno again once my new header, cat, p2r img, and hondata have been installed. e.t.a. about 2 months